I need to have a driveline built, looking for measurements and advice

[Fabbr]

I just picked up my 727 from an old friend who owns and operates a local transmission shop, the next steps i need to complete to get my 67 dart on the road is base/clear on the engine bay(factory turbine bronze) dropping the warmed over 400 and 727 in via a scumacher motor mount kit, coming up with the driveline measurements, i will be starting from scratch, i need to install the motor and tranny to setup my pinion angle, will have an adjustable snubber. The rear is a 489 case 8.75 out of a 72new yorker narrowed 17"(springs relocated) detroit true trac and 3.91 gears, new stock 'hemi leaf springs lowered 1" via relocation boxes. I know there are a lot of guys here who have had custom drivelines built and im looking for input, the transmission is a long tailshaft from a 72 newport. Any recommendations? Or is it measure twice cut once? If so where do i start? This will be a temp driver to weed out any bugs and a 470 stroker soon to come, any advice would be huge! Thanks in advance and thank you to those who have guided me this far along..
...and remember chevrolet stands for; Cracked Heads Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time...

[bOb shingler]

some one will have the measurements for you or you can install engine and trans and take your own measurement. it's taken from the center of the rear u-joint to the rear edge of the tailshaft minus 3 1/2". that will be the centerline distance between the two u-joints. pinion angle is set once the driveshaft is in the hotrod.

[Supershafts]

Put it altogether and then measure from the tip of the output shaft to center of joint on the end yoke, and then take that to your local driveline shop along with the seal to center of joint.
Do not do as above since there is NO way knowing that the slip you are going to use is DEFINITELY going to need 3.5" off. . . . . unless you want to pay twice

If you have the trans slip yoke then take that and bottom it out in the trans and measure center of joint to center of joint and take that to your local driveline shop and make sure and tell them the slip was bottomed out and they will make the appropriate dimensions for the shaft.

Also let them know the rear joint series and the hp, weight, trans, rear gear and expected highest rpm you expect to see.

[d55dave]

as above, but also make sure the rear suspension is loaded up (car on the wheels) when measuring. I have done a few - slide the slip yoke in all the way, pull it back out 1", then with the u joint bores horizontal on the slip yoke and differential, and suspension at ride height, measure center to center of the u joints, and you have your measurement.

[72BBSwinger]

I have the one out of my 72 BB Dart 8 3/4. Its a stocker with 7260s if you want it let me know.

[moparal]

I believe I have one out of a 72 bb dart also that I can measure right away if needed. I won't be using it since I have a 2spd pwr glide in my 68. I have to look, but I believe mine is a chrome molly shaft with 7290 joints in it. It was with a 440-727-8 3/4 also. It was in a friend of mines car, but I built him a dana and he had a shorter shaft built

[blue44067]

as above, but also make sure the rear suspension is loaded up (car on the wheels) when measuring. I have done a few - slide the slip yoke in all the way, pull it back out 1", then with the u joint bores horizontal on the slip yoke and differential, and suspension at ride height, measure center to center of the u joints, and you have your measurement.

That's how I measured mine , no problems at all...only had to do it once. I had the shop shorten a '69 300 shaft and used a conversion u -joint at the back, it came to under $150

[moparal]

I just measured this new shaft I have. It is like 48 1/2 center to center of the joints. This shaft is a new custom made, with new joints, all tight, and balanced

[bOb shingler]

Put it altogether and then measure from the tip of the output shaft to center of joint on the end yoke, and then take that to your local driveline shop along with the seal to center of joint.
Do not do as above since there is NO way knowing that the slip you are going to use is DEFINITELY going to need 3.5" off. . . . . unless you want to pay twice

If you have the trans slip yoke then take that and bottom it out in the trans and measure center of joint to center of joint and take that to your local driveline shop and make sure and tell them the slip was bottomed out and they will make the appropriate dimensions for the shaft.

Also let them know the rear joint series and the hp, weight, trans, rear gear and expected highest rpm you expect to see.

with all due repect what i typed in the my first post is taken right out of the mopar performance manual but maybe like you said there is different length slip yokes. my bad.

[Supershafts]

There are many different length slip yokes and some mopars will send that shaft right into the back of the trans HARD when they launch.... I have seen thousands of different style slips many are 6" , 7", 8" even longer.
The section from joint to GH area are all different

[shocktrauma]

I just measured this new shaft I have. It is like 48 1/2 center to center of the joints. This shaft is a new custom made, with new joints, all tight, and balanced

Is this a chrome moly driveshaft, and how much do you want for it ?

[Supershafts]

Is this a chrome moly driveshaft, and how much do you want for it ?

Get AL, not CM you'll go faster with Al