Pages: [1]
|
 |
|
Author
|
Topic: why upgrade master cylinders (Read 793 times)
|
|
moparrr07
|
from what i have seen the stock cast master cylinder has a bore of 1 inch and all of the 80s aluminum ones everyone upgrades to has the 1 1/8 bore
now from what i know about hydrolics, the smaller the master cylinder is, the easier it is to push and more pressure it exerts, but it take a longer stroke to push it,
now i can do a hard stop without pushing my pedal down more than a inch,
why would i want to go to the bigger bore master, besides weight savings and it might take heat a little better? manual brakes arnt bad but i wouldnt want to have to push much harder than i already do
am i missing something here?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
|
|
|
|
BBLM23
|
weight.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Walter 1981 Dodge Aries 451 B1/BS Best 1/4 9.871 at 136.01mph 1969 Dart Swinger 431 B1/BS Best 1/4 10.649 at 126.45mph Racing Pro in street trim. 1981 Plymouth Reliant 400 http://bbdart.com/parts/parts.html
|
|
|
|
mopowers
|
now from what i know about hydrolics, the smaller the master cylinder is, the easier it is to push and more pressure it exerts, but it take a longer stroke to push it,
I'm curious how a smaller diameter master cylinder bore would cause more pressure in the brake line. It seems to me if you exerted the same amount of pressure on a small and larger diameter master at the same time. The small one would travel further than the larger one. But the pressure in the line going to the brake would be equal. Is this wrong? Someone fill me in.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
66 Dart GT: BB project. shooting for high 10's 2006 Dakota 
|
|
|
67notchback
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 14
BigBlockDart.Com
|
just because you put the smaller bore master cylinder doesnt mean more pressure. it just makes for less fluid capacity. its not as if your going to squeeze the same amouth of fluid into the system and raise the hydrolic pressure. the smaller has a longer stroke so your going to have more pedal higher but the difference isnt noticable enough to make it a huge deal. the extral weight taken off always helps 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
73swinger
|
Actually, a larger bore cylinder will ALWAYs make more PSI than a small one with same effort applied but the smaller one will move faster
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
baumtruck
Jr. Member

Online
Posts: 17
BigBlockDart.Com
|
pressure=force/surface area. Thus the smaller bore would move a lower volume of fluid at a higher pressure with the same force applied.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
bOb shingler
|
the real reason to change over is the iron are crap.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
|
|
|
|
farmington
|
Plus the fact that in 10 years will you be able to find a iron replacement when yours goes bad? Probably not.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
When in doubt, Whip it out!
|
|
|
|
moparrr07
|
chances are i will find one because they have remans available 35 years after the made the originals
mines a reman and cost $17 and i LOVE it, extremely easy to push, tons of braking pressure, i am just wondering if upgrading to an aluminum one will make it worse, then it wouldn't be worth the 2 lbs in weight savings
its just $17 for a higher pressure, or $80 plus an adapter for less pressure and harder to push, its not like pedel travel is a problem
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'72 Duster: daily driver in 3 seasons, paid for, insured by and gased up, all by my 17 year old salary
225, 7 1/4, working on 451, and 8 3/4 brakes, 11 3/4
60-0: 105 ft. cornering gs: estimate: .90
50% custom interior
|
|
|
|
|
|
375InStroke
|
The input force is multiplied by the ratio of output area divided by input area. If there is 10 square inches of piston area on the brake cylinders and calipers, and 1 square inch on the master cylinder, and you have 10 lbs. of force on the master, then you have 10 square inches divided by 1 square inch, giving you 10. Then you multiply that 10 by the 10 lbs. of input force, and that gives you 100 lbs. of force. The total movement of the brake pistons would be 1/10 the distance that the master cylinder moved, though. If the master was larger, you would have a lower ratio, and less force multiplication as a result. I think that the power masters are larger that the manual masters. Aluminum would transfer heat more effectively to the fluid, which I'm sure is not good, and the weight savings is about the same as cutting out that Big Gulp before getting into the drivers seat. I'd stick with the stock master.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
nd2stopfastr
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 81
BigBlockDart.Com
|
the master has a larger bore with non power for 73-up. also, if adding a heavier motor, a lighter m/c can help with weight distribution aluminium is also not affected by DOT3 fluid whereas cast iron is. plus they were used well into the 80's as OEM pieces.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
loiq
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 388
BigBlockDart.Com
|
chances are i will find one because they have remans available 35 years after the made the originals
mines a reman and cost $17 and i LOVE it, extremely easy to push, tons of braking pressure, i am just wondering if upgrading to an aluminum one will make it worse, then it wouldn't be worth the 2 lbs in weight savings
its just $17 for a higher pressure, or $80 plus an adapter for less pressure and harder to push, its not like pedel travel is a problem
Sp you've driven them both and tested the pressure in both? Do you have any pressure numbers to share?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
75Dart440
|
I have the aluminum MP master cylinder P5249271 on a stock-body Dart Sport with 440/auto and stops very well. This master is for > 2800lb car weight.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1975 Dodge Dart Sport - 440 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4x4
|
|
|
|
Pages: [1]
|
|
|
 |