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Author Topic: Welding frame connectors  (Read 546 times)
B-ridge Cuda
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Welding frame connectors
« on: October 08, 2007, 12:54:35 AM »

I'm a long time reader, but first time poster. I'm in the process of building frame connectors from the tech pages. Have been having problems with the front. I read somewhere on this board about how to control the puddle when you are welding the bottom of the front plate, but cannot find it. It seems to just melt off. I have a Miller 210 with .035 solid wire, argon gas mix 75/25. Should I turn the heat and speed down. Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks Mike
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2007, 05:14:23 AM »

Haven't done frame connectors, but I'll give it a try.  Are you trying to weld a thicker plate to the frame, which is much thinner?  Keep the puddle on the thicker plate, and let the edge of the puddle touch the thinner metal, or you can set up the mig as if you were welding two pieces of the same thinner sheet, and use that setting.  If you start to blow through and get a hole, don't move away.  Keep the mig there to fill in the hole.  If that doesn't work, then the heat is too high or the feed too slow.  Are you using a guide or manual for suggestions on what settings to use and they aren't working for you?
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B-ridge Cuda
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2007, 08:33:45 AM »

I'm using the manual for the settings. Haven't blown through the thinner metal yet. Gravity seems to be letting it drip right off. I try to stay on the thicker metal but I have never welded upside down and it is pretty hard to control. Looks really bad on the bottom of the plate. Thanks Mike
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bOb shingler
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2007, 09:43:50 AM »

grind it down flush and set up amps and speed as you would welding down just weld and stop right away as in spot welding then continue along. what is happening is your not stopping soon enough or not welding fast enough, watch the weld puddle very close, which takes some practice or use the weld and stop method. you'll get it, just be patient. remember the grinder is your friend.
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2007, 11:30:23 AM »

B, welding overhead takes a little time to master. You'll probably have better luck turning the wire speed down just a LITTLE. Then you want to start on the thick piece, move your puddle down-over & up, down-over & up, pausing on the "up" for about a second (maybe less). I'd recommend coming up with some scrap about the same thickness & practice your technique with it. And, as stated, don't become frustrated, you can always grind it off & start over again!
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2007, 12:04:51 PM »

Thanks for the help. I'll give these methods a try this afternoon. Patience is whats needed, but it does get frustrating. I am becoming very aquainted with the grinder.             Thanks again, Mike
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2007, 12:37:35 PM »

Using a smaller wire with less deposition will help you out alot .035" is too big anyways. .030" is good for structural on cars. If you want more control go to .023". Don't drag the puddle too fast ensuring good tie in.

If you have a small gap on fit up, run a single root pass stinger along the length of the plate. Wire brush the weld clean with a 4.5" stringer bead on your grinder. Place a second pass over the root approx 5/16" wide tying the torsion bar support to the flat bar using a side to side motion pausing at the edges for tie in.

Tom
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2007, 08:48:17 PM »

Thanks everyone for their help. Did get a smaller wire size. Followed the advice about starting on the thicker material first and dipping down to the thinner.   Everything welded up alot better than I expected. Next on the list will be a 10 pt. cage. Hope to have ready by spring.   Mike
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2007, 09:16:05 PM »

I used .030 in a Hobart Handler 120 to weld mine in.  Worked great even upside down.  I used straight CO2, which tends to give a little hotter arc.  Turn the wire speed down to the point the arc sounds almost like spray transfer (a smooth hissing sound instead of a popping sound when welding) and keep the puddle more on the thicker piece to keep from burning through.  One thing that helps as well, is to preheat the heavier gauge steel, in this case the frame connector bracket, with a propane or map gas torch, prior to welding on it.  The important thing is get good tie in on both pieces, with the weld bead.  I've never had a frame connector break loose under hard acceleration, but I bet it sure would cause the car to handle funny if it were to happen!!
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2007, 10:15:02 PM »

what size wire should you use if you are using flux to weld in the connectors?
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illfish
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2007, 01:17:36 PM »

.035
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Re: Welding frame connectors
« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2007, 02:35:20 PM »

thank you
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