upper control arm thread repair

[mjhallas]

Anyone ever seen a thread repair kit for the threaded portion of an upper control arm?  mjhallas@yahoo.com   PS. if not I need a set.  

[bOb shingler]

afco has the sockets to weld in the arm.

[68_Val_Sedan]

I was under the impression that the stock uppers are are not threaded ....the ball joint cuts the threads in as it is installed ... is the hole in the control arm to big to let the ball joint cut new threads into ?

[Bill_Reilly]

Well, you only get to replace them a few times before the hole is worn too big. You can then cut the area out and weld in the aformentioned ring. The rings are threaded to match the balljoint's threads.

....You might also consider offsetting the ring a bit to the rear of the arm to get you some more caster....

[mjhallas]

Are you the Alterkation Guy? I saw your tubular arms but can they be used on the street for daily driving? Can you repair what I have now? Thanks for the information, Mike

[Bill_Reilly]

Yes I am, yes they can, no I can't

I could technically fix your arms, but I'd probably have to charge 100 each to fix em, so it wouldn't be worth it. That's more of a home project - too much labor cost to have it done, but at home, it'd save you a bunch of money in exchange for a few evenings work.
   Just lay the ring on the bottom side of the a-arm, move it a little bit to the rear and scribe a line around it. Then just grind the hole out with whatever tools you have, slip the ring in and weld it. The ring will stick down through the bottom, but it works fine, and there's enough ring to weld it solid on both sides. Just make sure when you grind out the hole you don't go too far - make it so you have to tap the ring in with a hammer - if it fits loosely, the ring will pull when you weld it and the balljoint will be a bitch to get in. You should also use anti-seize compound when you screw the balljoints in - it's easy to gall the threads in the rings after they're welded.

[mjhallas]

My pleasure to meet you. I used to live in Plains Pa. mon & dad are still there. Did you ever race at Nuemedia? If so then I mite know you to see your car. In Indiana now. Great job with the Alterkation. Most do not understand that shock towers are not load bearing (spent 4yrs at PSU to learn that M.E. major) IE the mag force kit and some knock offs. Next time up there I'd loke to see you shop/store if possible. Thanks for your help. Mike

[Bill_Reilly]

Plains is only about 20 minutes from here.  I never raced at Numedia. Been there a few times, but never took my own car. Yea, drop a line if you're in the area, I'm always around.

[Sixpak]

I've ofter wondered if it would be possible to build up the threaded area of the arm by welding it and then grinding down the weld, thereby restoring the meat for the ball joint to cut into. Only problems I see are accurately grinding the area and maybe the welded metal being too hard for the BJ to cut into.

[mjhallas]

I found a new socket that gets welding in at AFCO. It retails for $10.50 plus shipping. Bill Rielly told me that it takes some skill and patience to install  them, but cheaper then new ones. AFCO part number 20043. A place in Louisville KY called Baums S&S has them. call Dale @ 502-361-1281

[Bill_Reilly]

Don't forget, that's for the bigger balljoint, the K772...

[68S]

Here is a link with some pics of what they look like.
I believe the TS200 is the model that would be used for the 73 and up ball joint.
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp7.htm


Pat

[adodgemann]

I first posted this quite a while ago. I have repaired, modified many upper A frames this way for circle track racing. I use the sleeve # TS201 for the uppers, cut in half (1 sleeve makes 2)  Cut in half the thread length is the same as the stock stamped threads. Stock grease rubber fits right on like stock. Just grind the stock threads off the a-frame. Center the sleeve half over the hole, cut side down. Weld it up. Or you may relocate the ball joint where required. Simple, easy and I know it will take any abuse. Circle track racing is real hard on the right front, never tore one off.

[adodgemann]

robx4406  I tried to PM you but for some reason couldn't. I just use a bandsaw to cut the sleeve in half. I tack weld the sleeve to a peice of tubing the same size to make it easyer to clamp in the saw.

[krabysniper]

If the threads in the arm are wasted enough that you can't torq the ball joint down, couldnt you still put a short (say 3/4") weld on three sides of the ball joint to control arm seam, to retain it? They should be plenty strong enough to take abuse and still allow you to use a cut-off wheel to cut loose in the future if they should need replacement, right? Anyone who dosn't agree? Reasons?

[Jim_Lusk]

I believe that is the factory "repair" procedure in the FSM for bad threads (if not it is an approved method). I have a pair of 73-76 arms with the ball joints welded in (I think on four sides, but i'd have to take a look to be sure). I pulled these dirty out of a wrecking yard so I didn't notice it. The ball joints had not moved since they were welded in place.

[jackie]

you could allways send then to my local front end shop.. they come back stripped and bent like this.

[mattq]

    that is crap 

[johndart]

I hate when you take something to a shop that should know how to do their job and they mess it up 

[krabysniper]

I believe that is the factory "repair" procedure in the FSM for bad threads (if not it is an approved method). I have a pair of 73-76 arms with the ball joints welded in (I think on four sides, but i'd have to take a look to be sure). I pulled these dirty out of a wrecking yard so I didn't notice it. The ball joints had not moved since they were welded in place.

I thought so, just wasnt sure. It's how I fixed the one on the passenger side of my Dart when I noticed a while back that the dust boot had mysteriously disappeard (brand new last fall). Took things apart to replace the boot and noticed the ball joint had "slipped" some for a lack of better term. The joint was in fine shape, cleaned everything up tightened the joint down till it was seated and tacked it up on 3 sides (would make it very hard to cut off with a cut off wheel if you did the inside edge I figured so I only did the three accesible sides) Seems to work just fine.

[mattq]

I did my passenger one that way also I have another set just haven't got around to changing it out,

[Josh]

With careful torch and hammer work it is possible to shrink the hole in the control arm.
Many times the arms will strip  to the point the ball joint screws in but will not tighten up and stop turning.These are the best candidates for this type of procedure. In these cases I also like to take a punch and airhammer and peen two spots of the arm into the threads of the ball joint.