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Topic: Need rear end help as soon as possible (Read 400 times)
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512Stroker
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I have a 1970 Swinger and my dad has a 1972-3 Scamp. I was throwing around the idea of narrowing a rear end from a C-body and my dad decided to narrow one as well. He is shipping them out in a couple weeks to moser for the final cut and respline. I NEED to know what others have cut theirs down to! Please include wheel size and backspacing, also did you relocate springs and/or minitub? I am looking to run a 8 or 10 inch wide wheel... anywhere from 3.5-5.5 backspacing. I also want to move the rear back about an inch after it is cut down. Please don't tell me to search the website, because I have and have not found what I am looking for. Also, if I could put the wheels under the car and measure... I would; but I can't as this has all been pretty short notice and I don't have wheels yet. I am thinking cutting it down to 43-45" flange to flange... any responses will help. In case it matters: 489 Case BIG C body drum brakes PLEASE HELP!!!!! 
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Logged
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 There is no replacement for displacement... Currently 1970 Dart Swinger 318/904 (Work in progress)  Soon to be 383--496/727, 8 3/4
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mb68mopar
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If I remember right mine is 41.5 flange to flange, using 10 inch 5.5 rims.
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512Stroker
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are the springs relocated and what about minitub?
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 There is no replacement for displacement... Currently 1970 Dart Swinger 318/904 (Work in progress)  Soon to be 383--496/727, 8 3/4
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oldkimmer
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Do yourself a favour and buy good axles as I can tell u 1st hand what happens when a resplined axle twists off, it will also kill the over running clutch in the rear of ur auto trans...........Kim...............
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MR. Mechanic...........Panther Pink Duster The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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sr71mopar
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Just dont get Yukon axles if you are using an early style plate type suregrip. They are too short. I have a never used set for cheap. Next time I would pay the extra beans for a set of custom Mosers or something and and be done with it.
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upg
Newbie
Offline
Posts: 6
BigBlockDart.Com
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I seen a lot of members post a flange to flange measurement which would be perfect if everyone used the same type of housing ends, then you only have about two brake options, I would think that a flange to flange measurement would really only be relevant to the person cutting down the rear since they would be the ones installing the housing ends of your choice, Mopar, Ford or Chevy which all probably have a different finished lengths and they would know the difference between the different finished length.
So I’m just saying that to me the measurement that would be the most useful to members would be the axle to axle or drum to drum measurement, because the person may not be using the same housing ends as your using.
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mischiefdart
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If you want to run a 15x10 rim you are going to have to relocate the leafsprings and minitub the car. My dana 60 in my '70 Dart is 45" flange to flange. I am running big ford ends and explorer rear disc's. The rearspace on the rims is 3.5" and the tire is a 325-50-15 MT drag radial. The wheel well is about 14" wide. I would suggest starting with the rims and brakes you want to run and set the rear up for that combo.
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upg
Newbie
Offline
Posts: 6
BigBlockDart.Com
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512 Stroker, take a look at the diagram from this post, http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,11373.0.html get some plumb bobs and measure your car bodies find the usable space you have between the frame rails add about 3/4" per side or 1" per side for both sides for tire clearance away from the frame rails and add that to the width of the frame rails and that's your starting point what ever that number maybe, then research tire and wheel combos you like and the back space you want, then you will know the width of the rear you need, you have all of the info you need just do the math you say you have a couple of weeks time.
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PureGTS
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Buy good axles if you are going to be racing the car or trying to get it to "Hook up". the "resplined" axle can't take the stresses of slicks. They tend to strip off the splines or break. Even OEM's can have this happen (see pic). Get the good stuff and you'll have one less thing to worry about. This one took out the supposedly indestructable 4 pinion clutch type limited slip. It broke one of the the side gears in the spider gears. Try and find that one some time.
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Knowldge is power, power is speed, speed is good, low E.T. is better
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smitty72
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I had a local machine shop cut the housing, I brought them both the c=body axle and the abody axle and had them cut it 4 inches (total) narrower than the abody axle. they dont like to cut the axles so I had them put in the moser axles. should take a 10" rim with 5.5 back spacing. I suggest you discide on the rims that you want before you have it cut. makes life a lot easier.
I do have the car mini tubbed and springs moved in.
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jwmotors
Guest
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The best way is to get your wheel and tire combo. take your rear end out , put your wheels and tires under the car , get all your clearances like you want them and then get your measurement from the back side of one wheel to the other where they mount against the brake drums and thats it . A shop that narrows rears will know what to do from there all they need to know is the finished width you need it .
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1DART440
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 314
BigBlockDart.Com
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 don't guess this one.....measure twice and cut once.
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69 Dart / 440 / 727 / 3.91s / TTIs / Mini-tubbed / Rocky Mountain Dash / EFI coming soon
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