How do I fix this...............

[ValiantOne]

Was cleaing the Dodge Ram tonight and happened to look at the bottom of the door edges. YIKES not so good.

How do I fix this? Obviously get the rust out, but then what. Rust converter, primer, paint, bondo? I haven't a clue.

if the rust has eaten into the bottom edge where the sheet metal rolls around the corner, how the heck do I fix that?

I thought I had my weekend planed. Plans just changed

[68_Val_Sedan]

Trade the truck in .... the new ones take a looooong time to look that way . ....

[ValiantOne]

Trade the truck in .... the new ones take a looooong time to look that way . ....

 

[68_GSS]

Seam swell.  Could be patched but If it's all across the bottom, I'd say new door skin.

[ValiantOne]

Seam swell.  Could be patched but If it's all across the bottom, I'd say new door skin.

Awwww don't say that! That means a ton of work that I probably can't do. Ugh.

Isn't there a way to repair this kind of thing?

[Jim_Lusk]

It really depends on how long you're planning on keeping the truck. I would start with a spot blaster and see what was left when I got done. A lot of people don't like fiberglass, but if there is no rust left it will keep it from coming back, at least in that spot.

[ValiantOne]

It really depends on how long you're planning on keeping the truck. I would start with a spot blaster and see what was left when I got done. A lot of people don't like fiberglass, but if there is no rust left it will keep it from coming back, at least in that spot.

Jim is that one of those hand held sand blasters?


Is there any way I could build up a bead of weld material with my brand new handy dandy mig welder?

[ValiantOne]

Oh, and I'd really like to sell the truck and get a 98 or earlier diesel, but I don't think that is in the cards for a while

[signet]

remove the door panel and vapour barrier and get a look at the inside of the door above the rusty area.

[flyboy01]

There is an easy way to fix it, but, it will take about a week and about $100.

I did this to a trunklid that have the same problem in the seam. What you need to do is get a couple of 2x4's, some heavy plastic sheeting, and 5 Gallons of Evaporust. You need to remove the door, build a rectangular box that will sit on the ground, so you can fit the whole bottom edge of the door in it, when it is done, the door should be able to sit on the ground with the box around it. Lay the plastic sheeting in the frame, set the door inside being careful not to puncture the palstic, pour the evaporust into the tough you made and let it sit for a while, if you scrape away as much paint as possible before it will take less time. As long as its submerged, the rust will dissolve, also, if the there is rust under paint, then the paint will flake off in those areas. I have used this stuff continuosly in the past 9 months. I swear by it. It is reusable and works like magic, best of all its non toxic. The warmer it is, the better it works, 90F is perfect.

[ValiantOne]

There is an easy way to fix it, but, it will take about a week and about $100.

I did this to a trunklid that have the same problem in the seam. What you need to do is get a couple of 2x4's, some heavy plastic sheeting, and 5 Gallons of Evaporust. You need to remove the door, build a rectangular box that will sit on the ground, so you can fit the whole bottom edge of the door in it, when it is done, the door should be able to sit on the ground with the box around it. Lay the plastic sheeting in the frame, set the door inside being careful not to puncture the palstic, pour the evaporust into the tough you made and let it sit for a while, if you scrape away as much paint as possible before it will take less time. As long as its submerged, the rust will dissolve, also, if the there is rust under paint, then the paint will flake off in those areas. I have used this stuff continuosly in the past 9 months. I swear by it. It is reusable and works like magic, best of all its non toxic. The warmer it is, the better it works, 90F is perfect.

Fly that sounds like a good idea. I remeber your posts on the evaporust. Pretty impressive. How would you build back the seam section? I was hoping you'd pipe in:) Thank you.

Chris

[flyboy01]

in my case it was seperating, but it did not eat away all the metal, so I soaked it with rust converter, pounded it back flat, and speread in some seam sealer. In your case, it looks like you might need to weld in some new metal. The Evaporust will get rid of the rust, but if there is no metal left, you still need to build it up. You can always cut the bottom inch off, weld in some new sheetmetal, then bend it over the back edge. It all depends how bad the rust is. Best case scenario is that is swelled up, but the metal is still there underneath. It does not look that bad to me, but you wont know until you start. try poking a little at the crack at the bottom, if it comes apart, then you will have to replace metal anyway.

[chargers777]

Have you checked the local salvage yards for a replacement door?You might luck out and find one the same color off of a wrecked truck.It has worked for me.

[68_GSS]

When the seam is swelled like that it means that at least 2 layers of metal is rusted,  the door shell and the door skin that folds over the shell.  You could grind it or blast it, but I think the door skin is going to pop loose when the rusty metal is removed.

The truck in your picture is two tone with silver on the bottom of the door (rubber molding too) so maybe you could replace the lower skin. 

[Crazy68Dart]

Yeah, I hate to see that.  That is a tough fix, and no real way to get around it without doing it the right way.  You need to split the seam, clean the door frame, and probably replace the lower skin to do it right.  I really wish the auto manufactures would come up with a better design that allowed for better draining.

[ValiantOne]

What do you guys mean when you say the "lower skin"? To me it looks like the outter skin is one piece which is rolled over the inner skin.

Yeah this reall is a dumb ass design.

Either way I think I will end up welding new metal in b/c I don't know how to do the whole skin. And then i'd have to paint anyhow. If I weld new metal in I can just paint the lower half where the door is gray.

ah well, if the headers for the Valiant show up rust repair aint happening this weekend. I'll have to get her done before winter though. ugh! I am so ready for a new truck. And I'm about ready to go back to the Silverado too

[ValiantOne]

Have you checked the local salvage yards for a replacement door?You might luck out and find one the same color off of a wrecked truck.It has worked for me.

Only checked one so far. They got nothin for late models. I'm guessing doors would cost me an arm and a leg though.

[68_GSS]

What do you guys mean when you say the "lower skin"? To me it looks like the outter skin is one piece which is rolled over the inner skin.

Yup, the door skin is one piece. You would cut off  several inches of the outer skin across the bottom of the door.  Install a new piece of metal that overlaps the door shell enough to fold over on the 3 sides.  Door skins are removed by using a grinder on the edge thats folded over.

[ValiantOne]

What do you guys mean when you say the "lower skin"? To me it looks like the outter skin is one piece which is rolled over the inner skin.

Yup, the door skin is one piece. You would cut off  several inches of the outer skin across the bottom of the door.  Install a new piece of metal that overlaps the door shell enough to fold over on the 3 sides.  Door skins are removed by using a grinder on the edge thats folded over.

Oh. So it is like a patch panel. Then the seam gets welded across the front of the door? That I could probably do myself.

So do I have to buy a whole door skin and cut off the bottom portion? Or do they come already cut to a particular size?

Is there a special crimper or tool to make the overlap part at the bottom?

Thanks Guys!

[flyboy01]

There are special tools that crimp the seam, but a body hammer works just as well.

[ValiantOne]

does this "shell" mean both inner and outter skins? 

http://www2.partstrain.com/products/ShopBody/Door/2000~DODGE~RAM_1500~8~5-dot-2~RAM1--004.html?sku=DG14130

'cause if the outter skin is $437, and I am going to use the bottom 4 inches. Forget It!

[signet]

it will be called an "outer door panel".

[flyboy01]

Shell is a whole door, inner and outer with the beam. You really just need a strip of sheetmetal to weld in. Or you can just sell the truck before it spreads.

[68_Val_Sedan]

Hey chris ... try this  http://store.shermanparts.com/cgi-bin/sherman/product_list.html?img_num=330.  Part #330-12LIf  you want it let me know i can get you a discount on it and drop ship it to your house.