Paging Eldubb and Abody Joe...

[urchinhead]

Now that I'm getting close to painting my engine with epoxy and a urethane color, I would like to know your recipe or recommendation for painting technique / preparation as well as what tools you use.

I already have a 6hp air compressor, but I need to buy a paint gun, possibly a mixer, and of course - the actual paint. I figured that I can wire wheel, sand and degrease the block and heads, and then use mineral spirits to clean them thoroughly. My next mode of attack involves a propane torch, and then a light coat of epoxy primer. From then on, I can paint the metal with a second, heavier and more full coat of epoxy primer.
Finally I would paint everything with a urethane color ( light first coat, heavier second), and finally a clear coat.

I suppose what I really want to know, besides if I have the right idea, is: What gun to use @ what p.s.i., and what am I missing, or should omit. You guys have some beautiful engines, and I want mine to look the same.

[eldubb440]

i final cleaned mine with brake clean, and blew it off real good.......2 even coats of epoxy primer, not real heavy(i used u-tech).......i painted it the next day, tech sheets gives 72 hours window....i suggest not using clearcoat. i used single stage urethane (u-tech 3.8 in my case). .......3 even coats about 10 minutes apart or when tacky. if its covered you are done......any paint gun will work. id keep the pressure as low as possible. adjust the amount of liquid down to work with the low pressure. play with the adjustments on the gun, its easy to figure out. theres also an adjustment to make the "fan" wide or narrow. i narrow it up to get into the tight spots....... play with the gun on a test panel, understanding how the gun is functions makes using it alot easier.

[abodyjoe]

i used a scotch brite pad and brake-kleen to clean my motor and a ton of shop towels...

i used U-Tech   E360 epoxy primer on it..
http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=435

 not sure on the details on the paint gun because it was djvcuda's.  its  lphv gun i think..


we  used U-Tech 3.8 paint...  heres a link to the paint system  http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=452


its a high solids urathane.

here is all the info from the lable of the street hemi orange we used..


yr. 1960 mfg: dupont code: 5067u

color: orange

sfx: k sys: 4 voc: 0.36

mixed 10-23-04

contains lead.

[urchinhead]

Thanks for the info guys. I tried the links, but they won't work. I also tried a google search, and it wasn't so hot either. Is the paint from Eastern Europe, where they still regularly mix lead paint? I got a few search results for akzon-noble that were in a Slavic language. 

[urchinhead]

I used a Moparts (  ) link and got to the U-Tech home page. I'll just go ahead and order, but should I look for a specific paint system in their catalog? And if you could recommend a specific gun from a specific company, I would greatful, as I'm new to non-spray can painting.

P.S. I found the E360 primer as well as the 3.8 orange on the U-Tech site, but I don't see a link to order it online, just a 1-800 number. Is there a web site that you ordered from ( I know that I could just call, but it looks like they normally deal with larger, commercial orders )?

[eldubb440]

we used u-tech cuz its available local.......find out what your paint supplier sells.....every brand such as dupont, u-tech, ppg, ect will have an epoxy and a single stage (non clearcoat) urethane. follow directions. just get a cheapo harbor freight gun; eithe syphon or gravity feed it dont matter. gravity feed is a litle nicer to work with. no need to spend big bucks on a paint gun. spraying from a gun isnt complicated.

[urchinhead]

Thanks again, I'm just a bit of a perfectionist, and I don't want to F#*k it up...

[sunsetdart]

Before you get to the point of applying the paint, I highly recommend using either a good lacquer thinner or acetone to prep the surface. I have nothing against using brake cleaner, but have had some bad reactions under paint and have stopped using it as a prep. It will leave a residual film on the surface and overtime, it may, and I say may, react with the topcoat paint. Acetone is the best cleaner as it leaves no residue on bare metal and removes any grease. FYI.....if you get into doing body work, however, don't use acetone for body prep, use a good pre cleaner they sell at the local body shops, Use the acetone on only motor parts to be painted.
   I would get an HVLP gun, there are many on the market.Devillbiss is a good one. You say you have a compressor, so remember , when you paint and the paint requires a specific pressure, for every foot of hose you have from the gun to compressor, you will have a drop in pressure of 2 lbs per foot. So if the paint requires 50 lbs of pressure, and you have 50ft of hose, you are going to lose 10 lbs of pressure to the gun and you will be shooting at 40lbs, not 50. I also recommend putting a pressure gauge at the gun to be able to regulate the pressure, so when you squeeze the trigger, you can see what exact pressure you are shooting, and regulate it from there.

[DJVCuda]

I used a devilbiss HVLP finishline from eastwood... has it since 1999 and love it...

the u-tech 3.8 is thier hi solids paint.. they make it for trucks, fleet vehicles that take alot of abuse and the stuff works great = i'd recommend calling the 800 number and findinf a local distrubutor...

[ValiantOne]

Urchinhead, what purpose is the propane torch for?

When prepping the block, heads etc, is it necessary to get every bit of old paint off? As for stamped steel parts like stock valve covers, I was thinking about sand blasting them. Does that make sense.

Thanks guys,

Chris E.

[flyboy01]

I have always heard that heating the metal to be painted (heads & block) with a torch will help to burn off any residual oil and grease.

[ValiantOne]

You know, that is what I was thinking (about the torch). The only reason I bring it up is, I was reading up on welding last night and they say that even with moulten metal temps you can't burn off oil or rust and that it would contaminate your weld. So I figured if 3K and up won't do it, a propane torch won't either. That make sense.

Then I was thinking maybe the heating was to cure paint or primer.

Anyhow, just thinking out loud.

Chris

[flyboy01]

It might also be to pull junk out of the pores, but I don't entirely agree, I know you can burn off oil, unless it is an ashless dispesant type (used in aircraft engines), it turns to ash anmd smoke, so it will seperate from the metal. The heating should also help the paint to cure on the metal better and quicker.

[abodyjoe]

i wouldn't go crazy with a torch and stuff like that...  you can get it pleanty clean with scotch brite, little wire brushes and shop paper towels along with brake-kleen....




  this is the mess i started with...






after a few hours of cleaning...







primed...




painted




ready to go..







and this is a few weeks ago... almost 2 full years later..  this day i had just put the valve covers on that were painted last year..  look how good the paint still matches...   that shit really holds up well..

[urchinhead]

Should I buy one gun for the epoxy primer and another one for the urethane topcoat? What about the DeVilbiss JGA-HVLP Gravity Gun Kit with 2 tips and regulator? It says in the catalog that it is a "workhorse... ideal for quality fleet and production finishes." Besides the FinishLine gun, there is a Binks M1-G Gravity Feed Top Coat HVLP Gun that is listed as suitable for base coats, clear coats, single stages and water-borne coatings. Right now, all I have is a compressor and some air lines.

[eldubb440]

spend yer money on quality materials.......dont waste it on expensive guns, ...... buy a pair of 40 dollar guns. they work fine....... i throw em away when they get too f#@ked up, and buy a new one.......

[A13Dart]

I have always heard that heating the metal to be painted (heads & block) with a torch will help to burn off any residual oil and grease.

flashing a propane torch over the block and heads will pull out moisture on cast material, Except for you guys that live in low humidity areas.

[DJVCuda]

i use the same gun for both with a 1.2 fluid tip

less volume for the epoxy - its thick anyway

heres my dads 383....





heres my motor...

almost 3 years ago


and the paint lasted thru this fire....