Author
|
Topic: More Quarter Panel Progress Bunch of Pics... (Read 1806 times)
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Well folks, finally lit a fire under my ass and got some more work done on the Demon, the metalwork on the Driverside quarter is pretty much done, just have to grind down the welds on a small rocker patch, but the rest of the quarter is ready for epoxy and mud...
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Started in on the passenger side quarter, cleco'd the new one in place, marked out my cut lines...
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
This time I tried a method I read about somewhere, I cut through both pieces at the same time, the idea is it makes both pieces the exact same shape and gives you a bodysaw blade width seam for good penetration, we'll see when I tack it on in a few days...
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
These last two show a neat trick I picked up for keeping the metal from getting too wavy on the c-pillar where there's not much support, I tacked a length of rigid brake line thats bent to the same contour just above the cut, supposedly it should help with warpage which was a big issue on the driver side, but mainly because the driverside had been hit in the past and someone did a hackjob repairing it...Again, we'll see when I TIG it in place...The last pic is some nice rocker panel cancer I found when the quarter came off, thankfully that section isnt visible when the quarter is in place so I dont have to be too picky when I fix it, cut it out, weld in new metal, and cover with the quarter...
Ryan
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
sycboi
|
Great work man!
-Michael
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
SuperBeast '70 Dart Roller 383 w/ much aluminum Viper T-56, StreetTwin, hydraulic throwout, HD Dana 60, AlterKtion An enforcer for the Mopar Mafia!
|
|
|
|
ski
|
 You're doing a great job on that car Ryan. ski
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
eldubb440
|
nice work!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Mopars, AMCs, and a pile of 440 Dart
You're all worthless and weak; now drop and give me twenty!
|
|
|
|
Ace
|
Man looks like you know what's going on!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
dusterdarryl
|
m8, I bet that weld across the rear piller is a bast#*d to keep an even curve
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Shift as hard as you like, just dont break your arm... (George Hurst)
|
|
|
|
bOb shingler
|
excellent
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"bOb Built" (no matter how many times it takes) 
|
|
|
|
acpat
|
looking good
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
thebankerstoy
|
Very nice Ryan!  Richard
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Chevy's, Ford's and imports are breakfast of champions MOPARS RULE! God member on old forum with 1276 posts
|
|
|
|
|
|
jet-taz
|
looking good . now the sanding begins. ;)after seeing you and others saving their cars from the rust monster !!i don't know if i could do it or just send it out.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
69 dodge dart/440 former god over 1200 post on old site
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
looking good . now the sanding begins. ;)after seeing you and others saving their cars from the rust monster !!i don't know if i could do it or just send it out.
Dont know till you try! it's never gone until it is!  ... Ryan
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
fourspeed
|
Looks good, man. I didn't think you had any serious rust... My friend just picked up a used TIG. We were playing around with it last weekend. It's going to take some practice! We welded some rear quarters with a Meeco torch. It warps pretty bad, but you do a small area, then hammer it, and buzz over it with a metal disk, then blow some air on it. It actually straightens out pretty nice. Plus, the gas weld is soft enough to work, unlike a MIG weld. Here's some pics: http://www.thesandmshop.com/fordWhen that car is done, which is SOON, we're hauling the Duster over there for body work. It might hit the road next fall if everything goes right. Your car must be really close. Anything left besides body/paint? Mark
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Looks good, man. I didn't think you had any serious rust... My friend just picked up a used TIG. We were playing around with it last weekend. It's going to take some practice! We welded some rear quarters with a Meeco torch. It warps pretty bad, but you do a small area, then hammer it, and buzz over it with a metal disk, then blow some air on it. It actually straightens out pretty nice. Plus, the gas weld is soft enough to work, unlike a MIG weld. Here's some pics: http://www.thesandmshop.com/fordWhen that car is done, which is SOON, we're hauling the Duster over there for body work. It might hit the road next fall if everything goes right. Your car must be really close. Anything left besides body/paint? Mark Only thing I really have left is body/paint, have my transmission gone through, assembly, and figure out the wiring, which I'm doing an aftermarket harness, and a toyota alt....It'll be ready by spring unless something bad happens  Ryan
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
demon340v
|
looks very good, hopefully by january i will be redoing the quarter panels on my car i need a patch and maybe a full skin on the other side.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Alyways Imitated..Never! Duplicated~ Project El Diablo (71 Demon) 
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
What device did you use to make the cut on the pass side? I am thinking of doing mine that way, rather than flanging. Less somewhere for moisture to accumulate.
Did you wrap them into the door jam, or stop at the edge?
Looks nice man.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jamakin
|
Great work, but i'm a little confused. Maybe i'm just not seeing the damage but it doesn't look like there was anything wrong with the passanger side  Why did you replace it??
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
CudaDon65
|
Nice work, looking good please keep the pics coming. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Crazy68Dart I use a cutoff wheel to make a slice through both panels, and then a air powered body saw to cut along the cut-line, the body saw has more control, no heating of the metal and is very fast... Jamakin, the section of the quarter in front of the wheel was rusted out all the way from the wheel opening to the door opening, from the bottom edge up about 10", the section behind the tire had been caved in from the bodyline across the center of the quarter down to the bottom, behind the tire from bottom up about 6" all the way back was rusting out from the back side...The caved in section had been fixed by a screw in dent puller (leaving holes in the quarter covered with filler) and by cutting parts out and replacing them with flat sheetmetal and a nice layer of 5/8"-3/4" thick bondo....To me it's easier to cut the quarter up by the beltline and replace the quarter, that way the top edge and the bend under the quarter window really help keep the warpage down, instead of replacing a section with a cut out in the middle of the panel...Here's a better pic of the damaged area behind the tire, the red section is all junk, the green lines are weld seams where they sectioned in flat metal and built it up with bondo... The 2nd pic is in front of the tire, basically anywhere in the red area was rotting from the backside... Ryan  
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jamakin
|
Jamakin, the section of the quarter in front of the wheel was rusted out all the way from the wheel opening to the door opening, from the bottom edge up about 10", the section behind the tire had been caved in from the bodyline across the center of the quarter down to the bottom, behind the tire from bottom up about 6" all the way back was rusting out from the back side...The caved in section had been fixed by a screw in dent puller (leaving holes in the quarter covered with filler) and by cutting parts out and replacing them with flat sheetmetal and a nice layer of 5/8"-3/4" thick bondo....To me it's easier to cut the quarter up by the beltline and replace the quarter, that way the top edge and the bend under the quarter window really help keep the warpage down, instead of replacing a section with a cut out in the middle of the panel...Here's a better pic of the damaged area behind the tire, the red section is all junk, the green lines are weld seams where they sectioned in flat metal and built it up with bondo... The 2nd pic is in front of the tire, basically anywhere in the red area was rotting from the backside... Ryan   Gotcha ryan, I figured the reasoning was something like that but i couldn't tell from the pictures. I agree with where you made your cuts too, make it where its easiest for you to weld it and where there is the least chance somebody would ever notice it. Plus those aftermarket 'full quarters' aren't reallly full quarters so its best to leave a little bit of the old metal to work with
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
ls23h8b
Jr. Member

Offline
Posts: 17
BigBlockDart.Com
|
...To me it's easier to cut the quarter up by the beltline and replace the quarter, that way the top edge and the bend under the quarter window really help keep the warpage down, instead of replacing a section with a cut out in the middle of the panel...
I agree. Much less potential for problems this way.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Could you post a picture of the body saw you used?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Could you post a picture of the body saw you used?
Sure, here's one like the one I have, this is the heavy duty version, mine is the Ingersoll Rand Super Duty version, which is a rubber covered handle and supposedly beefier internals.... Ryan 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Crazy68Dart
|
Kewl. I like IR air tools, they are made pretty well. I'll have to do some digging for a PN and do some price checking.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ryan (Strange246)
|
Kewl. I like IR air tools, they are made pretty well. I'll have to do some digging for a PN and do some price checking.
Thanks!
No problem, lemme know what you come up with for a price, the local place I got mine was right around $80 Ryan
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
| |