check out my new RMS rear suspension ..(pics)

[Bill_Reilly]

There is no weight savings from leafs, it's about the same. The main advantage is free movement, with geometry being a close second.  Leafs are severely binding by nature in the direction they shouldn't be, and kind of flexible in the direction they shouldn't be.
By using a separate spring, and pivoting links to locate and dictate the travel, motion is completely free, yet still prevents any side to side motion, allowing the tires to do their job without interference.  Roll resistance is more dictated by geometry than sway bars, so even though the rear will articulate by hand in the air, the actual roll resistance of the car isn't compromised.  I may do a sway bar at some point so understeer can be adjusted, but handling on the street improves immensely, even without one. By using 4 adjustable links with angled uppers, the rear can be moved anywhere in seconds - side to side, back and forth - a big plus when that last 1/8" of tire clearance is needed. Pinion angle is also adjusted in seconds, as is the ride height.
...Bang for buck is also high on my agenda, along with fitment - No cutting is important just because it's not a home garage thing, and adding complexity to the system adds alot of cost. The simple tri-4 bar is the simpest, least expensive way to get near the ideal wheel control on a rear axle.
keep in mind, drag racers wil fair much better with a real 4-link - going straight and turning corners both require a different set of adjustments, this is not the premium setup for maximum traction.

[Evan]

Mr Reilly, if and when you add a sway bar, will it fit with the kit you have now, or will it be part of a different rear kit? also, how big of a tire do you think would fit? thanks,   -Evan

[Glue]

Looks like a great kit!!!

[Bill_Reilly]

Well I invested alot in the shapes that build the existing kit, so any sway bar will surely be made to work around the existing design. There would probably be a weld-on bracket to attach it.

[mopar_vince]

Early A-ragtop kit on the horizon?

[urchinhead]

 

[Overdrive]

Early A's seem to be very similar, if not the same as the '67-up A's out back. I'd be interested in a setup for my '65 Valiant hardtop. This looks like a well ballanced suspension system.

[moparrr07]

thats a good link he posted, basically, ss spring are hard and 70s technology, work great for a launch but thats about it, the 4 link alows alot more movement and adjustability for the road course or street cruise 

[sycboi]

Is the kit the exact same pieces for a car with relocated springs?  If they are different can we see pics of the different parts, or maybe the pics of your car with the relocated placement?

[sycboi]

btt...

[Bill_Reilly]

Inboard, the parts are the same, except instead of using the new front hanger, you put the front link directly into the inboard box that's welded in. The upper links remain in the same position, so when the lowers are moved inboard, the tabs you weld on the axle end up between 2 of the ubolts. That was actually how I worked it out first on my own car, and then I moved them outboard to check fitment in the normal location.
...I looked around, but I don't have any pics of it at the inboard location... I will, once I get my car back - that's how I'm going to run it, but i won't have it back here for probably 3 or 4 months...

[Crazy68Dart]

Whats the advantage besides bigger tires w/o mini-tubbing & saving weight from leaf springs?Looks very Chevelle-like to me.1800 bucks & 400 bucks for S/S springs & relo kit is quite a bit different.Not trying to be a smart alleck,just want to know. BANG PER BUCK is high on my list for my project.I do realize the adjustments for instant center are a plus.

Looks VERY similar to my GM setup on my 80 Malibu.

Bill, nice setup.  How does it differ, other than the adjustibility, or is it the same basic principle?

[flyboy01]

There is no weight savings from leafs, it's about the same. The main advantage is free movement, with geometry being a close second.  Leafs are severely binding by nature in the direction they shouldn't be, and kind of flexible in the direction they shouldn't be.
 By using a separate spring, and pivoting links to locate and dictate the travel, motion is completely free, yet still prevents any side to side motion, allowing the tires to do their job without interference.  Roll resistance is more dictated by geometry than sway bars, so even though the rear will articulate by hand in the air, the actual roll resistance of the car isn't compromised.  I may do a sway bar at some point so understeer can be adjusted, but handling on the street improves immensely, even without one. By using 4 adjustable links with angled uppers, the rear can be moved anywhere in seconds - side to side, back and forth - a big plus when that last 1/8" of tire clearance is needed. Pinion angle is also adjusted in seconds, as is the ride height.
...Bang for buck is also high on my agenda, along with fitment - No cutting is important just because it's not a home garage thing, and adding complexity to the system adds alot of cost. The simple tri-4 bar is the simpest, least expensive way to get near the ideal wheel control on a rear axle.
keep in mind, drag racers wil fair much better with a real 4-link - going straight and turning corners both require a different set of adjustments, this is not the premium setup for maximum traction.

Bill, some questions specifically for you. What are the spring rates in the coilovers? Is this a stiff setup, cruiser, drag? How did you come up with the rates? Can we get optional spring rates? Who makes the coilovers? QA1? Sorry about all the questions, but you really got my attention with this kit.

I don't understand how this setup allows more tire to be used, the wheel wells stay the same width. Also, if you do adapt a swaybar, how about making it use an existing one, and just engineering a set of bolt on brackets.

[rtexpress]

Good job Bill!  It looks like a really nice setup sometime in the future you should consider evolving this or developing a strip verison for 10 second an slower cars.   I think there would be a good market for it even if it required a little more cutting and welding for what it costs now days to back half a car or even add ladder bars especally if you have to have it done in a shop.   It would be interesting to see how this setup would stack up against a system like Cal Tracs on a street/strip application.

[bbscamp]

AWESOME!!  Nice design Bill....great install picts Joe!   any real wheel alignment issues....or is the tape measure adequate accuracy?

[nd2stopfastr]

flyboy: i think because the tubing diameter is Smaller than the width of a spring itll clear better

[abodyjoe]

flyboy: i think because the tubing diameter is Smaller than the width of a spring itll clear better

  thats correct..

[abodyjoe]

AWESOME!! Nice design Bill....great install picts Joe! any real wheel alignment issues....or is the tape measure adequate accuracy?

  we did the tape measurer and it seems ok..  i'm gonna stick it uo on an alignment rack hopefully this week just for the hell of it..  i also want to set the ride height on a surface that i know is level...

[bbscamp]

Joe:  what are they, the newer cobra wheels?  16x10s? BS?  nice racing snorkel on the fill too!  let me know if you don't have plans for old leaf springs, I got a home for them on the yellow 73.

[abodyjoe]

the wheels that i tried on the car were a mustang bullit wheel..    17X8  5.72 back sapce..


  you don't want those lleaf springs.. they are 100,000 mile slant six springs..

[bbscamp]

  you don't want those lleaf springs.. they are 100,000 mile slant six springs..

    Man...no better than the 100K mile S6 springs I have on the 73 now!   I thought you might have upgraded somewhere in the past.....

Thats some deep BS on the wheels.   so they fit?  or too close to call.....

[abodyjoe]

  i was planning to goto the 6 leaf espo's like i did on jamie's car untill i saw the 4 bar kit on bills car... then i just had to have bills kit...



  no the wheels will fit with no problem..  i knew they would clear the lower bar because bill had them on his car.. i was worried about the stock wheel tubbs but it looks like i have pleanty of room there too..   i'l know for 100% whenever i buy a set...

[Evan]

with relocated springs, every piece on the axle will be moved in, so bigger tires would fit?

[Bill_Reilly]

Yes.

[Evan]

thanks. that looks like a sweet kit. i'll be getting one and an alterK someday! hopefully in the next year!

[CashA10]

When do you think these will be available?  I checked RMS's website, but fournd no listing yet.  Can I order just with a PM, or should I wait until they're available through "more conventional channels"?

Thanks
Mark

[abodyjoe]

When do you think these will be available? I checked RMS's website, but fournd no listing yet. Can I order just with a PM, or should I wait until they're available through "more conventional channels"?

Thanks
Mark

  they are avalible now..  just give bill a call and he will make up a kit and send it to you...  i know bill has been busy as hell.. probably hasen't had time to update the site...
-=----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 from the RMS site

 Our Daily Hours Are 9am - 6pm Eastern Time.

Phone - 570-443-7440

Our Current Mailing/Shipping Address is:

Reilly MotorSports, Inc.
2323 White Haven Rd.
White Haven, PA. 18661

[stan]

That looks real nice!!! I want one!!! How much ?? 

[abodyjoe]

That looks real nice!!! I want one!!! How much ??

This has been a project of mine for an extremely long time. I was bent on making a fully adjustable street kit with coils that still allowed the stock gas tank. Of course, this kit is only for the 67-up a-abodies. I use other stuff for the B/E's.  It worked out really nice though. It took us about 8 hours start to finish, but I admit it would be better to call it a weekend project.  I used in my carr last summer with good results, but Joes was the first one made on the jigs as a production piece, so I was worried about e-brake cables, brake lines, gas lines, ect - but it all went back into place pretty nice, everything fit the way I measured it to, so I can now say all the fab work is correct and accurate.   The brake line on the rear has to be rebent because the parts are very close to the old clips on the axle, but that's a minor item, so I'm happy with it all. TTI tailpipes do not fit, but there isn't much you can do about that - I felt it was better to keep the stock tank and allow custom tailpipes to be made. I'm not a fan of fuel cells on the street.
There will be 2 options - coil-over or air ride, and adjustable links like the pictures, or bushing-type links for more of a set-it-and-forget-it use.
Price will be 1795 with either link, and 1895 to get the air ride shock upgrade. After a year of research, it's exciting to finally see it a reality.
I wanted to keep it simple, so it took a while to find pivot points that offered a little anti-squat without any roll steer, and still had a roll center high enough that a sway wouldn't be needed.
Welding of course is required, but no critical measuring, and a cheapy angle finder from sears is needed to play with the pinion angle.
I do have a few kits pre-ordered that I have to get done, but otherwise, I could take an order for one now, and have it ready in two weeks.

[gocirino]

Joe,

I was the guy that picked up the front end kit and dropped off the SRT8 supension the day you were installing yours 4 link.

Now that you have had a chance to run it for a while could you provide any additional feedback  on ride quality, cornering, and how well it's working out or not for you.

Thanks,

John