Pages: [1]
|
 |
|
Author
|
Topic: Rear end narrowing jig question (Read 918 times)
|
loiq
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 388
BigBlockDart.Com
|
I am going to have a jig made to narrow rear axle housings. My question is, is plain old steel bar stock straight enough to use?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
mopowers
|
I've heard of people even using chrome moly os MS roll cage tubing. It's up to you. I'd definitely roll it on a flat surface to check for any run-out though.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
|
|
|
|
notenuffcash
|
Having worked in a machine shop, I would say round stock (solid) is more likely to be straight. But it all depends on how its been handled. Check it or have it checked between a couple of v blocks with an indicator.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
We used to laugh at Grandpa when he'd head off and go fishing. But we wouldn't be laughing that evening when he'd come back with some whore he picked up in town.
Jack Handy
|
|
|
loiq
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 388
BigBlockDart.Com
|
Cool. When i buy it I'll let them know so they get me a "good" piece.  Interesting point on the roll cage tubing - my welder buddy always tells me tubing is stronger than bar stock.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
notenuffcash
|
Pound for pound it may be stronger.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
We used to laugh at Grandpa when he'd head off and go fishing. But we wouldn't be laughing that evening when he'd come back with some whore he picked up in town.
Jack Handy
|
|
|
|
GON_RACIN
|
No. Use centerless ground barstock, and then just to be sure, check it between V-blocks like notenuff cash said.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
loiq
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 388
BigBlockDart.Com
|
No. Use centerless ground barstock, and then just to be sure, check it between V-blocks like notenuff cash said.
Is that stuff spendy?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
GON_RACIN
|
as a general rule, yes. A 6 foot bar of ground one inch diameter 17-4 stainless steel for example, will usually cost 100+ dollars.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
70 Dustpan
|
If your not going to be doing more then one or two housing it's not worth it to make up the jig. Some friends and I made one up a few years back to do them, but one is a machinist, he got the part cheap and did the work himself.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Hey, I'm a God again!
|
|
|
|
notenuffcash
|
I would go with cold roll, not too expensive. Saw cut it to desired length, check for straight.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
We used to laugh at Grandpa when he'd head off and go fishing. But we wouldn't be laughing that evening when he'd come back with some whore he picked up in town.
Jack Handy
|
|
|
1DART440
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 314
BigBlockDart.Com
|
I cut my housing off squarely in a lathe. Then I machined the ends to fit over the tubes a quarter of an inch. I then put a threaded rod through the whole thing pulling the ends against the tubes and welded it up. Just another way to do it. I have done this twice now, worked great both times.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
69 Dart / 440 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI coming soon
|
|
|
|
FastmOp
|
I made mine to do Dana's, for what your paying to have it made you going to have more in it then just having it narrowed by someone else. Mark williams, the axel guys sell a kit that does danas, 8.750's, 9", and chevys to it's about 450 or so.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
loiq
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 388
BigBlockDart.Com
|
I'm having a friend machine the parts, most likely won't charge me. Case of beer type job...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
jamesdart
|
my bud made one he used hydraulic cylinder stock, this steel place we go ot is fairly cheap and i think he did the whole thing for about 75 bucks. he did 2 for himself and i did mine, so it saved us a few bucks. you need to make pucks for the ends and for the bearings, you cant just line up the ends. i would definitely use solid.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BIG DOG
|
I cut my housing off squarely in a lathe. Then I machined the ends to fit over the tubes a quarter of an inch. I then put a threaded rod through the whole thing pulling the ends against the tubes and welded it up. Just another way to do it. I have done this twice now, worked great both times.
A friend of mine has done a couple of ford 9" this way .He says that the ford end plate fits inside and out side the tubes .Worked great on his drag car and race truck!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Who talked me into this Big Block Dart thing any way  I know who you are ! Some of the dumbest people I know.......know everything .........Funny about that!
|
|
|
|
jamesdart
|
I cut my housing off squarely in a lathe. Then I machined the ends to fit over the tubes a quarter of an inch. I then put a threaded rod through the whole thing pulling the ends against the tubes and welded it up. Just another way to do it. I have done this twice now, worked great both times.
A friend of mine has done a couple of ford 9" this way .He says that the ford end plate fits inside and out side the tubes .Worked great on his drag car and race truck! so what happens if your tubes are not perfectly straight?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
GON_RACIN
|
Then the housing ends wont be parallel, like my last housing, and the tires will wear funny. The housing ends need to be parallel with the carrier bearings of the center section. Referencing off of the housing itself isnt the proper way to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
1DART440
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 314
BigBlockDart.Com
|
You can check it with a 4 foot straight edge across each end, measuring the outer lengths. I agree the jig with a nice solid 1.5" shaft is the way to do it. I just didn't have the material to do that.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
69 Dart / 440 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI coming soon
|
|
|
|
jamesdart
|
Then the housing ends wont be parallel, like my last housing, and the tires will wear funny. The housing ends need to be parallel with the carrier bearings of the center section. Referencing off of the housing itself isnt the proper way to do it.
my point exactly
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1]
|
|
|
 |