How do I buff my paint

[ValiantOne]

Hey All,

I'm going to try using an electric buffer for the first time. How many rpm's do I wanna use with rubbing compound and wax? I've always done this by hand in the past but I'm getting more lazy each year

I've heard all the horror stories about cutting through the paint, and burning the finish. Anyone got any pointers for me?

Thanks!

Chris E.

[BIG DOG]

I wouldn't use a machine .They use them at the body shops and they have the means to fix the screwup right away .I find that you can always see the swirl marks left by the machines.In the past I have had really good luck with the hand glaze made by 3m .Some of the body shops use it with a machine .It is really fine and if you put it on then wipe it off length wise from front to back of the panel you won't see any swirl marks .I had a black car and used this stuff and the car always looked really sharp.And it's easy wipe on wipe off or work more on the scratches.

[ValiantOne]

Well after two applications I still haven't cut through the oxidation on the trunk deck with rubbing compound. It is looking much better, but I think a third application is in order.

Bigdog, this paint is so far gone that swirl marks would look better if it was shiny too! I should have mentioned all the oxidation on the hood and trunk. I'm just trying to get her buffed out a bit so it isn't as horrible until I can afford some paint.

[moparrr07]

the only electric thing i would use to buff, is a buffer made just exactly for what your doing- very low speed and its a duel action

[west]

hey chris,thought you might like to see this
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/367961927.html

[fasttcars]

ok this might sopund funny but try a fine steal wool pad to pull down the oxidization....then use a wool pad[more forgiving then foam].....with a med cutter compound...  just watch flayling wool ends  on body line's  go around 1200 rpm  and let the compound do the work[not top much pressure]....then continue with  a wax or so   should be able to come out sparkling...just take's time

[sunsetdart]

If you do use an electric buffer, you do't want to have it more than 1400 RPM. I would also use a polish over a compound. Even with hand buffing you can cut thru the paint. Compound is nothing more than a pasty sandpaper.

[sunsetdart]

Oh also..............have a spary bottle of water to keep the surface wet..far less likely to burn paint.

[jwmotors]

Don' t be afraid go for it . What kind of buffer do you have ? what kind and size pad are you going to use to buff it ? You need a good right angle buffer , varible speed with a 9 in. wool pad . To cut paint we use 3m super duty rubbing compound but you might just need to use some Mequires # 3 machine glaze . If you compound it you will still need to go back over it with some # 3 or some 3m finnesse . But whatever you decide just start with about a 2 ft square area make sure its clean and put some of your material ( compound etc.) about 3 lines 6 in. apart bump your trigger and work it around to keep from slinging it everywhere and then just buff it out . We use Makita buffers and generaly around # 3 - 4 on the speed and just keep it moving , that keeps it from burning the paint , that and enough material . tilt your buffer so you buff with the outside half of the pad . Once you get the hang of it you will be suprised how easy it is .

[uwee440]

Just be carefull to let the weight of the  buffer do the job,don't press down hard on it and don't stay in one spot for long ,be real carefull of the edges.

[ValiantOne]

hey chris,thought you might like to see this
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/367961927.html

Holy Crow, that could be my car's brother! I wish it was close by, I'd kind of like to see it. Thanks! 

[ValiantOne]

Guys thanks for the advice. I am too damn tired tonight to write about what I did today. It helped some, but I think it could be better. But for now.......SLEEP!

Chris

[ValiantOne]

CRAP, I just lost everything i was typin'!!! And now I have to get back to work