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Topic: Welding Sheetmetal? (Read 1996 times)
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b569rr
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I've used 20 CFH on paper thin metal with success. I tend to lean towards 30 on structural uphill weaves.  Tom
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DJVCuda
Full Member
 
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Posts: 311
BigBlockDart.Com
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If abodyjoe and I can do it... anyone can.... 
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DartAttack
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Ok , I finally took some pics of my welding attempts on my trunk floor and extensions. As you can see the extension does not make it down to the bottom of the quarterpanel lip.Is the Extension flawed? I dont have the quarterpanel permanently on its, just on with magnets, but the bodylines all match but the extension does not. If anyone here can send a pic of a stock or replacement in place it should help.
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BB_cuda
Jr. Member

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Posts: 23
BigBlockDart.Com
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I found a brushable version of the same rattle can weld through primer. It lasts a lot longer and was 1/2 the price. I got it at a local PPG dealer. ITS SEM 39786 and I paid about $10 for the 8 oz. resealable can. The rattle can cost $18.95 from the same place and ran out quick and its hard to control to paint just the seam. Brushable is definitely the way to go. I have been using the 20 setting on my regulator as I'm always in the garage. I use the electric dryer plug too for my 220 Hobart. I just made an extension cord with the dryer wierd plug on one end and a standard box with straight plug receptacle on the other end. Doing it this way gives you flexibility. You have to keep in mind in using the welder elsewhere besides yourown house. A friend wants me to weld on his mustang so I will use his dryer plug at his house with my adapter cord. Now using the 0.023" might solve my problems. I have been using 0.030" and having some burn through problems. I will go get a 2# reel and give her a try on scrap pieces. Hope that was all that was wrong. I have the lucky fortune of finding factory quarters from a near rust free donor car. I cut the quarters off a 68 coupe to go on my 67 barracuda coupe. I got the inner and outer wheel houses, trunk extensions, rocker panel. I just took a sawsall and cut along the subframe and kept going forward until past front leaf spring hanger. turned outboard but stayed inside the door sills and went all the way to the firewall before turning upward and finally cut through the forward door pillar! The 68 looked like a shucked oyster (barracuda on the 1/2 shell  ). I screwed up and got the smaller gas bottle and its seems to go quicker than I would like. My car is up on a rotissorie and the shorter bottle mounted to the cart allows me to roll the cart up under the car. I'm in a crowded garage so maneuverability is important. I just hate worrying about running out on a long holiday weekend.
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b569rr
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Thanks for the paint top BB cuda. The .023 will help your problems and don't forget to scoot and move. Any pics?
Tom
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NYrr496
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I'm about to buy a welder myself. I've welded heavy machinery for years but I'll need practice to do sheetmetal. One night in Border's, i was scoping the car books and came across a book called How to Weld Damn Near Anything. It's a Monster Garage book. I started looking through it thinking it would be worth a laugh> Turns out, it's a wealth of information. Probably the best book on welding I've ever seen.
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It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
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Duskybird
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 32
BigBlockDart.Com
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I'm about to buy a welder myself. I've welded heavy machinery for years but I'll need practice to do sheetmetal. One night in Border's, i was scoping the car books and came across a book called How to Weld Damn Near Anything. It's a Monster Garage book. I started looking through it thinking it would be worth a laugh> Turns out, it's a wealth of information. Probably the best book on welding I've ever seen.
I did the same thing, that book is good resource.
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abqdart
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Im no expert but I have a Lincoln 3200HD. Its a 135 amp 110v welder..... When I am welding thicker stuff I can get away with the .35 Flux cored wire with the anti-spatter spray makes for pretty good looking welds. Thats usually when I am welding thicker stuff, for the body panel stuff I use .23-.30 with 75/25 gas. Thats the hot ticket. With ALOT of practice you will be happy. Like I said I am still learning but seem to be catching on pretty quick.
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Rio Rancho N.M 87144
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MVRCorp
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I don't buy anything before checking Harbor Freight. Go to their web site, if there isn't one near you. They will ship it to your door. http://www.harborfreight.com/  [attachment deleted by admin]
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Gospel Runner
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ELUBB OR TOM: I could use your help at this time. I am ready to weld my quarter panels on my 70 roadrunner and before I cut into my baby I want to get a few things straight. After reading this thread I plan to measure down 2 inches from the top edge and put a 1/2"-3/4" seam along the top. Should I butt weld the front near the door jamb or seam that as well? Is it better to wait and grind down all welds at the end or should I grind them as I go? Once I am done grinding, what is best to use over this area, bondo or I read somewhere that they use a marine sealer of some sort? Any suggestions in this area? How does this welding primer work? Spray the back of both panels and there are no issues with welding the front side? I understand stitch welding to prevent any warping. Are there any other issues that can pop up that I need to be aware of? What is the best way to disconnect the wheel wells, sawsall or cut off tool? Lastly I read in Mopar mag a while back that it is a good idea to keep the rear tail light area intacked. Is this a good practice or should I just go all the way back with the new panel. I have no problem cutting around it and butt welding this area if you feel that will workout better. If anyone has pics of work they have done in this area I would appreciate you sharing. Thanks for any help in this area!!!
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eldubb440
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ive seen people attack it in different ways. i dont have any good detailed pics as i did full year one quarters on my gtx a couple years ago. this is what worked out good for me:.... i cut about 3/4 of an inch UNDER the the top body line (where it bends 90 degrees toward the trunk) and i drilled a 5/16 hole about every inch and a half or so. i left that 90 degree body line on my new quarter panel leaving about 3/8 of an inch toward the trunk , this kept both pieces from getting "flimsy". i slid the new panel UNDER. i filled the holes with weld then welded the seam solid (skipping around). i put a few tacks on the seam in the trunk up under the top of the 1/4 panel. i grinded the tacks and buried the seam(inside) with seam sealer...... at the door jamb, i drilled all the spot welds removing the skin where it wraps around. i wrapped the new skin around the jamb and welded most of it from the inside (quarter glass area) where the old spotwelds were (filling the holes created by removing the origional welds) same thing at the wheel wells. the weld thru primer enables you to prime where you are welding, so the unwelded bare areas dont rust. the "marine-tex" is something i like to use, only cause someone showed it to me and its awesome stuff. i put it over my grinded seams, then rough it up for bodyfiller. i'm a bit anal and tend to go a little "overboard". . just make sure the panel is EXACTLY where you want it before welding. have the door bolted to the car and lined up with the rocker and the old 1/4 before you cut it off. test fit the extension(tail lite area) before welding. make sure the trunk extesions fit. i respect other guys opinions as well and encourage them to chime in. theres a ton of talented guys here with great ideas and experience  oh, heres one crappy pic. [attachment deleted by admin]
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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eldubb440
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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b569rr
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 I agree that eldubb is the man for sheet metal work. My welding background is pressure pipe and structural steel. It takes a real man like Mark to weld gum wrappers together. Tom
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eldubb440
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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Gospel Runner
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Thank you gentlemen that is a huge help! I will take a lot of pics which ever way I choose to go and share my progress here.
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loiq
Full Member
 
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Posts: 367
BigBlockDart.Com
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I have a Hobart Handler 180 and use .030 and set the gas between 15 and 20. I worked at a friend's auto body resoration shop and all he uses is .030, so that's what I use.
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Gospel Runner
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Thanks I have a Miller and there is .030 wire in it. If anyone wants to chime in on the settings with this machine, I am all ears. It's a Millermatic 200. I will try to post some pics of the before tomorrow.
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SS/G
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 18
BigBlockDart.Com
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I like my little miller 110 unit I can take it anywhere and for welding sheet metal it rocks. If you take your time and spot weld all over your fine. I never had as good of luck with the flux core wire I liked the gas sheild better. I also just bought a sncrowave 250 and that is way cool.
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b569rr
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Yes, flux core has no business on anything unless you are running structural steel prodution. I like .023" wire; less heat involved than .030".
Tom
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