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Author Topic: Torsion bars  (Read 1889 times)
dmn71
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Torsion bars
« on: December 25, 2005, 01:08:21 PM »

I am rebuilding front end on the 71 demon.  This car is a original 340, but the torsion bars I removed were .850 which on the tech pages show out of 318 car.  Question is would it be good to go to .890 or .920 bars or just put the .850's back in, no sway bar on car.  340 is mild build, car mostly used for street. Looking for better handling.  Putting disk brakes on front & 11 inch drums on rear.  Thanks,  Steve
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ks440
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #1 on: December 25, 2005, 03:54:43 PM »

 Hi. In response to your torsion bar question. I've got an E-body that originally had a 340 in it and was converted to a 440 clone. The torsion bars were .870", but I wanted the car to handle well. I installed a pair of .960" improved "B/RB" and Hemi handling bars. Allthough the 440 weighs more than your 340, I found my car handles quite well without riding too stiff. If you want your car to handle corners without feeling like you're "floating", I'd install the .890" bars. The .920" bars may be a bit too stiff. Also, a sway bar would greatly improve cornering stability. I hope this helps.
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abodyjoe
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #2 on: December 25, 2005, 07:23:54 PM »

jim lusk should chime in on this one.. but if you want it to handle i think i would go with atleast the 920's  but probably bigger...
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70 Dustpan
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #3 on: December 25, 2005, 08:22:03 PM »

With a smallblock I would say go with the .890 bars and stock size sway bars. Should give you a good ride and good street handling.
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70-440
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2005, 08:24:49 PM »

I think the 890s with a large sway bay would really help with the handling and still not ride too harshly.
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Cudadust
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2005, 10:16:53 PM »

I run the .920s on two small block cars and find them to be excellent choices. Ride quality is maintained and the cars coner flat and true. On th 440 Duster had the 1.04s and the only problem was a resonance at a steady 80 MPH over or under the resonance was not there. These cars were all equipped with KYB shocks, Urethane bushings front and rear and frame connectors, the Firm Feel steering boxes are also a plus in the handling department. 
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slow_motion
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2005, 10:25:46 PM »

I run the .920 on the slant six car and i'd think they'd be a perfect upgrade for a small block car. I get excellent handleing from those bars, of course the redone suspension with upgrades in the swaybar/tire/wheel dept doest hurt either. But, when i swaped the bars in, it was the only change i did, it was quite an improvment.

--chad
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board.
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dmn71
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2005, 11:08:16 AM »

Thanks for all the input.  As always good help and info.  Will look at either the .890's or .920's  I am going to the 4.5 bolt pattern and at least 15 inch rims so figured might need to go to bigger bars.

Till the next question.  thanks steve
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shoebox1.1
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2005, 08:37:08 PM »

my slant 6 "ac" bars are 820's and the car handles amazingly well even withoout a sway bar!
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sr71mopar
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2005, 10:35:42 PM »

I got a set of .990's from another member of this board. He replaced them with a set of 1.14's. According to him, even the super big dogs didn't ride too bad. Missed my chance to go for a ride in his SCCA legal 68 Barracuda. Hey Alan, you still around?
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Jim_Lusk
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #10 on: December 27, 2005, 02:21:08 AM »

Alan's hasn't been here lately (but he was "here" last night). The car is still not back together.

Now, on to the subject at hand. If it is an original 340 car it will have .870" torsion bars and a sway bar. Every 340 a-body left the factory that way (no exceptions). If I were buying new torsion bars I wouldn't buy less than .920's. With those and a small block, I'd run the stock small block sway bar and good shocks for the street. Bigger torsion bars and sway bars for racing.

I haven't really driven Alan's Barracuda with the 1.14 bars, but he says it isn't too bad.

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dmn71
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #11 on: December 27, 2005, 11:13:47 AM »

Jim,  I know in 71 that chrysler changed some things like the disk brakes on the dusters and demons became an option, so I thought maybe they had a handling package as an option.  I noticed that there were no swaybar brackets on the lower control arms when I tore it apart.  I know the front end on my demon was rebuilt at sometime in the last 2 or 3 years before I bought it.  Things may have been changed at that time.

Thanks steve
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Jim_Lusk
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #12 on: December 27, 2005, 12:12:49 PM »

Actually disc brakes became an option in 1965 on all a-bodies (same Kelsey-Hayes setup that was used through 1972 - with a minor change in the caliper at some point between 1967 and 1970). And, like I said before ALL 340 a-bodies had .870" torsion bars and a front sway bar. If it was rebuilt with the wrong parts I would check the rest of the car to make sure the body numbers match the VIN.
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slow_motion
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Re: Torsion bars
« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2005, 03:52:58 PM »

And just so anyone else wants/needs to see the chart first talked about, here is the link from the tech section http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/torsion.shtml

--chad
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Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board.
Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie

Life is just fine in the slow lane.

'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360
'96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels
'95 Ram, her truck
'71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock
'20 Model T pickup, stock
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