Cal trac Plans

[Mopartist]

I was lookin around on Ebay, and came across some plans for building your own Caltracs. So for 10 bucks, I ordered them.  Has anyone used these? (Just curious)

[mopowers]

These aren't the plans are they?

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

I built my own set just because the steel was free.  I still cost about $65 for 3/4 heim joints and grade hardware.  I did change thing up a bit.

[Mopartist]

I actually like these plans better Evan! Mine are just copies of the blueprinted individual pieces of a Caltrac which really doesn't show me the entire assembly and how it interacts with the leaf torque. Quite confusing to the novice like myself. Before coming to this website, I had never even heard of Caltracs until seeing them mentioned in a different thread; but was somewhat familiar with the old school traction bars. I figured if I had some drawn up plans; I could devise my own ideas of something in between the old school and the new.  These ones that you have are straight forward and clear. Thanks man! (I'm brainstorming now) 

[cuda69fastback]

I made a half dozen copies of the cal-tracs, little changes in mine also. No complaints, actually I dont have time to make anymore. But any variation of them is going to be better than springs and snubber. Im have concerns about the floaters and ladder links i just put in. Dont know what to exspect, little unnerveing maybe. Good-luck........  Red   

[flyboy01]

I like those palns, I had a set of real Caltracs before, they were designed for racing, but not street use. These might be the ticket for my Dart, they look better suited to street use.

[73swinger]

isn't there a link on this site?http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

[CARNUT]

here they are for free just scroll down to the bottom
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

[dodgedemon1]

Looked like he moved his rear end back is that part of the deal with cal tracs just wonderning.

[birdboy]

i have caltrac on the duster but there is a new brand out there that are called maxtrac. the only thing different is they added a a hole up front and one in the back. there's a trick to setting up the caltracs. this might sound stupid but it's worked ever time. set the car on level ground open the drivers door and put a nickal on the springs were the stopper hits it.  adjust intill the stopper just hits the nickal and stop. lock every thing down and your good to go.  i learned this from a guy that races one of the pro headsup classes.

[robx4406]

What exactly is different from the plans at the hot rod site?  Would you mind scanning the blueprints and sending them to people interested in seeing what those changes might be?

Thanks

[Mopartist]

I would, but the guy has them copywritten.

[robx4406]

That's a riot...  Guy takes a patented product, draws up the plans and copyrights them.  Priceless!!!   

I wonder if it even a valid/registered copyright.

Could you describe the differences between the plans.  I know that's not subject ot copyright infringement.

Thanks

[Mopartist]

I know! How about that bozo. Anyways; as I has said; he has broken it down and drafted every detail. It's actually pretty good; and not bad for 10 bucks (Although I don't think my metalworking skills could pull this off)

[guzzimike]

OK, two questions..

Assuming a mostly street-use car..

1) How are these Cal-Tracs better functinally than the OEM Pinion Snubber, and

2) How are they an improvement worth the cost over these $40.00 units:

[moparrr07]

alot less slack (alot more efficient) and they look alot cooler than a giant piece of yellow steel hanging under your springs

[guzzimike]

alot less slack (alot more efficient) and they look alot cooler than a giant piece of yellow steel hanging under your springs

Well......



They do have them in Chrome...  

[moparrr07]

thats true, but they also allow tuning

[Mopartist]

Ya know; I might just go with the old school type of traction bar and paint it black.........I hear music........."I see a yellow bar and I want it pain-ted black........."

[Grancoupe]

Would i be correct in assuming that the pinion snubber is no longer needed when the Caltracs are on?

[moparrr07]

correct

[flyboy01]

The caltracks work because they transfer weight and force in the chassis and control shock, they actually cause the force the axle to be transmitted forward to lift the front end while controlling rear axle movement.

When I was racing my Dakota about 8 years ago, I had tons of problems with traction because of the flexy frame, long leaf springs, and light back end. Drag radials seemed as slippery as street tires. So I decided to do some slow motion filming of my rear end and tractyion bar setup so we could study what was happening and why the total lack of traction. I tried 3 different traction systems and ended up with the Caltracs.

Traction (slapper) bars prevent axle wrap. But they do not control chassis movement and they allow a bounce back which can unload the tire. I first ran a HD inverted leaf just like the SRT10 rams use, but this was worthless, too soft and did nothing but reduce some wheel hop with no increased traction. But some wheelhop still was there, I was running 14.30's @ 103

The next was a Lakewood style bolt on traction bar. When I was launching, the bar would come up and the snubber would contact the front of the leaf, then, about 6 feet out, after loading the chassis, suspension, and tires, the bar would tend to spring back and unload the tires. Loosing any tracxtion I had, even drag radials could not keep contact with the track. Though a little better, I was able to get 13.70's @ 104.

Next came the Caltracs. With drag radials, I did a burnout, brought the rpms up to 2000, and bogged horribly. The next run, I dropped the pressure in the D/R's to 12lbs and launched at 3500. DAMN! It took off, I hit 2nd gear, BANG! A sickening feeling came over me as I coasted to the side. Broke the trans, 2nd gear gone. We managed to get the trans into 3rd gear, and I drove it home like that. We pulled the trans and took it to Liberty trans, a week later and $350 ($340 labor, $10 parts) they told me that I broke the 2ND gear shift pawl.

It was fall now and we had nice cool weather, I went back to Milan Dragway. I lined up, all as before, 12lbs, 3500rpm. Green light, TINK! ? No movement? I put it in reverse, I was moving back, but something was wrong, someone shouted for me to stop. I got out, looked back, and my rear tire was sticking out 12" past the fender, clearly a broken axle. I decided I was not going to mess with the 8 1/4 anymore, I started building an 8 3/4 over the winter. This time, I would spare no expense, I took the hosing to Reider Racing and had them make it indestructable, at least to a 400hp/400ftlb 360ci engine. They built it to about 600lft/700hp level they told me, everything new inside, 489 case, 3.91 gears, Strange axles, Moroso studs, Auburn diff (I think?), and green bearings. I also put on a set of 11" drums while we were at it. Unfortunately it was winter in Michigan. I had to wait to spring, but unfortunately, I was finishing school in my final year and I was taking a full load spring and summer, then in the fall, I decided that I had to leave the state to get a better job. I had to sell the Dakota for moving expenses. 

Unfortunately I never got to fully wring out the Caltracs, but I did know they worked, they gave me better traction, enough to keep breaking stuff!

[Mopartist]

The caltracks work because they transfer weight and force in the chassis and control shock, they actually cause the force the axle to be transmitted forward to lift the front end while controlling rear axle movement.

When I was racing my Dakota about 8 years ago, I had tons of problems with traction because of the flexy frame, long leaf springs, and light back end. Drag radials seemed as slippery as street tires. So I decided to do some slow motion filming of my rear end and tractyion bar setup so we could study what was happening and why the total lack of traction. I tried 3 different traction systems and ended up with the Caltracs.

Traction (slapper) bars prevent axle wrap. But they do not control chassis movement and they allow a bounce back which can unload the tire. I first ran a HD inverted leaf just like the SRT10 rams use, but this was worthless, too soft and did nothing but reduce some wheel hop with no increased traction. But some wheelhop still was there, I was running 14.30's @ 103

The next was a Lakewood style bolt on traction bar. When I was launching, the bar would come up and the snubber would contact the front of the leaf, then, about 6 feet out, after loading the chassis, suspension, and tires, the bar would tend to spring back and unload the tires. Loosing any tracxtion I had, even drag radials could not keep contact with the track. Though a little better, I was able to get 13.70's @ 104.

Next came the Caltracs. With drag radials, I did a burnout, brought the rpms up to 2000, and bogged horribly. The next run, I dropped the pressure in the D/R's to 12lbs and launched at 3500. DAMN! It took off, I hit 2nd gear, BANG! A sickening feeling came over me as I coasted to the side. Broke the trans, 2nd gear gone. We managed to get the trans into 3rd gear, and I drove it home like that. We pulled the trans and took it to Liberty trans, a week later and $350 ($340 labor, $10 parts) they told me that I broke the 2ND gear shift pawl.

It was fall now and we had nice cool weather, I went back to Milan Dragway. I lined up, all as before, 12lbs, 3500rpm. Green light, TINK! ? No movement? I put it in reverse, I was moving back, but something was wrong, someone shouted for me to stop. I got out, looked back, and my rear tire was sticking out 12" past the fender, clearly a broken axle. I decided I was not going to mess with the 8 1/4 anymore, I started building an 8 3/4 over the winter. This time, I would spare no expense, I took the hosing to Reider Racing and had them make it indestructable, at least to a 400hp/400ftlb 360ci engine. They built it to about 600lft/700hp level they told me, everything new inside, 489 case, 3.91 gears, Strange axles, Moroso studs, Auburn diff (I think?), and green bearings. I also put on a set of 11" drums while we were at it. Unfortunately it was winter in Michigan. I had to wait to spring, but unfortunately, I was finishing school in my final year and I was taking a full load spring and summer, then in the fall, I decided that I had to leave the state to get a better job. I had to sell the Dakota for moving expenses. 

Unfortunately I never got to fully wring out the Caltracs, but I did know they worked, they gave me better traction, enough to keep breaking stuff!

Hey thanks for that! Alot of really good info there  Maybe I should just get the real Caltracs or ladder bars, and quit trying to go cheap. I have a Strange Dana 60 with 4.10s on the way; so breaking a diff in the future isn't a worry; and i sure don't want the slicks to unload shortly after launch. You; got me reconsidering 

[robx4406]

I see something in those plans that may be a problem.

The vertical plates that are on the bottom of the shock plate are symmetrical.  I think you may run into an issue with the heim, jam nut or bung insert hitting the plates.  I think a better way to do those plates is to bring the front edge down perpendicular to the shock plate to remove any potential interference with said parts.

Do they recommend heim joints to use? 18000, 28000 and are they 3/4" bolts and shanks?

Thanks for the peak!

[guzzimike]

Well, since my car is a street-only with a 8.75 - 3.91/SG on BFG 255/60R-15s,  I'm going to try the Lakewood Traction Bars first..

[flyboy01]

I actually like to online plans better than the Caltracs, I am going to build a set for my Buddy and his low 13 second Hemi Ram. Then I am going to make a set for my Dart. I never liked the front Alum bushing that came with the Caltracs

[68droptop]

I need to get rid of the snubber to gain some lower ride height clearance.  Are the CalTracs a good budget choice for my car?

My Dart is not a drag car, but I do want to get mord traction on launch.  I read on one of the threads that CalTracs are not good for the street.  Is that true?  What is the problem?  Do they hurt cornering and overall handling?

Thanks,
John

[73swinger]

I'm sure that caltrac type bars don't affect your ride at all until the axle starts to wrap up under hard acceleration, they can't ,take a look at how they work

[68droptop]

I guess that's right, but how about the monoleaf spring?  Is that really a drag race set-up?  I read somewhere that the monoleaf springs don't last on the street?

Thanks,
John

[stormydart]

do you have a web site for the plans?was thinking of making a set. thanks

[73swinger]

There's a link on this site......see above