griff70440
Jr. Member

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Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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is it possible to use coilovers with a stock front end if you added bracing the shock tower bracket?would you be able to remove the torsion bars? thanks mike
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71 Pro Street
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There really is no way to make some sort of bracket to support the aft part of the control arm to accept coil overs without being safe and functional. The only correct way to use coil-overs is with a tubular front suspension. 71
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abodyjoe
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there are a few racers that did it at moparts.... may want to check with them..
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B1Valiant
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Well I have done it one five cars so far with no issues. The current car has the same set up, MF tubular control arms and Coil overs. The shock tower is tied into the front cage struts. Never had any issues at all with this set up.
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bOb shingler
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i did it too. i have the front inner fenders in place also.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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griff70440
Jr. Member

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Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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do you guy have any pictures of how you did it?I`d like to keep the inner fenders if possible. thanks mike orange_dart_440@yahoo.com
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bOb shingler
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buy the coil-overs and the stud adaptor from bill and take the torsion bars out. nothing to it.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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Blvedere
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What is the benefit of just switching over to coil-overs. Is there a real performance advantage, or is it just something to do, so you can say I have coil-overs? Not trying to be a wise guy but really want to know.
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griff70440
Jr. Member

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Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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I`d like to put coilovers and remove the torsion bars. that would give me more room.
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fasttcars
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i got coilovers in the front of my car also.....no big deal....but i originally installed the magnum force converion..and pulled my torsion bars but i didn't like how high the car sat[just me]......so i modifies the lower control arm to position the lower coilover mouting bolt lower...and i modifired the top mounting position as well...so now at this point i had my stance how i wanted it....but the car was kinda floaty in the front...without the torsion bars....and with e the car being low this was no good because it would tend to bottom out....so i put the torsion bars back in now the front is stiff as ever and perfect for the car...but it kinda negat's the benefit's of being able to leave the torsion bars out.......
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440dstr
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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fasttcars
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cars parked for winter...but i might be able to plow through the snow to get to the car and grab a shoot
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bOb shingler
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the advantage is less weight but more importantly more room for headers.
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"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
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Blvedere
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Hey B1, Did you change the lower control arm. Do you have any pics of the lower control arm after you removed the T bars ?
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B1Valiant
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I use the stock lower control arm/ I drilled and tapped the rear of the stub for a 3/8" bolt. I install the bolt with a large washer that covers the whole, just to make sure it wont go anywhere. I also weld the old T bar adjuster in place so it wont rattle around. Dont think I have a picture though and at this point you would nto be able to see it..
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Bill_Reilly
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I think DusterDave has a group of pics on his website. Can't remember his web address...
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Those who say it can't be done, should not interrupt those of us who are doing it.
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griff70440
Jr. Member

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Posts: 29
BigBlockDart.Com
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thanks guys for all the replies.B1 your car looks bad ass.I like the stance.is the car backhalfed?
mike
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440dstr
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thanks for pics more would be great.question;how much weight do you save? 
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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440dstr
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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440dstr
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does bill sell this kit? 
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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B1Valiant
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Ok here goes...First off thanks for the kind words. The car is NOT back halfed. It is simply a minitubbed car with a TRUE 10.5" tire. Yes the headers are custom Step pieces that are all inside the framerail.
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Bill_Reilly
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I don't sell a "kit" to do it - The other company makes the aluminum upper brackets and adds them to normal coil-overs. I don't even bother with it - It's just a pair of coil-overs and a set of tube a-arms. The stock stud-type mount works fine and allows a longer travel shock, but good luck convincing anyone of it. Just grab a pair of adjustable upper arms from somewhere(mine or elsewhere, they're all similar aside from price), and choose a pair of coil-overs with a stud-top mount, in the 11-17" range. QA1 5855's are 11.5 - 17", AFCO 1850's are 11.5-16.5", Varishock 515's are 11-16",ect,ect. 11.5"-16" will allow more travel than the stock bumpstops, so anything in that length range works fine. Over time, the stud-top bushings can get beat up, but they're like $10 at any napa store and take 5 minutes to change. I believe Shingler uses the bushing tops - he can give you an idea how long they last.
I agree putting a screw in the back is a good idea...it's not a part you want falling off...
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Those who say it can't be done, should not interrupt those of us who are doing it.
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440dstr
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i love this site. seems like i learn something new everyday. and the real kicker is what i learn is either cheaper, better, or at least interesting 
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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Ciscodog
Guest
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Rather than drilling/tapping the stud, I welded a nut on the end and used a bolt/washer setup. Serves the same purpose.
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HemiDenny
Jr. Member

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Posts: 37
BigBlockDart.Com
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I've used this setup with chromoly tubing sleeves welded through the front rails. no problems. TTi headers (B-E body Hemi or RB) fit great......just get rid of the steering box and use a rack. 
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65DartGT
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This can't be done without renforcing the upper shock mount right? The stock shock mount isn't strong enough to hold the cars weight is it?
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Blvedere
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I've used this setup with chromoly tubing sleeves welded through the front rails. no problems. TTi headers (B-E body Hemi or RB) fit great......just get rid of the steering box and use a rack.  Have you installed a rack and retained the K member. If so could you post some pics and info of how you did it? [attachment deleted by admin]
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