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Topic: Quarter Panel Advice (Read 700 times)
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xssive
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 10
BigBlockDart.Com
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I am looking for advice/recommendations regarding quarter panels for 69 Dart GTS. I've read threads here stating that much of what is available is junk. I'd be interested in hearing feedback on quality panels. I'm expecting that I'll have to go with a repro reseller and that I'll likely keep most of my original quarters and just use the lower half to replace the rusted areas. If anyone has information or helpful advice, it will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Vince
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Ed
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Welcome. Patches are easier to do then a whole quarter, at least for me. Do you have them all cleaned up and can you post some pics?
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formerly VIN_VL29U
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
Offline
Posts: 4753
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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Replacement quarters are not full quarters and are thinner than the original metal. They fit ok. We had them installed on my son's GT convertible. Fortunately my GTS doesn't need that much work.
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7903 posts on old board.
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jimmyb
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here are mine I bought them from year one.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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 Blown 572 Hemi Work in progrees Engine by Dram |
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6pkScamp
Full Member
Offline
Posts: 106
Small block Scamp Brooksville,Fla.
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I also sm looking for companies that sell quarters. Just finished the mini-tub on the Scamp, now time to get rid of the cancer. I'll most likley get a whole quarter and just use what I need. The going price seems to be between $200 and $230. Already looked at Year one, Paddock, Classic one and Jims auto parts. Lets hear you guys.
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onlyas
Guest
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just got a pair of Goodmark quarters for a Duster from jeg's. $410.00 to my door
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dustertogo
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Most of them come from the same place and just get different names put on them. I got mine from year one and they look the same as the ones from Cross Canada panels. They even have the same sticker on them. But unless you find a rust free car you can cut them off(pretty hard to do in Canada) they are all you get. Just use what you need. They will take a bit of work to look nice but they will be fine.
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sickt7cuda
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Year One bought the molds from Ma Mopar. Those are the ones I used. The fit was great, although they were on the thin side. Unless you can find OEM panels - good luck - you are going to have to work with the aftermarket stuff. I'm a fairly talented (insert humility) body/panel guy, and they turned out perfect. I even had to widen the wheel wells and I dare anyone to find signs of that being done....short of taking measurments.
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505 - 400 block
EZ-1's, 4.56 gear, 8" PTC 4500 stall
best of 1.402 60', 10.338 @ 128.73
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feff
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Not to be an azz,  but i worked for year one for years and they don't make any of there parts  they may have worked with another company to get the molds from ma-mopar but they don't make them in house. |
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Evan
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I dont mean to steal this thread, but do you guys like to butt weld them or flange them? thanks in advance, -Evan
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eldubb440
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i only butt weld small patches.......overlap big stuff, flanging is nice where you can use it
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 65 Satellite
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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Evan
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eldubb - for a full quarter, would you recommend flanging or overlapping, or what? if you overlap, how do you hide the seam? filler? thanks as usual! -Evan
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eldubb440
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everyone has there own way of doing things.....that said; flanging, if we are talking bout the same thing (putting a "step" in the sheetmetal); works great on flat runs. it actually gives the "edge" a little rigidity and allows for a nice level overlap..... some cars; my gtx for example; i overlaped the top bodyline. leaving it on both pieces giving both of them rigidity. i did the same on my coronet lower panels; overlapped the bodyline. i butt welded the front near the wheel opening, and the back near the bumper..........after welding, i grind it and put a layer of marine-tex (a nasty epoxy) over the area. then i grind that flat, and proceed to bodyfill.... heres a pic of the coronet patch. i only tacked it on the inside. ill epoxy the inside too.
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 65 Satellite
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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Evan
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do you overlap on a bodyline, or on a flat spot? thanks for the info, -Evan
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eldubb440
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flange the flat spot if thats where your gonna work. (it can be done without flanging, but flanging adds strenth) its hard to see in my pic, but the bodyline is above the welded seam and below the marks left from tacking on the inside.......... working near a strong area, such as a body line will help prevent warping. IMO.... heres a pic after its been grinded(ground?) maybe ill remove the sticker one day  [attachment deleted by admin] |
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Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 65 Satellite
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
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Evan
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ok, thanks a bunch, -Evan
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