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Topic: lower control arm rebuild (Read 669 times)
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x360x64dart
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 98
BigBlockDart.Com
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i have my whole front end apart and am rebuilding with the "g machine" kit all polyurethane from performance suspension components. while apart i plan to powder coat most components. my k member is already done and looks great. i am now stripping down my lowers and ran across this article http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tipstricks/155_0306_control_arms/index2.html It is basically a pre fabricated plate you weld on yourself to box your lowers. So i guess im just wondering if this exta strength is needed with an engine swap, or if their is even a need for it. what aplication would warrant the use of these, or are they not needed and just a waste of a buck and time, even though my lowers will already be srtipped down.
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It's almost a big block! Escondido,CA
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mopowers
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Or you could just make your own.  
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
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wickedfirefighter
Full Member
 
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Posts: 391
oroville, ca
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i built my own for my 71 dart .. it kinda gonna be a G machine and im building it for handling ..they do flex under hard handling turns and i got the tubular strut rods from BILL to stop some of the bushing flex.. i would do it .. its already apart and doesnt cost much .. 
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I have fourteen mopars and not even one is running ..
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
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A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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I made a set for Alan's Barracuda with an integral sway bar tab.
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7903 posts on old board.
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
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For most applications you would want another hole in the middle for the LCA bumper nut. Alan's car sits so low that the bumper has been removed.
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7903 posts on old board.
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fourspeed
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Or you could just make your own.
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b569rr
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My turn. I ended up slotting the adjusting nut. forgot that it gets burried inside the LCA.   I think most of us would recommend the Moog O.E LCA bushings over the Urethane for the lowers. Mancini sells them. Tom
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ski
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I think most of us would recommend the Moog O.E LCA bushings over the Urethane for the lowers. Mancini sells them.
Tom
Yes use the rubber bushings for the lowers. Tom, were you drinking domestic beer when you welded those? ski
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andyf
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Boxing the LCA is a good idea when you run a big anti-sway bar since the force of the anti-sway bar twists the LCA. The stock LCA is an open U shape and it doesn't resist twisting force nearly as well as a box shape will. I designed those LCA plates years ago and they have been very popular. So popular that I see Just Suspensions is selling a knock off. They put a star in the middle of theirs so it would be a little different than my design. Mancini Racing sells a lot of those plates and so does GregZ at www.magnumhp.com so either of those places usually have them in stock.
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abodyjoe
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My turn. I ended up slotting the adjusting nut. forgot that it gets burried inside the LCA.   I think most of us would recommend the Moog O.E LCA bushings over the Urethane for the lowers. Mancini sells them. Tom man do you lay down a sweet weld....
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moparrr07
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man do you lay down a sweet weld....
 maybe i will weld like that somday- do adding those plates really make a big difference? my front end is so stiff a firm i cant imagine if i put another $400 to stiffen it with shocks and sway bars
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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Drdodge
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i have my whole front end apart and am rebuilding with the "g machine" kit all polyurethane from performance suspension components. while apart i plan to powder coat most components. my k member is already done and looks great. i am now stripping down my lowers and ran across this article http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tipstricks/155_0306_control_arms/index2.html It is basically a pre fabricated plate you weld on yourself to box your lowers. So i guess im just wondering if this exta strength is needed with an engine swap, or if their is even a need for it. what aplication would warrant the use of these, or are they not needed and just a waste of a buck and time, even though my lowers will already be srtipped down. I have slammed down front ends on Low 9'sec runs with stock lowers ...they do well Shock towers and inner fender supports on the other hand...Need help~ Dont waste the time or money on "custom" pieces of steel If you must, just weld a tab at the very ends of the arm nearest the bushing and nearest the balljoint~
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Drdodge
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My turn. I ended up slotting the adjusting nut. forgot that it gets burried inside the LCA.   I think most of us would recommend the Moog O.E LCA bushings over the Urethane for the lowers. Mancini sells them. Tom Not bad but looks like you welded more to the steel plate then to the arm~
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
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A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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Drdodge, this is more of a handling improvement than one you would do for drag racing. Reference Andyf's post about the twist applied to the LCAs with a heavy sway bar.
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7903 posts on old board.
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
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Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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And Andy, I still think you need to sell some of your plates with the integral sway bar tabs. Mine are crude compared to yours.
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7903 posts on old board.
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Drdodge
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Drdodge, this is more of a handling improvement than one you would do for drag racing. Reference Andyf's post about the twist applied to the LCAs with a heavy sway bar.
No Need the tabs/plated in the area I posted will limt the twist as best that can be for a stamped LCA~  By the way jim did your son ever get his vert painted? Was 5 years since I saw it at the spring fling~
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b569rr
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Thanks. I used the 2" flat bar 'cause I had it laying around. Most of the heat was on the arm and I washed the plate in. It isn't going anywhere.  Tom
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
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Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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Nope, still in primer. It's on his wish list, but as long as he's playing college baseball (he's probably gonna hang 'em up after this season) he doesn't have the money to even think about it. Plus, it's just too much fun to drive to tear it apart again. We've actually got four convertibles that really need paint now and two more that kind of need it......
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7903 posts on old board.
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Drdodge
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Nope, still in primer. It's on his wish list, but as long as he's playing college baseball (he's probably gonna hang 'em up after this season) he doesn't have the money to even think about it. Plus, it's just too much fun to drive to tear it apart again. We've actually got four convertibles that really need paint now and two more that kind of need it......
Jim have you ever considered painting it yourself it's realy not a big deal and should only take a full weekend~ Prolly under 300.00$ for a single stage ...?
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evstraus
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Why use rubber over urethane 
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
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Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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Yeah, I've considered painting it as we've done a couple other cars (the results have been so-so), but there's still too much to do to get it ready and we'd really like to find better fenders. I've already got better doors for it. It's just not real high on the priority list. I'm also working on not having enough time, but enough money to pay somebody else to do it.
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7903 posts on old board.
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mopowers
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Why use rubber over urethane  I've heard it's hard to torque down the urethane ones because they just spin within the outer shells.
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66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
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Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
Offline
Posts: 4706
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
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You can torque down the urethanes, but the LCA likes to walk around on them.
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7903 posts on old board.
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