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Topic: What Rear End to Use (Read 757 times)
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7173Duster
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I'm looking for some opinions.
Which rear end would you go with and why?
Ford 9 inch or Dana 60
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Ace
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Probably does you no good, but I went with the Dana 60 because I had the housing. I don't think you could go wrong with either in my opinion, but I'd stick with the Dana as part of the "purist" in me.
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mopowers
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Use whats available. If you're starting from scratch, go to the local pick a part yard and look for a Dana 60 in a 3/4 ton ford or dodge truck. At lot of them have 4.10 gears. All you would have to do is get it narrowed with mopar ends and order new axles with the diff of your choice (ex. spool, locker, power-loc).
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota  |
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Ciscodog
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Depends on what you're building. There are a lot of 10 second cars running around with 8 3/4 rears.
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Ace
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All you would have to do is get it narrowed with mopar ends and order new axles with the diff of your choice (ex. spool, locker, power-loc).
Or you could put Ford 9" ends that have bigger bearings too. |
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mopowers
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How much power are you looking to make. If you're starting from scratch, build it stronger than you think you will need. That way when you feel like dropping a blown hemi in your car once you hit the lotto jackpot, you'll already have the rear for it.
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota |
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abqdart
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I'm gonna say it.....you could also use the Ford 8.8 from a 96-2000 Explorer, ranger or mustang. they are about 53" wide. they are offset to the pass a bit but no big deal for a street car. Just put one in a 65 and 66 mustang with 17 x 8s off of a new mustang. They come with disk brakes and if you look hard enough you can find them with limited slips. the Explorer and ranger had 3.73 and 4.10 gears. not hard at all and they take a bit of abuse as well. Forgot to mention $200 from end to end INCLUDING disk brakes! Oh, these ARE NOT my cars either so no talking  ......  |
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Rio Rancho N.M 87144
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blown71duster
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I assume if you are wanting one of these you are looking for strength, I compared the two myself and was told to make the nine inch strong you will have to replace everything aftermarket. I found I guy here locally for me that has dana's out of trucks he said he would sell me for $150 bare housing and with everything new for the good stuff I am looking at about $1900 complete less brakes, locker, 35 spline good axles all new bearings,gears etc.I found the dana to be cheaper when built to the same quality, And I don't have to get ribbed about having a ford rear in my mopar  |
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1971 Duster 440 Single turbo
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7173Duster
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I am looking at the strength part of the equation as well as the ease of gear changes. I currently have a 9" in my car with all stock parts except for the axles which are moser 28 spline. This setup was fine for my old motor, but the new motor came out just a little shy of 600 hp and I plan to add a trans brake next year which I know will really hit the rear hard. I didn't really consider the dana previously because I was using parts I had laying around. This time I will be building from scratch so I am looking at all options. I also have 8 3/4 housings and pigs but I don't know the hp limit on them or the availability of stronger center sections. I bracket race approximately 12 passes per week for 7 months of the year so it will be pushed a lot often, the car sees almost zero street duty. Does anyone know the weight difference between the dana and 9"? Also, I lean toward the 9" due to the ease of gear changes, I can keep two centers around and set my car up for 1/8 mile or 1/4 in just a couple of hours.
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Scampin
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Well, I just got this in yesterday... Powdercoated, girdled cap, 3.73 gears, powerlock diff, billet yoke, billet housing ends....Should hold up to the smallblock. The shipping weight was 285 with the pallet.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Soon to be: F-1 Procharged Scamp
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abqdart
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she's a pretty thing huh?
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Rio Rancho N.M 87144
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mopardude318
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Hey Scampin, did you have it narrowed some, or is it stock length?....Oh, by the way, Nice Piece!!
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1970 Dodge Dart, 408 sb, eddy heads, 4 spd, alterktion, 8 3/4
Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax. - David Charles Gedraitis
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GON_RACIN
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I'd use the 9 inch since you already have it. You could build a strong chunk for that 9 inch for less money than building a Dana 60 from scratch, and like you said the ability to swap gears on the 9 inch is a really nice feature.
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MyCreation68
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I actually found a 8.8 from a 1996-2000 at the local scrap yard. It'd be a steal if it wasn't buried under snow. They only want 80 bucks for a complete axle  |
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway.
-98 Dodge Ram SS/T 5.9L auto all stock
-92 Dodge Power Ram W250 5.9L CTD 5spd 4x4
-68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress
-46 Fargo
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Scampin
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Hey Scampin, did you have it narrowed some, or is it stock length?....Oh, by the way, Nice Piece!!
It's around 3" narrower than stock. I did this so I could buy off the shelf 17x11 wheels. |
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Soon to be: F-1 Procharged Scamp
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dart_451
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i have a 9inch,and never have a problem,i even have a strange jug to put in it.but it works so good and im so damn lazy.  |
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fasttcars
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ya if you want to change gears..and you already have the 9"..i'd stick with her[
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moparrr07
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a 9 inch or 8 3/4 are going to be about the same, put in whatever you have or can find easier, of course unless you dont want to put ford parts in your car  i wouldn't go with a dana unless your going to be putting down alot of power, and i mean alot, they are quite a bit heavier |
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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440dstr
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dana 60 is the bomb  |
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Logged
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duster+440+bottle+60=happiness
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chryco
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DANA
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Hemi Darts Rule !!!!!
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bluedart
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Dana 60's just don't break.  |
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chryco
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Dana 60's just don't break. Yeah , they do .  |
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Logged
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Hemi Darts Rule !!!!!
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moparrr07
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my dad ran low 10s with an 8 3/4 (about 630hp maybe) in his bracket duster, they are really strong, he had 4.56 gears with spool 489, and moser axles, green bearings, and all he ever broke was a small pinion, apparently, he missed the memo- dont worry about 8 3/4 not being strong enough- a dana 60 is quite a bit heavier and id only use it if you allready have one, as long as you have a 489 youll be fine, buy a set of axles, and install kit-
you can still change out centers
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Logged
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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MVRCorp
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I opted for a Strange Engineering Dana 60. All brand new.........$1,625.00 delivered. 3.73 ratio. Cheaper then I could find a 8-3/4 in Denver.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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MVRCorp
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More
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Logged
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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moparrr07
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from the tech archives:
A good street performance recipe is as follows. Use a b-body housing and have it narrowed "about" 5 inches less than an a-body width. B-body housings are still very cheap to start with, and if you get the brake parts, they have 2.5" wide drums vs. the a-body's 1.5" drums. You do at least need the b-body backing plates to upgrade the brakes. Next, give Moser, or your favorite axle place a call and get a set of heavy duty axles to fit your length, having the 4.5" bolt pattern, non-adjustable bearings, and the correct offset to compliment the b-body drum brakes. Doing all of this will end up around $500 without a center. For that, you'll have bullet-proof axles, bigger drum brakes, the more popular bolt pattern, and need less backspacing, so you can use any style of wheel you want. This isnt the cheapest way, but it will save you some headaches later on.
add even say a $400 center and your still less then a grand- plus its plenty strong and you can switch out centers and its what your car came with
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Logged
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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