Pages: [1] 
|
 |
|
 Author
|
Topic: Angled vs. Parallel Leafs (Read 679 times)
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
So here is the deal... I have relocated springs using the MP boxes. The boxes ARE NOT centered in the frame, I left the outside skin of the frame from some added strength. Doing this throws the centerline of the springs more inward, so I cannot just center the rear shackes on the rear frame rail.
The problems:
The rear end is build, perched, and powder coated. The measurements were using the stock springs and bushings. The stock rubber bushings had enough "give" to let me use the centered rear shackles. Problem is now that I have solid front bushings with Calvert Monos, read it, no give whatsoever. This is ok, because I don't want things binding anyway. If I run the springs in parallel I will have to relocate the rear shackles inward, which will throw off my rear end perch alignment.
Possible solutions:
- Relocate the rear shackle mounts inward, grind off rear end perches and relocate them as well.
- Elongate the inside holes of the MP boxes, and run the springs at a bit of an angle. Since the angle should be the same as the original springs, I should not have to mess up my pretty powder coated D60. However, it seems like it would be difficult to find the same angle for both sides...
I know some cars came from the factory not running the leafs in parallel. It seems like this would help handling a little. Just trying to figure out the best method so things work correctly.
Thoughts?
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
70 Dustpan
|
Elongate the hole to get it to line up. then use some big washers on the outside of both sides of the boxes. When you get it all lined up tac the washers in place. Remove the springs and weld the washers fully.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Hey, I'm a God again!
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Elongate the hole to get it to line up. then use some big washers on the outside of both sides of the boxes. When you get it all lined up tac the washers in place. Remove the springs and weld the washers fully.
That was the plan if I hear a general concensous that running them at an angle is ok. Thanks! :-) Andy |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Evan
|
Thats what I would do to. Another thought - MP sells offset shackles. They are offset .8". I dont know how far yours is off.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Thats what I would do to. Another thought - MP sells offset shackles. They are offset .8". I dont know how far yours is off.
That is not enough, I have a set...  Andy |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
70 Dustpan
|
Theres lots of cars from the factory that aren't perallel. How much are we talking about here?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Hey, I'm a God again!
|
|
|
|
Tubbed440
|
E-bodies came from the factory with springs there were not paralell. I say go for it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'74 Challenger, Full cage, 500 inch Wedge, 4L80E, ladder bars,
Coil-overs - 325/50/15 MT drag radials - Street Car!
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Theres lots of cars from the factory that aren't perallel. How much are we talking about here?
I really don't think it will end up being that much. I cannot give you an exact measurement right now. A little movement at the front eye, will be a big change at the rear shackle. Sorry just no more info to offer at the moment... I just know it is not centered on the rear shackle which is centered in the rear frame rail, and the offset shackles are not enough. Andy |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
sweatybetty
Full Member
 Offline
Posts: 368
BigBlockDart.Com
|
im knda curious as to what effect, good or bad, the springs being parallel or not would have on the car. any ideas?  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
now that i have a brighter future, im going to start brushing my teeth
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Haha... me too, that was kind of the point of this thread...  Well, not being parallel should make the car more stable, where as if they are exactly parallel, the car would have a tendancy to sway more. Andy |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
slow_motion
|
Andy, i dont see any problem and do like Brent says and weld the washers on. You cant be talking more than 1/8"-3/16" on each side. E-bodys had more than that.
--chad
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Formerly: 400dart, 4523 posts on old board.
Recovering racing addict and turbo junkie
Life is just fine in the slow lane.
'85 D150 stepside, lowered, magnum 360
'96 Dakota,3.9, 2" drop, GenIII wheels
'95 Ram, her truck
'71 Duster, her car, 318/air, stock
'20 Model T pickup, stock
|
|
|
|
|
|
fourspeed
|
Angled is ok. Making them parallel is too much work for too little benefit. Also, the angle is so small I doubt it would affect handling or ride at all.
One thought though. I'm not familiar with the front mount of Caltracs, so I'm thinking of a super stock spring eye here... When you crank the nut tight, the spring eye bushing gets clamped between the sides of the relo box. If you hogged out the hole and welded a washer to the outside, the spring eye would not get clamped in place (without some "adjustment"). In the case of leaf springs, I would not want the spring eye bushing floating on the bolt, but clamped tight in the relo box.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Angled is ok. Making them parallel is too much work for too little benefit. Also, the angle is so small I doubt it would affect handling or ride at all.
One thought though. I'm not familiar with the front mount of Caltracs, so I'm thinking of a super stock spring eye here... When you crank the nut tight, the spring eye bushing gets clamped between the sides of the relo box. If you hogged out the hole and welded a washer to the outside, the spring eye would not get clamped in place (without some "adjustment"). In the case of leaf springs, I would not want the spring eye bushing floating on the bolt, but clamped tight in the relo box.
I understand what you are saying. Once I relocate to the correct position, I am going to weld in the void to the back of the washer, then grind it smooth. Andy |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1] 
|
|
|
 |
