440 block pics and drilling

[Steve DeTar]

Here's some pic's for you guys that want to Modify for block for better oiling.  Mopars main oil gallery is roughly a 9/16 bore all the way thru the block on both sides.  The bad deal is every lifter passes thru each gallery meaning, you have 16 points of leakage, not including a massive leak in the # 4 main, which feds #4 cam journal, which is timed, to feed each rockershaft assy.  All the holes in this late 77 440 block were a 1/4, these are the feed holes that come down from the passenger "Main" oil gallery.  As you can see in the pic, #2, #3, #4, #5, are fed off of the main oil gallery.  #1 is fed off the front which intersects the pass over passage that is cast into the front of the block from the oil pump pad.

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[Steve DeTar]

Here's a pic of the front.

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[Steve DeTar]

The easyist way to get more oil to the bearings is to enlarge the passages from the main oil gallery to the main bearings. With a 9/32 reamer, 6" long and a 4" 1/4 arbor is what I used.  I used a 9/16 diameter stainless steel rod as a stop when drilling, so I would'nt punch a hole in the other side of the gallery.

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[Steve DeTar]

Here's the reamer

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[Steve DeTar]

Here's a pic of most of the lay out of the oil system.  You will have to remove the main caps to drill.  When you look down the main saddles, you will notice their is a passage that also feeds the cam journals.  DO NOT DRILL THESE OUT

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[Steve DeTar]

The reason I picked a later block is simple, they have bigger main saddles that hold the crank in the block

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[Steve DeTar]

compared to a 69 block

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[Steve DeTar]

compared to a 400 cold weather block

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[Steve DeTar]

Drilling these gallery's out alone will increase flow 10% to the bearings.  I will post some more pic's later and hope this helps any of you wanting to modify your own block.

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[A13Dart]

Good information Steve. Thanks.



mike.

[Ciscodog]

Yeah that's pretty cool Steve - thanks for taking the time to show us that.  I've always wondered exactly which passages people are talking about.

[BoredandStroked]

Wow thank you on the info, I needed these kind of pics so thank you very much. I am building a 383 out of a 63 Chrysler 300 I am putting in my Dart and wanting to get some high RPMS out of it so thank you alot! (Anything that I would need to watch out for when doing this to my block?)

[JD451]

Thanks Steve, great info 

[Steve DeTar]

I take it you are running a solid lifter cam?  A roller?  I don't prefer hydraulics after 6,500rpm.  The above mods will work for either hydraulic cammed engines or solid lifter cammed engines.  When I get alittle farther along, I'll point out some things just for solids.  Most of these and the others you can do with some simple hand tools.  Your engine, is this something that is a daily driver or weekender or strickly race, -no title on the car, -not to be street driven at all?

[Capt Jack]

wow.  fantastic info!  this should be a sticky

[kowski71400]

steve, you are the man!!

[dusterdood]

Very good and informative! Two questions.
1- what's a 'cold weather' block?
2- where can I get a 6" reamer like shown. (anywhere on line?) I'm very happy with the powerhouse products stuff I've bought.

[BoredandStroked]

I take it you are running a solid lifter cam?  A roller?  I don't prefer hydraulics after 6,500rpm.  The above mods will work for either hydraulic cammed engines or solid lifter cammed engines.  When I get alittle farther along, I'll point out some things just for solids.  Most of these and the others you can do with some simple hand tools.  Your engine, is this something that is a daily driver or weekender or strickly race, -no title on the car, -not to be street driven at all?

If these questions are toward me, which i believe so, then I would say strickly race. It will be street driven probably 2 times a year at the Cumberland car cruise ,in Maryland, in the spring and fall. Yes there is a title and like I stated, probably street driven 2 times a year. No idea on the cams but I was thinking a solid lifter cam when I get that far.

[Steve DeTar]

http://www.mcmaster.com/

A Cold Weather block 400 was only cast between 4 April 71 to 10 Oct 71.  All other's after this have smaller mains, but still bigger than any pre 75 440 or any 383 block. Maybe I should'nt have used the "cold weather" term.  In the mopar world, they call these the 230 block, via the last 3 digit's of the casting number.  Brandon has a better pic

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[dusterdood]

Do I just E-mail them and ask for a 6" 9/32" reamer? You wouldn't have to part # still would you.
Thanks, mike

[Steve DeTar]

I am sorry I do not have a part number.  I have a supply company here in Wichita that can get all this stuff.  Remember, you are going to need a 5" arbor to clear the back of the block.  Just make sure you get one with a 1/4 inch collet so you can attach the reamer.

[383propane]

Great pics and info.   A couple of questions....would you say this is a good mod to do for a lower RPM street motor?  And should this be done only with the increase to the 1/2 pickup?  Should this be done with full groved bearings?  Should it be done only if using a HV oil pump?  Thanks for you input.

[Steve DeTar]

I'll try my best to answer your question in my opinion. It would be good to ream the main saddles feeds bigger than the factory 1/4 hole, regardless if it a stock motor, a performance street motor or a all out racer. The main and rod bearings need a hydraulic wedge to keep from metal to metal contact. These bearings and clearances keep the wedge intact and leak out.  When clearances are too wide or too great, you will have a increase in flow and a drop in pressure.  If you have a HV pump and still have the factory 1/4 feeds, what's the point?  With a high pressure pump, a 1/4 inch hole is only going to flow so much regardless of pressure. Which brings me too another point.  The feeds from the main saddles to the cam journals are 1/4 inch also.  I am not saying a HV is bad, everybody does this upgrade. You only get pressure from the resistance of leakage.  Ever throw a lifter in a engine?  Lots of flow, drop in pressure.  Thanks,  Steve

[Steve DeTar]

If you look right down into the main saddles in #2,3,4,5,  you will see the where both main oil gallery feed and the cam journal feed are intersected.  Here's a pic so you get the idea of the angles.  Remember, don't drill the cam journal feeds.

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[dusterdarryl]

this is the best posting I have seen here in a long time, cheers for your time Mr De Tar.

[Steve DeTar]

Hey dusterdarryl, you spelled my name right!

[dusterdood]

sTEVE IS THE MAN!

[mopfried]

      Yep Steve is da man. He has help me directly and indirectly many times


 
 

[Charles]

Here's the reamer

McMaster-Carr has one that looks just like that, their p/n 2995A66 in highspeed steel or 2975A42 in cobalt steel.

Is it always necessary to use a reamer?  I bought a 12" long 9/32" drill bit from them (about the same price as the reamer and didn't require the 5" arbor too) and had no problem, although it felt better when advancing the drill very slowly. I suppose the concern is breaking the bit off in the block? 
-Charles

[Steve DeTar]

Yes, use a reamer if possible.  I've snapped off a few bits and to tell you the truth, I could'nt get it out, so I had to start over with another block.  Drill bits are very brittle and if used carefully, can be used.  But if you slip or accidently jerk the drill, it'll snap off.  A reamer is pretty solid and hard to snap.  I have used both steel and cobalt.  Just don't go crazy with the rpm's of the drill motor or it'll cook the tip.  When using reamers, you will have to push it thru. 

I have some part numbers:

The 4" arbor has a 1/4 collet, 1/4 drive.....CA 4500-1

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