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Topic: Where to cut? (Read 464 times)
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Mopartist
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I started removing paint from my Dart to see just how much cancer needs repair. Is it better to join the patch with a body line? (easier to hide?)  |
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sunsetdart
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Much easier to use a body line. When patching, remember to flange both pieces of sheet metal, that way you get a stronger patch and you can hole punch it to spot weld it together for a tighter bond.
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Bakaruda
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I agree. I would do the complete quarter.
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Cary Snyder 5.7L Hemi Cuda  |
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NYrr496
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I have the Year One quarters for my roadrunner. Two body guys told me exactly the same thing. Both said don't use the entire panel because (for my car anyway) the repair will be right on top of the fender in plain sight. I'm probably going to do it 1" below the body line at the top of the side. I know Darts don't have that. I would find someplace that's the least conspicuous.
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Logged
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It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
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68dodge
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Do it with the body line, it does a nicer job.
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jamesdart
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a body line will help to keep it straight while welding, but you dont want to weld right on the line. i personally would try to use as little of the new 1/4 panel as posible. they really suck compared to the original stuff if you want it super straight, the lines are just not there. now if yours are already banged up then you might as well use the whole 1/4. the flange they put on the top is only meant to keep them straight, so they dont fold in half, it is not meant to be installed like that.
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moparrr07
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id do it at the body line for an easier transition, but id rather keep as much of the original metal as i can
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'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4
brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft.
cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
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AA-slingshot
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Don't lap weld the panel...but weld it. That way you cannot get moisture in behind the seam causing the paint to bubble. Now go ask 29 more people and get 29 more ways to do it.  |
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kuztomz
Full Member
 Offline
Posts: 149
damn cats
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Don't lap weld the panel...but weld it. That way you cannot get moisture in behind the seam causing the paint to bubble. Now go ask 29 more people and get 29 more ways to do it.  I'd butt weld it too, and a smaller area |
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sunsetdart
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I also forgot to say that when after flanging the panel, take it down to bare metal and then apply a coat of weldable primer. Then when you weld it there is no chance of moisture getting under the weld.
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375InStroke
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Don't forget to stitch weld. That's where you weld short beads, like one inch or less, in different parts of the panel to prevent heat warping. Keep going around until all the beads join up. It doesn't have to look pretty. The grinder fixes that. You do want quality welds, though.
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A13Dart
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I would try to stay under the body line. I don't like trying to reconstruct lines. For rust repair you need to remove the bad metal, but I don't see the sense in removing good metal.
Just my 2 cents from the "rust belt".
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signet
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seeing that you have access to the other side of the panel i would chop out only what is needed to remove the crust.
oh ya and butt weld for ease of leveling the metal with the hammer and dolly.
have you ever done this type of repair before?
you could allways cut an old fender in two with a cut off wheel and get some practice doing the butt weld.
pretty big job ahead of you thats for sure.
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Mopartist
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seeing that you have access to the other side of the panel i would chop out only what is needed to remove the crust.
oh ya and butt weld for ease of leveling the metal with the hammer and dolly.
have you ever done this type of repair before?
you could allways cut an old fender in two with a cut off wheel and get some practice doing the butt weld.
pretty big job ahead of you thats for sure.
Yep; this is my first panel replacemant; and I'm new at welding. I do have my old wheelhouses I can practice on. (I'm installing Chassisworks tubs after the panels are on) |
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motorhead446
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theres a helpful website called autobody101.com that couls help. One of the mopar mags did a tech article on this awhile back, check their archives, I think is was mopar muscle. I put a half qtr on my duster, I butt welded it, I "pulsed" each weld until i could string a bead about 3/8". I cooled each weld with a damp rag so I could work faster. I have some picks I could email if it will help.
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Mopartist
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theres a helpful website called autobody101.com that couls help. One of the mopar mags did a tech article on this awhile back, check their archives, I think is was mopar muscle. I put a half qtr on my duster, I butt welded it, I "pulsed" each weld until i could string a bead about 3/8". I cooled each weld with a damp rag so I could work faster. I have some picks I could email if it will help.
Some pics would be great! Thanks! racefan@bendbroadband.com-Ken |
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Pages: [1] 
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fender fix.jpg
