subframe connectors? install tips?

[MyCreation68]

My dad was saying when I go and install frame connectors on my 68 I'll need to leave the weight on the wheels. Is that correct? Would it work right having the stock suspension on the car even if I'm going to run bill's suspension front and rear once I get the car body fixed that will be the next thing on my list.

[Evan]

that will be just fine. its mainly to have the weight on the car and have the suspension loaded and chassis tweaked just like it will be when it is put together.

[Capt Jack]

but youre also supposed to be sure its level, correct?

not to sound dumb but how exactly do you do both?

[Jims71duster]

but youre also supposed to be sure its level, correct?

not to sound dumb but how exactly do you do both?


I've heard that the motor,tranny tires and everything have to be in and the car on the floor,,,BUT,, theres that word. what if your rear springs arn't perfect or you torsion bars arn't set identicle then the car will not sit level. I might have screwed up but I used 4 jack stands,,2 big ones under the rear frame ahead of the bumper and 2 smaller ones on the front frame just forward of the torsion mount.just make sure it does not flex in the middle when you put the weight on the rear jacks. I had No motor or tranny in the car. Plz don't act on what I did until you get more responses just in case what I did was wrong. Good luck and I pray I didnt mess mine up

[Jim_Lusk]

We had nothing installed in Jeff's Dart when I installed the connectors. No drivetrain, no front suspension, no rearend, no interior, no top, no front sheetmetal. I couldn't even tell you if we had the door latches in place, but we probably did. The car was supported with four jackstands on the subframes. The doors shut fine and the body lines are fine. Now, it would be better if you have a four-post lift like a muffler shop has, btu you gotta do what you gotta do.

[MyCreation68]

Do I have to lay a complete bead on the connector or would it be good enough just to lay a couple little beads and finish up when I get the car on the rotisserrie?

[Capt Jack]

ok, so what Im getting is it should be level but its not completely necessary to go to extraordinary lengths to do so.  that is, laser levels, bob weights, squaring lines on the floor blah blah...

sooo...

1) get it the way I want it to sit
2) put enough support under it to keep it solidly still, but not lifted or twisted
3) have at it. 

[mopar_eric]

I had my car on jackstands in the front and on the rear axle when I welded mine in. Came out real nice my driver side door closes better than it did before

[Capt Jack]

jackstands actually supporting the weight or just keeping it good and solid on the ground?

[Tacfire11]

What's your thoughts on the Weld in, versus Bolt on Connectors?   Also following the threads, if any alignment issues show up (doors not shutting properly, etc.), can't you adjust the hinges or is that a bad thing? 

[Capt Jack]

from all accounts, weld in is more effective.  Im going the bolt in's intially with intent to get them welded in later on.

Im thinking they actually should have arrived by now....dammit. 

[74swinger]

We had nothing installed in Jeff's Dart when I installed the connectors. No drivetrain, no front suspension, no rearend, no interior, no top, no front sheetmetal. I couldn't even tell you if we had the door latches in place, but we probably did. The car was supported with four jackstands on the subframes. The doors shut fine and the body lines are fine. Now, it would be better if you have a four-post lift like a muffler shop has, btu you gotta do what you gotta do.

I did mine the same way, no suspension (left the K-frame bolted in though), no wheels, no springs, no bumpers or fenders.  But I left the doors on and shut.  Six jack stands supporting the car, door gap never changed, doors work fine....

And I did the supports after I relocated the springs into the frames.............

[MyCreation68]

Thats what I was going to do. Leave the doors installed and weld the connectors in. My 68's a slant six car so I don't think there will be much twist in the frame. Why would I need to have weight on the car to weld them in anyways? I know to have the body sitting the way it should but why would that matter on a slant 6 car? anyone have any pictures of the frame connectors put on the side so that the 3" section is up and down? does anyone know if I'd have interference with my bucket seat frames

[moparrr07]

i am going to disagree with what has been said so far,

i would put jack stands on the frame under the firewall, and the rear wheels on the ground, this still keeps it from twisting but allowing it to take the sag out that has accumulated over the year, made famous with unibodies

more benefits- doors fit better, and the top of the windows seal alot tighter, less wind noise,

cheak to see how your front end is in relation to the back half- this happens more with fords and chevys than our solid mopars however- just a thought

[MyCreation68]

i am going to disagree with what has been said so far,

i would put jack stands on the frame under the firewall, and the rear wheels on the ground, this still keeps it from twisting but allowing it to take the sag out that has accumulated over the year, made famous with unibodies

more benefits- doors fit better, and the top of the windows seal alot tighter, less wind noise,

cheak to see how your front end is in relation to the back half- this happens more with fords and chevys than our solid mopars however- just a thought

now would that to be with or without engine/trans and front suspension on?

[Tacfire11]

that's an interesting idea, but Man after spending some time under the Dart with the Rear wheels on the ground, not alot of head room to work around. How would you recommend hitting the top of the butt flange (cut an access patch through the floor pan I guess)?  Anyone done it different.   

[moparrr07]

they did it on musclecar tv with the engine in, more weight to bend it back, i guess depends how bad it is now- that was a tin can nova though

[mopowers]

I just got done installing mine not too long ago.  I just put jack stand under the frame in front (just in front of the firewall) and under the frame where the front spring hanger has been relocated.  The doors shut perfectly.  This is all I had on the car when they were installed; pretty much a shell:

 

anyone have any pictures of the frame connectors put on the side so that the 3" section is up and down?

I did mine this way.  I did it mainly because it seems stronger (even though it probably insn't that much stronger).  Plus, I wanted a wider surface to mount the kickers connecting the subframe to the rocker panels to.  This makes a great place to weld a main hoop of a roll cage to.  Which I'll be doing this weekend.  Here are some progress pics of the install:

[MyCreation68]

thats the way I was going to do it and was planning on doing it that way because if I use a rotisserie it would be so much easier to just flip the car over and weld in the connectors.

[Two Lane]

Some frame connectors are tubular, some rectangular.

Pros/Cons for each?

[Tacfire11]

My Apologies, I cut out the images to save space (just scroll up if you really want to see the pictures again )

Really loved the Mods you showed, I just bought 2x3 Steel (3/16" thick), will this be too much for the frame connectors?  Would you happen to know if the floor pan mods would be the same on a 68' Dart.  I noticed that you used Square Tube, whereas I opt'd for Rectangular to hopefully avoid any heavy mods, although that may be unavoidable.  Any thoughts one way or the other? 

I just got done installing mine not too long ago.  I just put jack stand under the frame in front (just in front of the firewall) and under the frame where the front spring hanger has been relocated.  The doors shut perfectly.  This is all I had on the car when they were installed; pretty much a shell:







 

[74swinger]

I used 2x3x1/8", but I put mine down so they were 2" tall and 3" wide.  Fits better in my 74 Swinger.  I'll post a pic or two of them installed later.  Don't have the photos on this computer.

BTW, my Swinger was an OEM 318 smog motor, no power, never crunched, frame twist is just some pessimist's theory.  Why would you load up the car to some fake position and try to weld the connectors in?  The connectors tie the front and rear frames together (although not as good as a cage).  If the doors fit well during the installation process, forget it.

[flyboy01]

i am going to disagree with what has been said so far,

i would put jack stands on the frame under the firewall, and the rear wheels on the ground, this still keeps it from twisting but allowing it to take the sag out that has accumulated over the year, made famous with unibodies

more benefits- doors fit better, and the top of the windows seal alot tighter, less wind noise,

cheak to see how your front end is in relation to the back half- this happens more with fords and chevys than our solid mopars however- just a thought

  take the sag out before you weld them in.

[bbscamp]

I welded in some 1x2s with only a bar shell.  No motor/trans/rear/doors/fenders....AND its up on a 2 post lift!   Damn thing is SO light..the front is chained to the lift arms.  That body is a neutral as its going to get.  we'll see how it goes when I put the doors and fenders on over the next few days!

[djwhog]

Question on this subject. I am using the Mopar made units on the 64 Dart. They are offset on the rear part that stradles the frame. Which side of the offset is the right and which is the left?

I mean does the offset of the box in the rear face to the inside of the under body?

thanks!