rear frame rails

[bigjon]

The rear frame rails are shot on my 74 dart.  I plan on putting a 440 in it pushing aroung 600+ hp.  I am toying with the idea of putting a four link rear frame rail section from like summit or someone like that.  The only problem is that it is expensive (I know you can't put a price on safety). Is there any other options on what I can do?  I will have to put in a new trunk pan either way so that is no big deal.

[NYrr496]

I had a friend years ago who had a real 70 Z28. The car was cool. It was a rare green that you didn't see all the time, only problem was the rear frame rails were rotted. He grafted in Alston or S&W framerails.  After that, the car rode better and launched better than ever. Even though he fitted the stock leaves back in it. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same thing if I had to.

[CudaDon65]

Try these guys, www.autorust.com. Hope this helps.

[bigjon]

do you think those rais from auto rust are strong enough for a big block though??

[CudaDon65]

I think so but you could give them a call and ask to be sure.

[bigjon]

I had saw those but didn't think they would stand up to the torture of big block

[robx4406]

I got these.... nice rear rails out of a 72 Duster



Shoot me a PM or e-mail  robule1 at yahoo dot com

[CudaDon65]

bigjon, in the latest Mopar Muscle is an article about fixing the frame rails using parts from autorust Technicians. Some info and pics.

[jackie]

sounds like it's time to back half that car. hang out at a local race car shop, ask lot's of questions, and buy the frame rails and parts from them. they can bend the parts for you . it's not as hard as you think. might be just as easy as replacing all of the orginal metal. then you can put on BIG tires to handle your power.. the hardest part is the aluminium work. let the race shop do this ,because this is what makes it look good.. it take a lot of time, but it is worth it!!   i have looked at 4 link kits , but you will save money at the local shops. good luck!

[bigjon]

CudaDon65,

I tried to look up that article on repairing rear frame rails in mopar muscle and couldn't find it.  Is the any kind of link that you know of?

[CudaDon65]

Sorry it's not on there web page, I saw it in the magazine.

[Ryan (Strange246)]

Replaced the rear rails in my Demon, I used a set of rust free originals, not that hard but takes time, just block the body up level, measure EVERYWHERE you can think of, write down the measurements, drill the spot welds and remove the old ones, put the new ones in place and use the drilled spot weld holes to weld the new ones back in, just be sure to measure EVERYTHING! to make sure they're in the correct location...check out my website for pics...I added frame rail connectors, minitubs, and relocated the springs at the same time..

Ryan

[72Scamp]

Ryan, I have a question about your frame rail replacement.  How did you separate the front of the frame rail from the inner rocker panel.  I'm in the process of replacing mine, and I'm not sure how to separate this section.  Any ideas?

Thanks

[john426]

The rear frame rails are spot welded on at the factory, removing them takes drilling the old spot welds away. I use a special cutter named an annular cutter to remove spot welds and get about 200 spot welds per bit (which are about $10 or so).

At the front of the frame rail - at the rocker, there are several braces that "box" in the front spring perch to the rocker. The braces are all spot welded on - drill the spot welds and the entire rear frail assembly will come off.

Here is a link to a picture of a passenger side we removed from a car - you can see the braces and how they are still attached to the rocker piece (we got lazy and cut the rocker panel with the plasma cutter, but to add this to a car, you need to drill the spot welds).



Hope that helps!

[Ryan (Strange246)]

The rear frame rails are spot welded on at the factory, removing them takes drilling the old spot welds away. I use a special cutter named an annular cutter to remove spot welds and get about 200 spot welds per bit (which are about $10 or so).

At the front of the frame rail - at the rocker, there are several braces that "box" in the front spring perch to the rocker. The braces are all spot welded on - drill the spot welds and the entire rear frail assembly will come off.

Here is a link to a picture of a passenger side we removed from a car - you can see the braces and how they are still attached to the rocker piece (we got lazy and cut the rocker panel with the plasma cutter, but to add this to a car, you need to drill the spot welds).



Hope that helps!

John beat me to it, yup what he said...

Ryan

[72Scamp]

The rear frame rails are spot welded on at the factory, removing them takes drilling the old spot welds away. I use a special cutter named an annular cutter to remove spot welds and get about 200 spot welds per bit (which are about $10 or so).

At the front of the frame rail - at the rocker, there are several braces that "box" in the front spring perch to the rocker. The braces are all spot welded on - drill the spot welds and the entire rear frail assembly will come off.

Here is a link to a picture of a passenger side we removed from a car - you can see the braces and how they are still attached to the rocker piece (we got lazy and cut the rocker panel with the plasma cutter, but to add this to a car, you need to drill the spot welds).


Hope that helps!

I get the whole drill the spotweld out thing, I just don't know how to drill them out in the inner rocker without removing the outer rocker to get to it.  My drill wont fit in there.  Maybe I can find a right angle drill to get at them.

[Ryan (Strange246)]

You could also use a cutoff wheel to slice off the flat part thats spot welded to the rocker, cut that same part off of the replacement and when you put the new ones in, weld that seam back together..

Ryan

[john426]

OK, I missed the nuisance of the question - got it now!!

Here are my thoughts on removing frame rails (and other parts as well). The part you are removing is bad, so you can sacrifice it without any harm, yes? Use a cutoff wheel, plasma, torch or even a pneumatic hammer with a cutoff chisel and cut the brace that connects the front spring perch area to the rocker.

With the brace severed, you can remove the rest of the frame rail. Now with the frame rail removed, the area around the inner rocker spot welds will be very well exposed and you should be able to get in there and remove the rest of the brace without damage to the car. Careful use of the air chisel can work wonders on hard to get to spot welds - just go slow, it will no discriminate between metal you want and metal you don't!

If you are going to replace the frame rails with some from a donor car, you can sacrifice the rocker on the donor to get access to drill the spot welds on the replacement rails.

hope that helps a bit more!

[RussDavis]

I've installed 4 sets from autorust tech and with basic welding skills there very strong. I just installed a set on my 64 Valiant vert. If you not worried about being original there a very good fairly cheap about 500 a pair and lot less work the removing the originals.

[72Scamp]

OK, I missed the nuisance of the question - got it now!!

Here are my thoughts on removing frame rails (and other parts as well). The part you are removing is bad, so you can sacrifice it without any harm, yes? Use a cutoff wheel, plasma, torch or even a pneumatic hammer with a cutoff chisel and cut the brace that connects the front spring perch area to the rocker.

With the brace severed, you can remove the rest of the frame rail. Now with the frame rail removed, the area around the inner rocker spot welds will be very well exposed and you should be able to get in there and remove the rest of the brace without damage to the car. Careful use of the air chisel can work wonders on hard to get to spot welds - just go slow, it will no discriminate between metal you want and metal you don't!

If you are going to replace the frame rails with some from a donor car, you can sacrifice the rocker on the donor to get access to drill the spot welds on the replacement rails.

hope that helps a bit more!

Thanks John.  This was too obvious.  It never occured to me that I was scrapping the rusted frame rails and could cut them up.. Thanks for helping me see the light!

[Adam]

I'd stay away from an air hammer to remove your parts. Yes it's easy but a) it's freakin loud and b) more importantly, you risk chewing up the parts that you need to save (rockers, floor, trunk floor, rear crossmember, etc).

Adam