Need bodymans advice!

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October 11, 2008, 12:58:02 AM

Hey guys, I have a bodyshop linned up to do some work on my car (68 dart). I am having the rear lower quarters, rockers and the trunk extentions done. Anyway the bodymans method to replacing the lower rear qaurters is to cut the old part off (behind the rear wheel) flange the existing metal, punch holes in the new panel then glue and spot weld the panel on, I always understood that solid( butt) welding was the way to go, this guy swears by his way. Has anyone used this method. thanks for any help Darren

Darren...

With the advent of super high strength adheasives such as 3M or Accuseal, the "Old" method of cutting, tack welding, grinding, filling has by most body shops gone by the wayside.
I will say, that I perfer the old method. Since most shops are a Book rate and flat fee shop, the issue is quality and time. Therefore they can do quality work, yet save time. To SOME its a delicate balance.(I experienced this last year when I needed some rocker panels to fix some rusted areas on my truck and began obtaining estimates from some shops to weld in patches on the rusted areas, only to discover the patch panels were glued in)

The old method done by a qualified or knowledgeable person takes about 8-10 hrs actual time per side to (ready to paint) . Thats cutting the old out, placing the new in, welding, grinding, filling, sanding and prime/prep for paint.

With the new adheasives, that time is cut into 1/3 or at most 1/2 of the time.

The double layer "flanging" pretty much in 3M testing, showed that it was as strong and at times stronger than the actual welding. (I've actually seen results and the tests done at the 3M factory at a plant in MO.)Longitivity of the application of glue vs. weld, the glue outlasted the weld 10 fold.

Alot of the panels in NASCAR and even NHRA are "glued" with some of these adheasives.

I would trust the work if done by your guy, as long as he does it correctly and is knowledgable in its application.

If I were to do it again, I'd still weld in and such(like I did on my dart) but I wasnt needing it in a week.
One problem you will suffer if you did it on your own is "tinkerititus" or "isitsolidenough" syndrome. It just drags on and on until your happy. At times, I think my qtr panels are the strongest welds on the whole damn car.

Hope that helps

Thanks Midnight special! The bottom line is I want the work lasting, i,m 29 years old and I plan on keeping the car, I've owned the car for 7 years and have had horrible advice on motor and tranny problems I could write a book on it. The bodyman told me I could go in and watch how he does it and help him if I wanted, I am a welder by trade, But I work with alot heavier steal than on a car. so I understand the ins and outs of fastening metals, So what you are saying is if he does the work right I should not have any problems down the road? thanks Darren

It'll be strong enough. What you have to be careful of with flanging and bonding is doing it properly so that the seam doesn't telegraph though finish on a hot day.

i worked in a bodyshop for 3 years and bonding and spot welding IMO are the best way to go. just like midnight special said it will last 10 fold than just welding alone. also it helps to reduce warping when welding. the reason it will last is because metal bond is water proof. hope this helps

i put a small patch with the glue and it worked out great, no warpage and the stuff is also a rust perventer.

Is there a certian type of glue I should tell him to use , thanks Darren

i like to us 3m metal bond. the only down fall about the product is that it takes 24 hrs to fully cure

I have read quite a bit about another brand called Fusor. They talk about it quite a bit on http://www.autobody101.com and say a lot of good things. I will probably be using either the Lord Fusor or the 3m Metal Bond when I do a couple patches on my car.

http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=930