Media blasting

Maybe this read will help in the decision

I posted this on the other thread. Advice from a friend in Fl.

The term "Acid" dipping is not in anyway whatsoever conducted on resto type vehicles. Factually, Acid was used to "reduce a drag vehicles weight" and this stupid term of saying "ACID" is miss-used when speaking of vehicle restorations that are conducted today.

NO ACID is used in vehicle submersion, as acid actually eats both good solid steel material and the rust, leaving the vehicles metal skin pitted and actually it will rust (surface flash) quicker when acid is used.

Vehicle Dipping is conducted to remove ONLY the existing rust [I.E. IRON OXCIDE] and that is normally conducted via electrolyses. With only the areas of metal that has iron oxide (rust on it's steel base) being removed and the magic chemical used,,,,, (get ready) ,,, is,,,"BICARBONATE SODA" dissolved in water.!

Hey, isn't that something, it's the very same material used in soda blasting but only dissolved in water and an electrical current in correct values is being used ! (However soda when used in a blasting process won't remove any rust, only stronger abrasives like silica-sand that can easily warp most surface vehicles metal, due to the heat it generates when it contacts the metal surface and/or aluminum oxide which also will warp surface metal.

Oh by the way, all methods of abrasive "blasting" will not in anyway whatsoever remove all of the rust, as there are still minor areas of rust remaining and embedded in the pores of the steel only to return later unless something like a real rust preventative material such as POR-15 base paint sealer is first used prior to finish painting the vehicle's previously rusted areas in question. Areas of rust that cannot be reached I.E. box frames, metal seams and so forth will still have the opportunity to rust as they did day one from the vehicles manufacturer passably line.

Both processes (either soda blasting or vehicle-dipping ) must be "pressured washed" and "dried" before you use self etching base primer. By the way, "self-etching-primer" is the first time any sort of acid-type material is use in a proper vehicle resto. Humm?

To clear up some paint warrantee misconceptions. All vehicle paint mfgs will in fact warranty the application (adhesion) of paint on vehicles as long as the vehicle that was either soda-blasted or dipped has been properly "neutralized" (cleaned/prepped as mention above) The real and serious issue of paint warranty is the fact that (as a private garage Do It Yourselfer guy) unless you have a good relationship with the paint distributor in your area, your wonderful resto will never, ever be warranted, simply because you are not a daily licensed vehicle paint & body profession / business. Nearly all paint materials made today has a disclaimer on the side of the paint-can stating "For Professional Use Only" or some other similar disclaimer!

Factually & no argument needed, vehicle dipping for all areas of seen and unseen iron oxide (rust) removal is the best way to go. Plus, then going the step of having the vehicle primer dipped (fully submersed) using negative (reverse electron ground process) grounding if your real intent is to have a finished product (all costs barred) desire to be around for many, many generations.
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