Pages: [1]
|
 |
|
Author
|
Topic: A-body Dart 440 BB Shock tower brace (Read 758 times)
|
hyperdart
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 30
BigBlockDart.Com
|
Does anybody have a pictures of, or made a shock tower brace to support the shock towers from flexing inward. ![\/][](http://www.bigblockdart.com/Smileys/classic/finger020.gif) ..As i had to cut out the front inner part of the fender well away to use the fenderwell Hooker Supercomp Headers. In so doing i have lost some shock tower support and now the upper shocks have a little flexing....I heard of guys with Big Block in A-body, Darts, Dusters,Baracuda's.ect. Using a shock tower support or as in the import world called: a strut tower brace...I have a six point cage; frame connectors...But don't want to go through the fire walls to weld bars in, as i won't have the space to remove the headers, if need be...Please help guys/Gals as the flexing cant be good for handleing with a 600 Hp  Engine going down the street...As this car is only a pro street car and not a full out race car as some may think it to be.....Thanks for any assistance you all may provide.  Chow,Brian Beck. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
GLENNP
|
I don't think having the inner aprons cut out without having a bar at least from the engine bay side of the firewall is a good idea. Your frame rails now have no vertical support. The upper shock mount could be made with a U shaped tube welded to the frame rail, but I would worry about rail support first. The rails were designed to work with all the engine bay sheet metal. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
480 old posts. Almost a God. If it doesn't make you go faster.......sell it to the the original resto geeks.
|
|
|
Jim_Lusk
Official BS King
Global Moderator
BBD God
   
Online
Posts: 4853
A-bodies since 1978, this one since 1983
|
You cut out the front? Should be the rear for the headers. If your cut was only what was required you're probably ok. A solution to the flexing might be a pair of side bars from the shock tower down to the frame.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
7903 posts on old board.
|
|
|
|
GLENNP
|
Oops didn't read front. There are a lot of pics in the gallery. I have 6-8 of them saved to my favs. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
480 old posts. Almost a God. If it doesn't make you go faster.......sell it to the the original resto geeks.
|
|
|
|
dusterdarryl
|
you may have to go thru the fire wall but it makes it stiff as can be, probly better than stock
[attachment deleted by admin]
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Shift as hard as you like, just dont break your arm... (George Hurst)
|
|
|
|
Blue
|
If you mount those bars about 6" higher on the rear (on the heater plenum) you can get fenderwell headers in and out no problem, did mine that way.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"The man that say's nothing is impossible has never tried slamming a revolving door"
|
|
|
|
dusterdarryl
|
I dont have any problems with my Hooker f/exits, infact they are a snap to put in & out with a RB engine in the car 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Shift as hard as you like, just dont break your arm... (George Hurst)
|
|
|
|
Midnight Special
|
Heres a few additional pics
[attachment deleted by admin]
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The MIDNIGHT SPECIAL RACING FamilyWichita Kansas AreaNHRA/SFI Tech InspectorNHRA Division V
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1]
|
|
|
 |