Replace LCA bushing?

[white440]

I can not find any instructions or how to's on the subject. It's my wife's 67 Satellite  and I CAN NOT screw this up.  Took the car in for an alignment (Did I mention I'm HORRIBLE at suspention work? ) and they said the LCA bushing is blown out (true) and it'll be $385 for them to fix it. Any idea on where there's a how to with step by step instrucions? Or, can anyone give step by step here for me? Thanks in advance!

[68_GSS]

Depends on if you are using poly bushings or rubber type.  Poly bushings usually re-use the original shells.

How to replace lower control arm bushing with moog original type rubber bushings:

1. press pivot shaft out of LCA from T-bar socket side.  Usually comes out easy if it is worn out.

2. old outer shell of bushing will remain in arm.  Remove any rubber that is still attached.

3. score old outer shell in 3 spots with small sawzall blade and pry out with chisel or screw driver.  Can also weld a thick washer that fits in shell diameter and press out from T-bar socket side.

4. score inner shell on pivot shaft with cut off wheel and remove.

5. place new bushing on soft block of wood and tap pivot shaft into bushing, lube shaft with white grease.

6. wire wheel inside of LCA socket.

7. press pivot shaft/bushing assy into LCA.  A hydraulic press will be needed.  You need something to press on  the outer shell part of the bushing, I used a split collar.  Lube outer shell with white grease.

Probably many ways to do this, but this has worked for me.

[jet-taz]

if running poly bushings, check first which type you are getting. before you take the sleeve of the piviot shafts. some will have you keep it on some won't

[cudaspaz]

here are a couple pics of my LCA bushing that I welded a washer to the inside diameter of the shell so i could press them out of the LCA.

I would recommend using the rubber bushing instead of polyurethane as the rubber ones are supposed to be more durable and not jounce like the poly ones.



Make sure you find a washer that fits on the inside diameter of the casing so your weld does not travel outside the diameter of the shell onto the LCA.

Cutting out this shell is not a good idea as it will only score the bushing shell seat.

It's actually pretty easy.

To tell you the truth, I went out to northern tool and bought a small shop press and a wire feed mig welder just for this job alone because I wanted to do it myself and it gave me a chance to play with fire in the garage every chance I get now.

[Cudadust]

First this is not a simple or easy task, the torsion bar has over 300lbs of sprimg pressure that ia applied.  Polly by Golly bushinga should never be used in the LCA because they are extremely difficult to seat properly. Without the proper tools every step becomes a PIA.  First get a shop manual the parts stores have knock-offs at reasonable prices  The public library, techbical sction usualll have a good selection of material on car repair.  www.americanmuscle.biz sells restoration tools and could have the tools and info you need to complet the job safely.. 

[cudaspaz]

I got my info from a tech article in a back issue of Mopar action probably some time around 2004 - 2005.

They rebuilt a yellow duster front end.

[68_GSS]

Cutting out this shell is not a good idea as it will only score the bushing shell seat.

Oh,  a little hand/eye coordination and it aint too bad.

[Jim_Lusk]

Pretty much what GSS said. I weld a washer in the outer shell every time. For the inner shell that's left on the pivot I close the vise to a little smaller than the shell and hit the shell with a  3lb hammer rotating periodically. This stretches it out to the point where it will just slide off.

And, it's not a hard job at all. The torsion bars will be a pain if they have never been removed before. Don't bother with the small manuals at the parts stores. They aren't worth the paper they are printed on. Some factory manuals are available on disc, others can be bought new reproduction or used. Check e-bay.

[St.Louis-Dart]

Just take the LCA`s off...buy the rubber bushing at car quest/auto-zone 8 bucks?......take the LCA`s and bushings to a machine shop have them press
them out and new ones pressed in for 20 to 40 bucks......... bolt the LCA back on.......and your done....that will save ya 300 bucks 

[Jim_Lusk]

I wouldn't trust most machine shops to get them right............The nightmares I've heard about upper ball joints lead me to believe that they don't know a thing about Mopar front ends.

[jackie]

  100%

[dangerdawg]

if you want it done right......

[white440]

Thanks to everybody for the insight. I'll be preparing for the project over the winter and will tackle it first hint of Spring.

[fourspeed]

Some photos for ya: http://www.fourbarrel.com/lcabushings.html

I recommend you loosen the nut on the LCA stud (so it rotates) and pop the upper ball joint loose to take all the pressure off the torsion bars. They'll come out pretty easy that way. Don't forget to dig the clips out at the back of the torsion bars.

[wickedfirefighter]

Some photos for ya: http://www.fourbarrel.com/lcabushings.html

I recommend you loosen the nut on the LCA stud (so it rotates) and pop the upper ball joint loose to take all the pressure off the torsion bars. They'll come out pretty easy that way. Don't forget to dig the clips out at the back of the torsion bars.

this has some really good pics and info .. i had to save it  for when i do my cars .. thanx fourspeed