Need Help with 67Dar 383 Please its to slugglish

[67Dart383]

Hi, me and my Dad  Just bought a 67 Dodge Dart 383 last year from Kenosha Wisconsin and brought it back to Memphis, Tennessee. It has a .060 over 383 with 11.5:1 compression, slightly ported and polished iron heads,it has a big 324 duration and 540lift hydraulic cam, 1050 Dominator, Sinsle Plane Team G Intake, with a 1inch spacer, The trans is a Reverse Manual 727 2000 stall, the rear end is a 8/3/4 with 4:30 posi track. It has a MSD Pro-billet distributer,MSD 6Al igntion box, 3inchProflow exhausts.
when we hit it it doesn't roast the tires or nothing off the line or on the street from a standstill we have to get it started with a burnout then nail it. With no changes it ran a 14.35 at 94 MPH.
Do altitude changes effect engines alot.

[b569rr]

I'm not a big performance guy, but that stall converter seems low for the power band of that cam.

Tom

[67Dart383]

what Stall should I get around 3000-to 4000 Do you think it will make one of the front tires come up off the ground with some good set of drag radials

[b569rr]

Cam munufacturers will recommend stall speeds and sometimes post this on their websites. Do you have the invoice for your cam when you bought the car? I used to run a much smaller Isky that had a minimum speed of 3500 rpm. You will get many answers soon from guys in the know. Anymore details on the heads will help also.

Tom

[dartracer]

I would change the converter to a 3500-4000 stall. I'm also not a big fan of hydraulic cams with that much duration. The MP 284 528 solid cam will wake that thing up.

[Tyler]

it sounds like a few things need to be addressed. if this is going to be a streeter and run on pump gas then we a compression check is in order. Toss that hydraulic cam and put in a good solid cam. The gears may be a bit steep depending on tire size. You want to keep around 165 psi for compression. Toss that Dominator and go with a 750 a Performer RPM will help and a solid cam with somewhere around 235 to 245 at fifty and keep the lift sane if its a streeter. for a converter go with a 3500 stall. I really can't see it lifting the front tires off the ground with sticky meats either. With that sorted out concentrate on planting the tires to get it to hook up hard on the street. spinning tires is not going to get you anywhere. Put some subframe connectors in.

[Steve DeTar]

Sorry to break the bad news but like I said before, the cam is way to big and so is the carb.  The cheapest bolt on would be a smaller carb.  If you can, do a compression test and get a reading.  I know you don't want to take it apart but you have a mismatch of parts on it, that's why it don't run right.  You are only making 300hp at the engine, smaller or bigger tires are not going to make it run any faster.  If your mph was 120mph and you were only doing it in 14 sec's, I'de understand.  Sorry, but you got a major internal problem, not only the carb, the the cam is for a big 440 or a 500 incher.  Change that one component and it will run faster.  My little small block ran 12.38 @ 109mph with only a 230 @ .050 cam.  If I had 11.5 to 1, I'm sure it would have run a whole lot faster.  It's just a thought and it is not a slam, but you have a problem internally.  Are you sure it is a 11.5 to 1 motor?  To get that kind of compression ratio, there should be some pop-up pistons in it.  I'de pull the heads just to make sure.  Let us know.... and good luck.

[bOb shingler]

that sucker needs a 8" convertor to work.

[67Dart383]

This cam thats in it revs to 6500 easily we have a chip that stops it at 6500 we shift it at 6200.  It allready has frame connectors when we run drag radials we are going to put a driveshaft safety loop. We have to keep the idle at 1100 to 1200 right now.

[bOb shingler]

why so high of an idle?

[67Dart383]

The idle is so high because of thecahrging system not working properly and if we drop  it below 900 in park then put it in drive the engine will die out.

[Slinger]

   Whats your timing look like?

[Tom1951]

Cam is way to big for the heads and the carb is way to big and it is losing all it's port velocity sending it to bog city. Must have been a Chevy guy that put that combo togather. The MP 284 solid lifter or a Racer Brown ST21 254@.050 .520 lift some more port work and a 750 Mighty Demon will wake it up nicely. The convertor is way off also, if it's used on the street a lot the 2 stage Dynamic 9 1/2 would be perfect. It locks under light load at 2800 but flashes to 4200 when the throttle is mashed.

[67Dart383]

Are timing that is set in it right now is 14 degrees initial and 32 degrees total at 2000 rpm

[Tom1951]

I have a Racer ST21 in the Dart with 1.6 rockers and Eddys at 11 to 1. My distributor is set at 18 intail 34 total all in at 2800 with a 4200 stall convertor. The engine is a 446 or .030 over 440 with a 850 Mighty Demon.

[67Dart383]

Where do you check your vacuum readings from on the engine. we checked on the spacer on mine and our vacuum is below 7 which is in the powervalve in the dominator so its always in its main circuit when running.
Thats probably another reason why it smokes so much off and on. What is a Racer ST21

[67Dart383]

What would happen to your engine if  you brung down your timing to my settings.    Also were did you check your engine vacuum from?       Our vacuum is low in the 7's which is in our powervalve in the Dominator all the time which makes the Dominator be in its main power circuit all the time. Thats probably why it smokes sometimes when warming  up.

[JD451]

What would happen to your engine if  you brung down your timing to my settings.    Also were did you check your engine vacuum from?       Our vacuum is low in the 7's which is in our powervalve in the Dominator all the time which makes the Dominator be in its main power circuit all the time. Thats probably why it smokes sometimes when warming  up.

I would kick the timing up to 37* total, maybe even 38*, it will help, don't know how much, but it will help.