SSBC Rear brake swap

[69 GTS Clonvertible]

I got everthing together except the hard lines for the brakes, I need to bend them up, add the prop valve, and brake fluid, bleed'em and then test for correct prop valve setting and I'm done, unless my master cylinder bore is to small then I need to replace it to the larger bore and all will be good, (no spongy peddle)

As some may recall the new axles and 3.23 sure grip post that I posted last week under "green bearing question" as part of the brake swap.

drivers side


passenger side


Oh and while I had the axles out and was swapping the differential assembly out, I installed this front drive shaft loop, from American Car Tool (I think thats the name?)


Next on my list is to see about getting the 4 speed trans refreshed and maybe a lakewood BB bell housing?

[dartracer]

Looks good Shawn.

[redfastback]

aaaaahhhhhhhhhh...........rear disc brakes.  don't go thru the windshield.  looks good.

[69 GTS Clonvertible]

Ok, anybody plumb in the rear adjustible prop-valve after the brass distribution block but under the drivers door? I really don't want to have to lift my car to adjust the prop valve if I stick it directly after the brass distribution block. So I was thinking of cutting the line and adding the adjuster there. I would need to use a double flaring tool to flare the cut ends correct?
Can somebody knowledgable get me a quick answer as this is all I have to do to pretty much finish.
I also posted under the Prop./ Brake valve sticky

[cudaspaz]

There is another post on this board about prop valves and someone showed a picture of SSBC's adjustable porportioning valve, dist block all in one.

By the way, your install looks good.

I've got the ssbc rear disk brake kit on my 67 cuda and master power brakes manual disk kit in front.

I'm just waiting for my new brake lines to get here and I hope the flares are not all mangled this time aorund.

Talk about poor quality control.

[b569rr]

Ok, anybody plumb in the rear adjustible prop-valve after the brass distribution block but under the drivers door? I really don't want to have to lift my car to adjust the prop valve if I stick it directly after the brass distribution block. So I was thinking of cutting the line and adding the adjuster there. I would need to use a double flaring tool to flare the cut ends correct?
Can somebody knowledgable get me a quick answer as this is all I have to do to pretty much finish.
I also posted under the Prop./ Brake valve sticky

Yes, if you are flaring they must be a double. An affordable tool from Lisle or Sears will do steel. Stainless takes a higher dollar tool. Remember to put the flare nuts on before you flare.

What type of valve are you using? If it already has an inverted flare then you are good to go. If it has a pipe thread, you will need a MIPT x inverted flare adapter. If you need fittings and can't find them local, www.speedwaymotors.com has brake line plumbing.

Tom

[69 GTS Clonvertible]

Ok, anybody plumb in the rear adjustible prop-valve after the brass distribution block but under the drivers door? I really don't want to have to lift my car to adjust the prop valve if I stick it directly after the brass distribution block. So I was thinking of cutting the line and adding the adjuster there. I would need to use a double flaring tool to flare the cut ends correct?
Can somebody knowledgable get me a quick answer as this is all I have to do to pretty much finish.
I also posted under the Prop./ Brake valve sticky

Yes, if you are flaring they must be a double. An affordable tool from Lisle or Sears will do steel. Stainless takes a higher dollar tool. Remember to put the flare nuts on before you flare.

What type of valve are you using? If it already has an inverted flare then you are good to go. If it has a pipe thread, you will need a MIPT x inverted flare adapter. If you need fittings and can't find them local, www.speedwaymotors.com has brake line plumbing.

Tom

Tom,
I have the Adjusible prop valve from SSBC it came with my rear brake swap kit, also came with a 3" line with the threaded ends on it I was planning on cutting the 3" line to scavenge the ends off of it to use on the brake line already on my Dart. I was going to cut the line leading to the rear brakes at the underside of the drivers door and put these ends onto the old line use my double flare tool and plumb in the adjusable prop. valve. So from your PM I should be ok with what I want to do right?
Thanks,
Shawn

[redfastback]

yes you will be fine doing it that way.  its just more fun flaring UNDER the car.