HELP!!! disc brakes

[moparbubba]

I have a 64 Dart. I have access to 68 disc setup, but have been told there are no parts available for them. I want to keep the small bolt pattern. Anybody have experience with these?

[6469mopar]

CALL BILL REILLY, I THINK  HE CAN GET YOU A SET OF WILWOOD DISC BRAKE SET UP.

[qkcuda]

Those are the Kelsey Hayes 4 piston.  Stainless Steel Brakes makes their own version for a kit.  They also used these on Mustangs.  I think parts availability is a lot better now than it used to be.

[Jim_Lusk]

Parts availability is NOT a problem. Occassionally rotors can be expensive or hard to find.

[moparbubba]

Thanks for the feedback. ..........  Drum brakes suck........

[b569rr]

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=236
Requires 5 x 4.5 wheels though. 

[65valiant310]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-A-Body-Disc-Brake-Rotors-Dart-Duster-Barracuda_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ010QQitemZ200097158397QQrdZ1

[urchinhead]

I did what you're planning to do and swapped a junkyard set-up from a '71 Duster on to my '64 Dart. Rebuilt calipers cost me a pretty penny, but I had no problem finding the parts from my local auto store. You should make sure to get a new "dual bowl" master cylinder too, plug the end of the "T" and route new lines from the master cylinder to the "T"( for the front brakes ), and a new line for the rear going to an adjustable proportioning valve before it reaches the axle ( just mount it near the "T" and you can save your old rear brake line).

P.S. If you get rebuilt calipers, make sure not to lose the little clips that retain the pads, because they can cost more than $30 to replace. You can get parts from a Mustang shop as well, because as qkuda said, they are the same brakes used in early Mustangs ( Kelsey-Hayes four piston calipers with 11" rotors ).

[moparbubba]

Since you did what I'm going to do, I would like to pick you're brain. Does the top ball joint screw out? Does the bottom one press out?  Was it a really hard job to do???  Any comments appreciated.........Rich

[urchinhead]

I replaced the ball joints at the same time, along with the rest of the suspension "wear" parts. Make sure to order a larger ball joint from a later ( '67 or so ) A body, because the factory unit is too weak to support the heavier disc assembly.

The top ball joint can be unscrewed/screwed in with an impact and special socket ( Mancini sells them ) which is essentially square with rounded edges to precisely fit the joint. The bottom ball joint is sold as an assembly which includes the metal chunk that attaches to the tie rod(s).

If you buy a front end rebuild kit, Just Suspension has some nice pieces. I bought mine from from PST, and their products are average at best, their bump stops were so crappy I kept the stock ones on.

When you replace the upper arm bushings, you can press them out with a vice and some heavy tubing, and a few whacks with a hammer while the arm(s) held in the vice. It's not a hard job to do, but it can be time consuming if you want to do it right and don't have a lift. Let me know if I can help you with anything else,
                                                   Mike

[moparbubba]

Thanks for the help, Mike. I feel more confident now.     

[urchinhead]

Hey, no problem, feel free to P.M. me as well if I can help you with anything else.

[abdywgn]

Um,aren't the early disc brake upper ball joints the same as all the drum brake A-body ball joints?
Thought the 4.5" bolt pattern disc used a larger upper ball joint which is the same as B-E body drum brake.
Also,the lower ball joints are different between the A-body drum brakes and the K-H disc brakes.The 4.5"
bolt pattern disc are again a third style.Bob

[moparbubba]

The discs that I got have both control arms on them, so I will compare when I go to install. I think the 73 and up have the large ball joint This will b on the job training.......  

[moparbubba]

I didn't ask how to install the lower ball joints. Do I use the nut to draw it in, or use a hammer and a block of wood??    

[65s]

A monkey can switch over to the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes, they bolt right on.  You don't need to change your upper control arm. 

Rotors are a little hard to find, but they're out there, just look hard. 

Here's some resources here -> http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/394/1079.html?1170216847

[urchinhead]

I didn't ask how to install the lower ball joints. Do I use the nut to draw it in, or use a hammer and a block of wood??    

The lower ball joints don't need to be removed or installed, except as an entire unit. When you buy new ones, you'll receive ball joints already mated to the metal pieces where you bolt it to the steering linkage. I wouldn't say a monkey could do it, but it's not difficult. . .

You might as well replace the control arms, because the newer brake and suspension pieces are likely to be less rusted, so just choose which pieces look better, as the old(er) and ( relatively ) newer upper and lower control arms should be identical. Just have the calipers rebuilt ( usually a core trade with the auto parts store ), have the rotors turned, and buy new hoses. Make sure to re-use the caliper hard brake lines, as they can be expensive, and are probably OK (rebuilt calipers usually come "bare"). Make sure to keep the the clips that retain the pads, as those will usually not be found on a pair of rebuilt calipers either.

I may have misunderstood your question about the lower ball joints, looking back again . . . just push the rubber shield and ball joint assembly through the hole and tighten the nut once you can begin to manually thread it on. Be careful to torque it correctly ( 60lbs? I'm not sure off the top of my head ), installl the cotter pin/key and grease it up when you're done.

[moparbubba]

It sounds like the ball joint will slide through the hole in the lower control arm easy............. I hope

[urchinhead]

Now that I'm starting to remember back... okay, the bottom piece of metal ( with the ball joint attatched to it ) will bolt down at the bottom by the LCA, and the ball joint will be tightened into the bottom of the spindle. The tie rod end is attached to the middle of the back of the spindle ( toward the rear of the car ). I can take some pictures of my car this weekend if you need me to, I haven't had a chance to look at it, as my garage is not near where I live...

Make sure the ball joints are mated with the spindle.

[moparbubba]

Don't bother with pictures. I've got to show the car this car tomorrow, and on June 1st. After that I will tear into it. I think I'm overly concerned [scared] because front end work is uncharted territory for me. I'm reading everything I can on-line about the subject and feeling better. Thanks for all the help, and I will keep you're email address.......... just in-case