Import tuner style wheels on a 68 Dart?

[MyCreation68]

Hey guys I was hoping somebody could help me out with this offset/backspacing type stuff. I want to put an import style wheel on my dart.

I want to have a 17 or 18 inch by 7inch wide wheel on the front and a 18 or 19 inch by 10 inches wide on the rear. I'm wondering what kind of offset and backspace I need to make it fit. I have found that wheels from a mustang(1994-2004) have the same bolt spacing(5X4.5/5x114.5) and I can find similar wheels but I want to make sure I don't buy a wheel with a say 40mm offset and find it rubs on the fenders etc. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm using Wilwood Dynalite Pro Series brakes on the front and rear(2.72 Offset on the rear) if that makes a difference

I want rims that look something like this:


P.s. I looked at the majority of wheel related posts and couldn't find the info I need.

[duster-dan]

check this link

http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,10826.0.html

[fasttcars]

if i  remember correctly my 18x8.5 front and back[the only size available 6 years ago].....have a 5.5 inch offset

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[Bill_Reilly]

With the alterk and b-body drum axles in my car, I ran 17X8 bullets, but I'll be switching to the 05+ versions with more offset. Using Mustang wheels is the best way to avoid expensive customs...

You do have to file a little bit on the rear wheels - the center register on these wheels is about .020 smaller than the mopar axle center. I just used a an 1/8" wheel spacer and it all worked out perfectly without grinding anything.

[MyCreation68]

I did find some wheels that I like that i think would fit.

American Racing Shelby Razor comes in 17x9, 18x9, and 20x9 with 12mm offset/5.5 backspace and 24mm offset/6 backspace on a 5-4 1/2 bolt pattern

[Bill_Reilly]

I saw on some website the Razor comes in black too.

Another wheel that impressed me was American Racing's Casino. For a "fancy" wheel, it looks really neat. I tend to lean towards low-key wheels that are charcoal or black normally, but the Casino is a cool looking design for a musclecar.

[fasttcars]

just to say i know my 8.5 rim with a 245/3518  on the front are max width..unless your car sit's higher

[MyCreation68]

after a couple hours last night and a big headache at the end(wheel stuff is confusing) of it I figured out a good combo.

Front:
18x9 American Racing Shelby Razor 12mm offset 5X4.5 bolt pattern and 5.5inch backspace(209.99 a wheel from jegs) with 225/40ZR18 Falken FK-452 tires(174.99 a tire from 1010tire.com)

Rear:
20X9 American Racing Shelby Razor 24mm offset 5X4.5 bolt pattern and 6inch backspace(229.99 a wheel from jegs) with 255/35ZR20 Falken FK-452 tires(189.99 a tire from 1010tire.com)

[fasttcars]

i also have to add..that since my car is lowered...the tops of the wheel wells had to be tweaked...and my springs also had to be relocated flush with the frame rail[even tho i didn't do that i put in ladder bar's]... i also had to use two 1/4 inch spacer's ...it gives me a total of a finger clearence on inner ..or outer wheel well.....those are also with 275/45 18's on the back

[Crazy68Dart]

With the alterk and b-body drum axles in my car, I ran 17X8 bullets, but I'll be switching to the 05+ versions with more offset. Using Mustang wheels is the best way to avoid expensive customs...

You do have to file a little bit on the rear wheels - the center register on these wheels is about .020 smaller than the mopar axle center. I just used a an 1/8" wheel spacer and it all worked out perfectly without grinding anything.

Bill, I am pretty sure I have asked you this before... but what size are your front tires, wheels, and backspacing?  The TT IIs I have are just to big, they are an 8" wheel, but there is no way with the tire I have that they will turn without clipping the fender.  Did you trim your fender?

[Bill_Reilly]

Fronts are 17X8 w/ 5.72 backspace, and NT450 tires - 225/50/17 - they actually measure 25.9" X 9.5 wide at the sidewall. Also, this is with Wilwoods, which are 1/4" wider than the iron rotors.  Here's a picture of one with the wheel turned. When the wheel is turned all the way, the top is really close to the fender at this ride height. I haven't been able to get it to hit while driving though. Maybe backing out of a crooked driveway or something.

I'm making a switch to 18's with the NT555RII tires because of some "upgrades" I'm doing. I'll need all the tire I can get.  By the math, I figured 18X9s w/ 6.34"BS with 285/35/18's will fit if I narrow the front track by 1/2" per side. Obviously, to do that, I'm working on some suspension ideas to narrow up the front track width.

On the upside, since I moved my wheelwells in the back already, I figured I can fit 18X10's w/7.27"BS and 305/35/18 tires without any further mods.

Hopefully that will be enough tire to keep me between the lines.



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[Bakaruda]

I like the shelby wheel.

[Crazy68Dart]

Fronts are 17X8 w/ 5.72 backspace, and NT450 tires - 225/50/17 - they actually measure 25.9" X 9.5 wide at the sidewall. Also, this is with Wilwoods, which are 1/4" wider than the iron rotors.  Here's a picture of one with the wheel turned. When the wheel is turned all the way, the top is really close to the fender at this ride height. I haven't been able to get it to hit while driving though. Maybe backing out of a crooked driveway or something.

I'm making a switch to 18's with the NT555RII tires because of some "upgrades" I'm doing. I'll need all the tire I can get.  By the math, I figured 18X9s w/ 6.34"BS with 285/35/18's will fit if I narrow the front track by 1/2" per side. Obviously, to do that, I'm working on some suspension ideas to narrow up the front track width.

On the upside, since I moved my wheelwells in the back already, I figured I can fit 18X10's w/7.27"BS and 305/35/18 tires without any further mods.

Hopefully that will be enough tire to keep me between the lines.

Yeah, I think you will be fine... 

So if I would stick with the same backspace as you, or say 5.75", being that I am 1/4" more narrow on each side, I would likely loose a little clearance to the rod end, correct?  But only at full lock, I think...  In case I upgrade the brakes at some point, I would hate to have to mess with the wheels again.

[Bill_Reilly]

Yea, you'd be a hair closer to the tie rod fully turned, and have a 1/4" extra fender clearance. Should all clear though.

[Crazy68Dart]

Well it looks like AR does not offer a 17x8" TH II with a 5.75 backspace, but they do offer a 5.5", which would work with my current brakes, but be very close if I ever upgrade.  I could get them made custom, but that is a lot of $$$.  Could maybe go with a 17x7", but the only backspace offered is 4".

Anyone thought of using a 16 up front and a 17 in the rear?

[Bill_Reilly]

try some wheels at this place - www.americanmuscle.com

[Crazy68Dart]

try some wheels at this place - www.americanmuscle.com

Wow, some pretty nice prices.  I already have the TH IIs for the rear, or I would probably get a set from there, cool.

[Evan]

Fronts are 17X8 w/ 5.72 backspace, and NT450 tires - 225/50/17 - they actually measure 25.9" X 9.5 wide at the sidewall. Also, this is with Wilwoods, which are 1/4" wider than the iron rotors.  Here's a picture of one with the wheel turned. When the wheel is turned all the way, the top is really close to the fender at this ride height. I haven't been able to get it to hit while driving though. Maybe backing out of a crooked driveway or something.

I'm making a switch to 18's with the NT555RII tires because of some "upgrades" I'm doing. I'll need all the tire I can get.  By the math, I figured 18X9s w/ 6.34"BS with 285/35/18's will fit if I narrow the front track by 1/2" per side. Obviously, to do that, I'm working on some suspension ideas to narrow up the front track width.

On the upside, since I moved my wheelwells in the back already, I figured I can fit 18X10's w/7.27"BS and 305/35/18 tires without any further mods.

Hopefully that will be enough tire to keep me between the lines.

Wow, must be some serious upgrades - 285's on the front??? Are you keeping it a secret or will you tell us what you're doing?

[nd2stopfastr]

u might want to look into putting 235's on the front, just my .02 , but i can explain why if you like

[pauly v.100]

just to say i know my 8.5 rim with a 245/3518  on the front are max width..unless your car sit's higher

hey fastcars, first, i like your val..sits really nice.
did you change spindles, or upper arms? looks like camber is off is why i ask. when i lowered my car its front wheels were kinda splayed out.
any info on how you lowered it would be appreciated.
aloha
  -p

[MyCreation68]

u might want to look into putting 235's on the front, just my .02 , but i can explain why if you like

if you wouldn't mind could you explain why?

[fasttcars]

just to say i know my 8.5 rim with a 245/3518  on the front are max width..unless your car sit's higher

hey fastcars, first, i like your val..sits really nice.
did you change spindles, or upper arms? looks like camber is off is why i ask. when i lowered my car its front wheels were kinda splayed out.
any info on how you lowered it would be appreciated.
aloha
  -p

not trying to steal the thread. ..  and thanks.on the complement...so first.i used stock 73 spindles.tubular control arms,coilover shock's[but still with t-bars...that are cranked all the way down with only half a turn for pressure...yes the chamber is stil a little out[picture makes it look even more so cause the way the wheel is siting on the curb]....but i already had to trim the fender for clearence so it can't be brought out any more....for the back i put in ladder bars i figured that would be better then lowering block's..plus i would of had to relocate the springs anyways this way i got the back to sit where i wanted to and still have a working suspension.....

[nd2stopfastr]

here's some food for thought :

1. the max rim width on the 225 is 9" and the measuring rim width on the 225 & the 235 is 8.5, if you mount these tires on a 9" rim the overall diameter would theoretically decrease by a few tenths of an inch thus making the 225 end up measuring less than 25"

2. the increased safety due to the increase of max weight also, bias tires had a much higher max weight and even though they are both reinforced, that extra 100+ lbs per tire might save your life especially when you think of the added weight of a bigger motor, i suppose their are exceptions, ie. if your car is 1/2 glass and you are actively reducing weight with other lightweight components. i just assume this isnt the case, most allout drag cars don't use 9" front rims.

[nd2stopfastr]

3. the sidewall might look radically different from front to rear due to it having to compensate for the decrease in tread width

4. the 235 has a larger contact patch and'll give you better dry performance

so to summarise, itll fit in the same hole, it'll be safer, and it'll give you better performance.  as for cosmetics, that's your own personal pref 

[Bill_Reilly]

No secret. My car wasn't really the nicest, a good 50 footer, but anymore, I really need a nice one for advertising at the shows with all my products in it - kind of the flagship showing what's possible.
  So I tore it back apart and it's heading for a nice body/paint job, and I'm working on taking it as radical for handling as possible without cutting the floor, and it has to use entirely parts that I sell here, at least for the suspension/brakes.
It's going to have a 600hp pump gas 520" megablock with a Viper T56, air ride, big brakes, hydroboost, a/c, my suspension all around, ect.  I know how my car behaved on the 275/50's with the 500hp 440 and a 727, so I know this 520/6spd is going to seriously fry tires and have alot of understeer in an a-body, so I'm going for the most serious tires I can possibly squeeze in there to try and offset the heavy nose/light rear problem.  For the car I'm building, an aluminum stroker smallblock would be a way better choice, but I just gotta have a bigblock.

[Evan]

awesome. i hope i make it to your side of the country some day so I can see it in person.

[Crazy68Dart]

No secret. My car wasn't really the nicest, a good 50 footer, but anymore, I really need a nice one for advertising at the shows with all my products in it - kind of the flagship showing what's possible.
  So I tore it back apart and it's heading for a nice body/paint job, and I'm working on taking it as radical for handling as possible without cutting the floor, and it has to use entirely parts that I sell here, at least for the suspension/brakes.
It's going to have a 600hp pump gas 520" megablock with a Viper T56, air ride, big brakes, hydroboost, a/c, my suspension all around, ect.  I know how my car behaved on the 275/50's with the 500hp 440 and a 727, so I know this 520/6spd is going to seriously fry tires and have alot of understeer in an a-body, so I'm going for the most serious tires I can possibly squeeze in there to try and offset the heavy nose/light rear problem.  For the car I'm building, an aluminum stroker smallblock would be a way better choice, but I just gotta have a bigblock.

Awesome Bill.  Same color?  I cannot wait to see the beast.

[Bill_Reilly]

Yea, same colors - I really like that color, I just hated the backyard body work...

[urchinhead]

So how much longer until your Green monster is going to be 'Feature of the Month?'