Hydraulic Lifter adjustment
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Thread: Hydraulic Lifter adjustment

  1. #1
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Hydraulic Lifter adjustment

    I got the cuda fired on the weekend after the engine being out for almost a year. I had corrected a problem where the rockers were hitting the valve cover baffles slightly, and I thought that would correct some of my valve train noise. It didn't. I have a comp hydraulic roller camshaft and Crane Gold rockers. I am going to reset the adjustment, again, to try and quiet it down.

    Now my question. All of the articles I read say to start at zero lash and tighten the adjuster 1/2 turn. They all seem to refer to Chevy style adjusting nuts. I am wondering if you need to turn the adjusters more on our style adjusters, to get the same preload. My theory is that because of the finer threads on the adjusters it may take more turns to depress the plunger the same amount. Also if the chevy style nut is pulling down in the center of the rocker is it depresing the plunger 1.5 times as much? (multiplied by the rocker arm ratio). I was thinking I should see how many turns it takes to bottom the plunger and adjust 1/2 that much so it is in the middle of it's travel.

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  3. #2
    BBD GOD
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    Smile

    go one turn if you feel better. the tiny bit of preload is to keep them from pumping up too much and holding the valve off the seat too long, the less the better. setting your preload in the middle of the plunger travel is just asking for trouble.
    "bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes)

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    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bOb shingler View Post
    go one turn if you feel better. the tiny bit of preload is to keep them from pumping up too much and holding the valve off the seat too long, the less the better. setting your preload in the middle of the plunger travel is just asking for trouble.
    That's the kind of feedback I am trying to get. I may have a full turn on them already, but they are still noisier than most solid lifters. Just wondering how much more preload I can use to see if it quiets things down before I start to have problems.

  5. #4
    Full Member my64dart's Avatar
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    Hi,
    I think your over thinking the adjustment procedure. If you adjust them to tight, your gonna damage something. Adjust them as recommended & forget there even there. Mine are set about a 1/2 turn past zero lash measured from the base of the cam lobe. My lifters were noisey too. I needed a heavier weight oil.
    Good Luck
    Jim
    383 stroked to 432c.i. / 440Source Stroker / Edelbrock RPM heads / 750 Holley / Torker Intake / Lunati VooDoo cam / Dynamic 9.5 converter / Cope Racing Trans / 3:55's with a suregrip /I'm Always Working On Something

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    Senior Member d55dave's Avatar
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    Mine are set at 3/4 turn past zero lash - on a hydraulic roller. It is hard to feel zero lash as you may already have the lifter preloaded but can still turn or move the pushrod because the lifter is not pumped up (no oil pressure, engine not running). I always do mine visually - as was stated ensure you are on the base circle, adjust until you see the plunger in the lifter JUST start to be pushed away from the retainer, go 1/2 to 3/4 turn more and you are done.

    You should have relatively little valve noise when you are done. Perhaps you have a bad lifter or two that are not pumping up? How big is the cam, are you running the correct roller cam valve springs??

    David
    I'd rather die while I'm living than live while I'm dead

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    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d55dave View Post
    Mine are set at 3/4 turn past zero lash - on a hydraulic roller. It is hard to feel zero lash as you may already have the lifter preloaded but can still turn or move the pushrod because the lifter is not pumped up (no oil pressure, engine not running). I always do mine visually - as was stated ensure you are on the base circle, adjust until you see the plunger in the lifter JUST start to be pushed away from the retainer, go 1/2 to 3/4 turn more and you are done.

    You should have relatively little valve noise when you are done. Perhaps you have a bad lifter or two that are not pumping up? How big is the cam, are you running the correct roller cam valve springs??

    David
    Dave You're right about it being hard to feel zero lash, it's also pretty hard to see the plunger move. The cam is a 540 lift hydraulic roller, and the springs have the recommended pressure. I set the preload once, and the guys at the engine shop checked it also, and it has always been noisey. I had put it down to the Crane Golds and decided to live with it. The engine was out for almost a year, and now that I hear it again it is really bugging me. I thought I would try to adjust it once more before I start replacing stuff.

    Dave

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    Full Member 1DART440's Avatar
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    Hi Dave,
    I have heard that the Crane Golds make noise. I have been driving my car a lot and the noise is getting to me. I almost feel like pulling the motor and changing to the old hydraulic P shaft cam that I had in the early 80s. Stamped rockers, no adjustment, no noise.
    I don't know what the solution is....
    Terry
    69 Dart / 512 / RPM heads / XE284 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI soon!

  9. #8
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1DART440 View Post
    Hi Dave,
    I have heard that the Crane Golds make noise. I have been driving my car a lot and the noise is getting to me. I almost feel like pulling the motor and changing to the old hydraulic P shaft cam that I had in the early 80s. Stamped rockers, no adjustment, no noise.
    I don't know what the solution is....
    Terry
    Hi Terry I hope to be driving mine again soon, but the noise is worse than I remember. I am tempted to try and find a different set of rockers (perhaps the comp stainless ones) if they would be quieter. I will probably start another thread to get opinions on rocker arms before I change anything.

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    I had the crane gold rockers on my 440 and the geometry was terrible, switched to Hughes rocker there almost perfect just needed a little shimming.
    I have not had it running yet so I don't know if they make much noise.

  11. #10
    Full Member 1DART440's Avatar
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    Dave,
    I also heard from some local guys that the ductile iron rockers are the best for the least noise. I think the roller tips are the problem. I was curious to know, are you running the spring spacer or solid spacers between?
    Terry
    69 Dart / 512 / RPM heads / XE284 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI soon!

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    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by william View Post
    I had the crane gold rockers on my 440 and the geometry was terrible, switched to Hughes rocker there almost perfect just needed a little shimming.
    I have not had it running yet so I don't know if they make much noise.
    I had figured out the geometry on mine, and calculated the pushrod length, and nothing was close. I looked in the Crane catalogue and they had an off the shelf pushrod that was listed for their hydraulic roller lifters. I figured since I was using their lifters and rockers they must be right. They were about 1/8 short of my calculation, and once I installed them they are almost exactly that much too short. If I buy new pushrods, I will buy new rockers as well.

  13. #12
    Newb demon666's Avatar
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    Hughes rockers and pushrods

    Don't post here much, mostly read, but figured you might be interested in my resent Hughes roller rocker installation. She's a 383 and after checking the geometry found both banks to be dead nuts on. Only had to shim 2 rockers for side movement and with the pushrods adjusted at 1 turn from first contact everythings quiet as a mouse, no clicking or rattling. Once I had the pushrod length dimension to Dave at Hughes they shipped the assembled rods the next day. Excellent service.
    Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by qkcuda View Post
    I had figured out the geometry on mine, and calculated the pushrod length, and nothing was close. I looked in the Crane catalogue and they had an off the shelf pushrod that was listed for their hydraulic roller lifters. I figured since I was using their lifters and rockers they must be right. They were about 1/8 short of my calculation, and once I installed them they are almost exactly that much too short. If I buy new pushrods, I will buy new rockers as well.
    Just another 2 cents.. I run the comp rockers.. They are quiet, but I did need to size the push rods. With the recomended push rods one of the rods jumped out of the cup on me.. Now all works well though and I havent messed with them in a year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1DART440 View Post
    Hi Dave,
    I have heard that the Crane Golds make noise. I have been driving my car a lot and the noise is getting to me. I almost feel like pulling the motor and changing to the old hydraulic P shaft cam that I had in the early 80s. Stamped rockers, no adjustment, no noise.
    I don't know what the solution is....
    Terry
    Dave, my Crane Golds were loud and noisy aswell, until they broke and then I upgraded to the Harland Sharps. Hydraulic lifter preload was one reason why I went to a solid. Andrew
    [img]

  16. #15
    BBD LEGEND qkcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpatel View Post
    Dave, my Crane Golds were loud and noisy aswell, until they broke and then I upgraded to the Harland Sharps. Hydraulic lifter preload was one reason why I went to a solid. Andrew
    Hey Andrew, I started another post about stainless steel rockers, and I am considering switching over this winter.
    Dave

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