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Need help with 727 torqueflite transmission problems...

42K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  bremereric 
#1 ·
I have a 727 tranny that a buddy of a buddy built for me and I was his assistent...we put in a bolt in roller sprag unit and a B&M shift kit and clutch kit....I finally got my engine running and on the first cruise when it shift to 3rd gear it started making a terrible grinding noise...I pulled over and found the noise to be coming from the tranny...oh well I went slow and made it home...the noise stopped before I got home....my kickdown lever is held forward by a spring at the bottom and the Lokar setup up top......





got any clues please post them...my speedometer is not working also...the gear, cable and head are all good...thanks in advance

BBD
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Got my new transmission being built by Rick with A&A transmssions...he explained a lot of details to me that I was unaware of...especially what would trash your roller sprag unit...on my setup he told me to manually shift into first gear to lock the band and start my burn out and shift to second...this keeps it off of the roller sprag...he also said the Lokar stuff was made for Chevy's and not Mopars...I read through Bouchellon's cable kickdown instructions and will check my cable travel tonight..they said it should be between 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" total travel from idle to WOT...mine was shifting in auto from first to second gear when I was driving around the neighborhood..when I got to about 40 mph it shifted into 3rd then trashed the 3rd gear..
 
#4 ·
Got my invoice and bill of lading from Rick with A&A Transmissions today
BBDBBDBBD

Let me start by thanking Rick Allison for an expedited tranny build with great parts..The couple of reasons I picked them to build it...I have always heard great things about them..I have bought several parts from them before and they were great...he only builds Mopar parts and transmissions and has been doing it for 30 years..others like Coan, Turbo Action and TCI builds everyone's trannys...

Now let me tell what I got for my money...I could have gotten one built here locally for $1,200 to $1,600...his was $1,745 to me...this is what it included...

Big block case and tailshaft, glass beaded and cleaned, 12 roller bolt in sprag unit, polished rear support, 5400 RPM Hemi governor, billet low and rev servo kit, modified 2nd gear servo, 4.2 ratio shift lever, heavy duty band strut, Kevlar bands, red friction clutches, new steels, new bushings and washers, long boot rear seal, four pin stock aluminum front and rear planetaries, reconditioned sungear and sunshell, reconditioned front pump body with babbit front pump bushing, reconditioned front pump support, new inner Mopar pump gear with reconditioned outer gear, reconditioned high gear stock drum, A&A modified valve body 72770-4L with gold bolt set, new molded gasket and Dacron large filter, he aslo gave me new gasket and seals for speedo and NSS, it would have included a new pan but I ready have their deep pan and extension.​
 
#5 · (Edited)
Got the tranny today....took it home on my lunch hour and took it out of the crate...looks very nice and clean...very professional looking...



 
#7 ·
I don't do this very often but I decided to switch gears and start on the tranny....

I decided to stop with the radiator and HHR fan setup right now and concentrate on the tranny this week..it is my goal to have it swapped out before this Saturday and the new one back in at 100% before vacation..we leave this comming up Sunday and I will finish the fan and radiator when I return....I removed the tranny pan tonight and found lots of metal shavings in the bottom...it look like it came from the planetary gears..I cleaned up everything and transferred it to the new tranny...got one side of the exhaust out of the way and will continue with the removal tomorrow evening...I am off on Friday so I have all day to work on it....

see how clean and pretty it looks inside..right hand bottom corner is where the 4.2 ration shift lever is...



the billet extension and filter installed.....



440 Sources deep chrome pan....hecho en china...magnet on drain plug and A&A's molded gasket...



kickdown lever....shift lever and NSS installed.....

 
#9 ·
i hope you miss- typed in the 1st post.

Never start your burnout in 1st gear with a 727.

always start in 2nd.


unless i missed something in this post....
Nope I even had to sign a paper stating that and the dangers and liabilty of the front drum coming apart...my valve body is an automatic shifting low band apply....if you are running a manual forward or reverse valve body this doesn't apply...he asured me that when you manual shift to 1st you are applying the low band so that you are not totally on the roller sprag....doing it in second is totally on the roller sprag and you can damage it...
 
#14 ·
Does anyone know the correct method to flush out a torque convertor or should I take it to a tranny shop and trust them to do it...?
 
#16 ·
GOOD TIMES!!!!! I do 1-2 burnouts, kaboom. My dad has done 1-2 burnouts for 15 years, never one problem. Depends on how lucky you're feeling and how much money you got. He's got extra goodies in his transmission from mine.

A kevlar blanket helps out too! I just do a 2nd gear power brake now.




 
#19 · (Edited)
GOOD TIMES!!!!! I do 1-2 burnouts, kaboom. My dad has done 1-2 burnouts for 15 years, never one problem. Depends on how lucky you're feeling and how much money you got. He's got extra goodies in his transmission from mine.

A kevlar blanket helps out too! I just do a 2nd gear power brake now.




What blew up..because the front steel drum still seems to be intact? remember their are two ways to trash your roller sprag unit...brake a u-joint, driveshaft breaks or something breaks in your rear end...then you fix that and try it again without fixing the broken sprag...ka boom there goes your factory front steel drum...the other is a full on sprag second gear burnout...thats info from Rick Allison with A&A trannys
 
#18 ·
:banghead

I am trashing the factory lines and have a B&M cooler with an electric fan...
 
#20 ·
These are the metal shavings that I found in the pan and filter......

 
#21 ·
I broke the spider gears in the rear end, didn't think THAT would cause transmission failure. you break ANYTHING On the rear, check the trans out.

The rear sprag let go and caused the front drum to blow. Everything was toast asides from the tailshaft housing.

It was just a stock 727 behind a 14 second 340. I was in first gear getting ready to shift to 2nd, and kaboom. 3000 RPM. You take the engine RPM and multiply by 2.2 and you get the RPM that front drum blew at. Like a hand gernade.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I broke the spider gears in the rear end, didn't think THAT would cause transmission failure. you break ANYTHING On the rear, check the trans out.

The rear sprag let go and caused the front drum to blow. Everything was toast asides from the tailshaft housing.

It was just a stock 727 behind a 14 second 340. I was in first gear getting ready to shift to 2nd, and kaboom. 3000 RPM. You take the engine RPM and multiply by 2.2 and you get the RPM that front drum blew at. Like a hand gernade.
That confirms the info I typed up...you break something rear of the tranny...you better tear it apart and check the roller sprag...just like Rick said...I run a 3 1/2" driveshaft with 1350 u-joints at both ends...Yukon 335 gears with an Auburn posi unit....and Yukon axles with green bearings
 
#23 ·
Yes, if you ever break something in the driveline / rear end, you have a 50/50 chance: 50% chance it'll be fine, 50% chance it'll blow. My dad broke the ring gear on his 4:10 locker a couple years ago, pulled the trans out and inspected, nothing wrong with it.

you should hold up pretty well though with your rear end. It's only a matter of time before i break an axle. Should probably get on ordering those dutchmens
 
#24 · (Edited)
Need some help please

:banghead I need some help on where I can mount this little combo other than in front or behind the radiator...



It's about 12" by 10"
 
#26 ·
Found a place to mount my tranny cooler....

Last post until next Sunday...On vacation tomorrow with wifey and two girls...
Wish me luck as I spend the whole next week with wife and two daughters on vacation...I removed a brace that ran from one of the front bumper brackets and the front drivers fender...I made a bracket out of the left over aluminum angle and mounted the trans cooler....take a look..



it is very solid with the additional bracket I added to the top...here goes some plumbing I did for the tranny cooler lines comming out of the tranny...



 
#27 ·
Done with tranny cooler and ready for next step

O0 I'm fricken back....done with the tranny and cooler now......back from long week with wife and daughters....OMG lolcheck it out...ran 3/8" trans cooler lines to tranny and with heat DEI sleaves where it got close to the exhaust system.....brrrrrt



 
#28 ·
I am not 100% sure but that Lokar kickdown tried to eat up my new transmission

OMG...almost ruined another tranny....backed out of the garage and heard a weird scrapping noise...oh well the oil pan dragged at the lip of the garage no biggy....putted around a couple of blocks with no problems then heard that awfull noise...stopped right away and downshifted into second gear...pulled off the Lokar kickdown and drove it again...it shifted fine just like Rick Allison said it would without that Chevy Lokar kickdown....I did loose my speedo again and I have already shot him an e-mail....ran a little warmer than I thought it would...hearing some pinging when hammering on the throttle...back off on the timing...will be taking that Lokar shit off my car and already looking at the Bouchallon stuff....

It's off...



 
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