REAR END NARROW NIGHTMARE

[68droptop]

So I described in an earlier thread that my new tires were were rubbing the inner quarters, so I decided to narrow the rear just 1/2" per side to provide some room.  Sounds easy enough right?

Well, I wasn't familiar with a local place to do it, so I searched the yellow pages and found a local speed shop that said they could do it and had the right alignment equipment to make sure it is true.  I decided to cut my 8.75" A body rear, so I bought a rear housing from a truck and took that housing and my A body housing (so he had a reference for the 1/2" per side narrow) to this speed shop and then left town for a business trip.  I got back Friday night and my wife tells me the speed shop mistakenly cut the truck housing down two inches, realized they had made a mistake, then decided to cut my A body housing. 

Yesterday, the speed shop delivered the rear end while I was out.  The guy called later and apoligized.  I haven't paid the guy anything.  He offered to make me an A body stock width housing...

Anyway, I go to install it this morning, and it doesn't look right.  The flange on one side is not near center on the tube.  I don't know anything about narrowing rear ends, but I assumed the flange should slide over the tube.  It looks like what I have is just butted together...

Is there a chance that the proper alignment woud look like it does in these pictures, or does this shop not have a clue what they are doing?

Thanks,
John

 

[68droptop]

...a second pic.

[loiq]

Yikes.

[rjsjea]

That sucks.....I dont think you should be paying for that.  When I had mine done the guy had a jig to secure it together straight before he welded it up.  I would take him up on the offer to make a stock width housing then take it to a competent shop.

[hemi_jay]

My engineer friend can make it straighter than that without a jig. I think he should give you a new housing.

[illfish]

Looks completely normal.  The housing ends are the last thing to go on when narrowing the rear.  Depending on the manufacturer of the ends, they can be off that much.  As long as the axles slide in easy and don't bind the bearing, you're fine.  The TIG welds look good.  I wouldn't worry about it.  It really is a common thing to happen. 

[GON_RACIN]

Take some measurements, as best you can, from one flange to the other.  The measurements should be the same from one flange to the other, measured from any given point.  Like illfish said, it looks normal.  The actual axle tubes arent dead straight, and they dont have to be.  What matters is weither or not the flanges are parallel with the carrier bearings of the pumpkin.  Also, most aftermarket flanges dont slide over the axle tubes, they are buttwelded to the face of them which explains why it looks funky when you look down inside the axle tubes.  Without a fixture/jig it will be hard to check to see if the axle flanges are parallel or not unless you assemble everything and get the car on an alignment rack. If its way out you should be able to see it by checking with a measuring tape or some string. Good Luck.

[68droptop]

Okay, I had my son hold a flat edge on one side of the outer edge of the flange and I held a flat edge on the other.  At about 6" in flont of the axle center and 6" behind, there is about 1/8" toe out.  I measured 52 1/8" in front, and 52" behind.  Is that close enough, or is that what was meant by saying you could use a tape to see if it is way off?

Thanks for the help.  I was wanting to put the thing together, but not if it's not right.

John

[illfish]

1/8 total should be o.k.  Give you about 1/16" per side.  Check as you crush the bearing down that it's even.  Make sure the axles turn freely when in the carrier.  Sounds like you are good.

[GON_RACIN]

Okay, I had my son hold a flat edge on one side of the outer edge of the flange and I held a flat edge on the other.  At about 6" in flont of the axle center and 6" behind, there is about 1/8" toe out.  I measured 52 1/8" in front, and 52" behind.  Is that close enough, or is that what was meant by saying you could use a tape to see if it is way off?

Thanks for the help.  I was wanting to put the thing together, but not if it's not right.

John

Yeah thats what I meant.  As to much how you can get away with, I'm not sure.  There is a factory spec but I have no idea what it is or where to find it.  Being that you will probably be running a tire that is atleast 26 inches tall, the 1/8 inch figure will be multiplied, making it far worse than the 1/8 inch difference you measured at only 6 inches from center.  The guy offered to make another housing for you, I'd either take him up on it, or take the componants and let someone else do it.  I had to re-do the rear under my car because someone didnt get the flanges parallel, and the mistake chewed up a $300 something dollar set of slicks.

[signet]

the mount area for the third member is your flat/plane the flanges are to be 90 degs off of that for it to be right.

then there is the axle centerline this is to be a "line" right through the unit flange to flange and 90 degs to the flanges and 180 degs to the mount face.

anything else in wrong.

there may be some reasons for angles other than these but not for a car that turns left and right and rides on even pavement.

[68droptop]

I think the guy may have also taken more than 1/2" per side.  My housing is now 50.5" on the outside surface of flange to flange.

In the Tech Pages, under Axle Measurements, it show an 8.75" A-Body to have a flange to flange width of 51.4".  Can someone tell me if that 51.4" measurement is the center of the flange or the outside surface of the flange? 

Thanks!

[68droptop]

I found in a search that the consensus is that the A body stock housing is not 51.4" (that the chart is wrong) and the 52 13/64" outside of flange to flange is the right demension.  Does everyone agree?

I wish I could measure mine, but it's now been cut...  Since my housing now measures 50.5" outside of flange to flange, I think the math is as follows:

52 13/64" or 52.2" - 50.5" =  1.7" / 2 = 0.85" per side removed, not 0.5" narrow per side as I requested.  That would explain why after I cut 1/2" off of each axle, the axles won't go all the way in.

So I guess except for wasting the first housing, cutting the A-body housing (that was not supposed to be cut), cutting it too narrower than requested, and not putting it together straight and true, the guy did a great job!  Would it surprise anyone the they were only GM cars in the guys shop?  This is the first thing on this car the I didn't do myself because I was afraid I wouldn't get it perfect...

[NYrr496]

On the bright side, the welds look nice. 

[joesnow]

I would get the parts for a new housing  and get someone else to put it together. Mouser will do them. Shipping might not be too bad for a empty housing. Now is good time as any to mini tub and bb axles. 

[jamesdart]

i cant speak for the measurement but the ends could be right the way they are mounted. as far as your 1/8" toe measurement, it wont be exagerated on the 26" tire  youd have to bend the axle for that to happen. your bearings might not last too long but i cant see how it is going to alter your wheel alignment. id just take it somewhere and have it checked. with out the right tools we are all just guessing if its good or bad.

[ski]

I found in a search that the consensus is that the A body stock housing is not 51.4" (that the chart is wrong) and the 52 13/64" outside of flange to flange is the right demension.  Does everyone agree?

I just measured two different stock A body rears. They're all together so I went from the inside of the flange to inside of the other flange.  I have right at 52 1/8 " so that 52 13/16 looks good if each flange is a hair more than 1/4 inch thick.

[4spdfury]

pickup housings sometimes get bent so the tube and the end dont line up the same. we have a steel machined shaft that runs from the housing end to the center section, the end have steel flanges that bolt to the housing end and another one that get put where the bearings go from your carrier. that is how we do our rear ends.so some times when there is a bent tube it looks like the one in your pics.ive seen alot worse.

[sickt7cuda]

Next time you go for work, make sure you don't take it to an equal opportunity employer.  Sorry, just couldn't resist.

[68droptop]

Well I finally got my rear end back and got it all together with the 335/30-20 tires on the back.  Quite a bit taller (and wider) than the 305/25's...

I know some people don't like the Pro Touring look, but what do you think?

[GON_RACIN]

looks good 

[Dartsport]

   Looks Good!!

[abqdart]

Hell yeah looks good....Looks like a muscle machine!!!

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

I found in a search that the consensus is that the A body stock housing is not 51.4" (that the chart is wrong) and the 52 13/64" outside of flange to flange is the right demension.  Does everyone agree?

I just measured two different stock A body rears. They're all together so I went from the inside of the flange to inside of the other flange.  I have right at 52 1/8 " so that 52 13/16 looks good if each flange is a hair more than 1/4 inch thick.

  Just measured mine 52 13/16 outside also. Someones needs to update the chart.

[Wicked70dart]

I had mine narrowed by moser, they did my housing and 35 spline axles. Mine looked the same way, flanges are align to the center of the tube as per moser. They said there nothing wrong so I assembled the rear end, axles went right in and have not had any problems. Ran 10.30 so far with no problems. Matt 

[bigtimeauto]

SWEET! I like this pic the best:

[Capt Jack]

love to see a few pics with the top down.

[67Dart383]

    Dam yo DART looks good, was it already mini tubbed? It's amazing how different you set-up changes the stance!  Keep up the good work!

[thecarfarmer]

I never was into it, but...

...I know some people don't like the Pro Touring look, but what do you think?

...I might be coming around.  That looks really cool!

-bill

[68droptop]

Thanks guys!  The mini-tub was my last winter project.  I used an adjustable height inboard rear spring relocation kit that allowed me to lower the front spring mounts.  It has super stock springs.  As described earlier in the thread, I had to narrow the rear slightly to make room for the bigger tires.  While I was at it I moved the rear back 3/4" to provide additional clearance at the front of the opening.  The front end just has tubular upper arms and big Firm Feel bars so I can have it low without bottoming.  I cut down the stops, but left some rubber just in case.  I want to go to the Alter-K as soon as I can afford it.  Here's a couple more pics...