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Author Topic: Bill's Strut Upgrade  (Read 682 times)
urchinhead
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Bill's Strut Upgrade
« on: February 06, 2007, 01:27:46 AM »

I've already rebuilt my front end, and am shopping for some .920 or .990 torsion bars and at least a sway bar in the front for my '64 Dart. What about Bill's strut upgrades? I just want my small block street car to handle well. Any thoughts?

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fourspeed
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2007, 12:11:19 AM »

I would say you're on the right track, but what do I know? My car still isn't on the road.  Roll Eyes

I really like Bill's strut rod kit. I've got a pair myself.
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Bill_Reilly
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2007, 10:27:23 AM »

The strut rods seem to be the unspoken hero. Almost everyone that tries them says they made a bigger difference than the upper arms, but it's tough to picture why they make such a difference, so I don't really sell many.  Getting rid of the strut rod bushing is a big help with stability and motion. Not a whole lot to say otherwise, just a neat little part that does it's job.
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Those who say it can't be done, should not interrupt those of us who are doing it.
urchinhead
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2007, 10:56:29 AM »

That's what I pictured. I was just trying to check it out, make sure I'm not buying parts that I don't really need for my application. On my next Mopar, I'm definitely going Alterkation.
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jamesdart
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2007, 03:57:13 PM »

i bought them and totally understood why they would work better form the day you released them. i put poly strut rod bushings in my dart and it bound the front end up so tight that with /6 bars and a big block, if you tried to bounce the front end by hand it felt like it had torsion bars well over an inch in diameter. you couldnt bounce it more than an inch by hand. it made everything so tight compared to the rubber strut rod bushings.
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dartcharger_270
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2007, 04:39:27 PM »

I may have a factory sway bar and .92 torsion bars for sale soon if you are interested...
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1965 Dodge Dart 270 HT
1965 Dodge Dart 270 Wagon
urchinhead
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2007, 06:24:22 PM »

Yes, I would, at least the torsion bars. No luck with those rear brake parts, huh?
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dartcharger_270
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2007, 03:00:34 AM »

I posted on another one of your threads they are the 11x2.5 so not the ones you were looking for.  I bought the torsion bars for my car they have been installed but never run.
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2007, 05:00:49 PM »

to make your car handle- 65% of it is the tires, 20% is the torsion bars, and the rest is sway bars, shocks and other little parts

theres no use for a stiff front suspension if your front tires will slide, bill's strut rods are a good idea but if your on a budget, other mods can be more cost worthy, i only spent about $500 on my entire front end, everything but the frame rails, and it handles amazing with .990 bars, 235/60r15 tires, poly bushings, full disk brakes, and everything else is stock style but new
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Re: Bill's Strut Upgrade
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2008, 01:35:09 AM »

The strut rods seem to be the unspoken hero. Almost everyone that tries them says they made a bigger difference than the upper arms, but it's tough to picture why they make such a difference, so I don't really sell many.  Getting rid of the strut rod bushing is a big help with stability and motion. Not a whole lot to say otherwise, just a neat little part that does it's job.
Hi Bill, I would like to understand how your RMS strut works to accommodate the change in distance, between the LCA and the strut K-mem. end? In the stock set up, the front segment of the bushing compresses on full LCA extension or compression. Does your front mount swivel or does the Heim-Joint roll over, side to side when the above happens? .........   I' m sold otherwise for my 68 Barracuda V-8 (was 318 stock/HD drum) drag car. I did the Willwood front disk brake conversion with 165R78-15" on 4'' Welds and lost aprox. 45 lbs. I also swapped in an Aluminum fast box(K2 14J) with FlamingRiver conversion linkage and lost another 40 or so Lbs. Headers and LD-340 Edelbrock along with heater/wiper and front bench seat removal, loses another 150 Lbs. It's smooth @ finish line but, I need better and your rods look like they will speed initial front end rise and add stability to the top end, especially when breaking hard near the finish line and re-gassing it that last few feet.  Whew
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