Making good brake line flares..or trying to...*Update with Pics*

[ValiantOne]

Can you guys give me some tips on making good brake line flares. I bought a flaring kit this weekend so I can start re-brake-lining my 66 Val.

I have been doing some practice flares on old 3/16's lines to try and get the process down. What I end up with looks like it may seal ok, but it sure ain't as pretty as the factory flares.

I have been very carfull to cut the line off square and chamfer the edges. But when I go to do the second "squish" with the tool, the flare seems to get lopsided.

What am I missing here?

Thanks!

Chris E.

[doug 371]

i suck at that too

[loiq]

I've tried many, many times, never been able to do it. I don't even think it's possible.

[ValiantOne]

Well that gives me some confidence

they really do look like they will seal ok, but I don't want to spend HOURS bending $$$ worth of line, just to have a DOT 3 sprinkler system when I am done

[sycboi]

Are you leaving too much line to be flared?  The amount of line should be exactly level with the step in the flaring die when the die is sat beside the protruding hardline after it's clamped in the tool...

-Michael

[ski]

Are you leaving too much line to be flared?  The amount of line should be exactly level with the step in the flaring die when the die is sat beside the protruding hardline after it's clamped in the tool...

-Michael

 

[ValiantOne]

Are you leaving too much line to be flared?  The amount of line should be exactly level with the step in the flaring die when the die is sat beside the protruding hardline after it's clamped in the tool...

-Michael

Yep, I was real careful about that too.

Could it be that I was using old tubing? It wasn't rusty or anything.

??

[sr71mopar]

How are you cutting the tubing? A square cut with clean deburred edges helps.

[b569rr]

I agree with Michael and others. Too much left to be double flared and the tubing will push off center. A tubing cutter (Ridgid pipe cutter) is the best way to cut your tube. And a quality double flare kit helps.

Also, do not tighten more than required. If you do, the tube with twist off center and sometimes split. I have successfully double flared stainless tubing on my Road Runner and Dart thanks to tips by B.B.D. memembers.

[joesnow]

It sounds like you have too much tubing sticking out of the tool. You only need the same length as the thickness of the double flare piece.Ream and file the tubing before you start also.

[NYrr496]

Add a drop of lube where the anvil swivels on the threaded shaft. I have a Snap on flaring tool and it worked a little funny til I did that.

[dangerdawg]

Add a drop of lube where the anvil swivels on the threaded shaft. I have a Snap on flaring tool and it worked a little funny til I did that.

  mine did too. keep practiceing.

[bbscamp]

1:  make sure the line is level (the right length).  2:  put a drop of BRAKE ASSEMBLY LUBE between the die and line, and between the line and cone when forming the flare.
3:  a good quality tubing flare tool is what you need.  Those $19 Craftsmen type are awful.    They are only good for single flares in copper....not double flares in steel.  Get a good flare tool!!!  good luck

[CudaDon65]

1:  make sure the line is level (the right length).  2:  put a drop of BRAKE ASSEMBLY LUBE between the die and line, and between the line and cone when forming the flare.
3:  a good quality tubing flare tool is what you need.  Those $19 Craftsmen type are awful.    They are only good for single flares in copper....not double flares in steel.  Get a good flare tool!!!  good luck

[loiq]

3:  a good quality tubing flare tool is what you need.  Those $19 Craftsmen type are awful.    They are only good for single flares in copper....not double flares in steel.  Get a good flare tool!!!  good luck

I think that's most of my problem, I just have a hardware store double flaring tool.

[rharveysr]

Brand name?  I need to order one for the tool box..

Rick

[NYrr496]

Snap on is good, I've also used a Ridgid... Pretty good too.

[ValiantOne]

so far the only thing I haven't tried is the lube. I'll give that a go.

My flaring tool is from Autozone. It isn't the top jimmy, but over all it seems decent. I also have a spare "clamp part" from another set that I may try too.

I may get a better tubing cutter too. I have one of those mini deals. A pain to work with. I also tried a whizzer wheel and then trued everything up with a file. Because I do a lot  of small work on guns, I am VERY proficient with a file

Guess I'll keep practicing.

I'd still like to know if you guys actually get "factory" looking flares when everthing works right?

Thanks,

[NYrr496]

I guess they look factory. Who cares what they look like? As long as they don't leak.

[ski]

Chris, This is what I use.  The flaring set is a MATCO but I've seen the exact same set with other name brands on it.  It's aways worked great for me.  I think they go for about 45 bucks new but I got mine at a swap meet.  The bender is a cheapo 20 dollar job.  I use the mini tubing cutter which is fine if it's a good one.

ski

[69 GTS Clonvertible]

so far the only thing I haven't tried is the lube. I'll give that a go.

My flaring tool is from Autozone. It isn't the top jimmy, but over all it seems decent. I also have a spare "clamp part" from another set that I may try too.

I may get a better tubing cutter too. I have one of those mini deals. A pain to work with. I also tried a whizzer wheel and then trued everything up with a file. Because I do a lot of small work on guns, I am VERY proficient with a file

Guess I'll keep practicing.

I'd still like to know if you guys actually get "factory" looking flares when everthing works right?

Thanks,

I have the one from autozone or checker also, the only problem I seen was that the clamping tool that holds the tube creates a small bur at the seam area on the back side of the flare where the 2 halves of the tool come together, and I just filed it off. Also make sure the 2 halves of the tool are clamped down tight and flush. The lube is also good to use, I just used the drops of dot3 that were still in the lines. One last item on the old practice lines make certain the outside is clean and free of gunk, use some emery cloth to clean it. My .02

[william]

I have found Weatherhead flare kit to work best.
I got my at NAPA

[73swinger]

Chris, This is what I use.  The flaring set is a MATCO but I've seen the exact same set with other name brands on it.  It's aways worked great for me.  I think they go for about 45 bucks new but I got mine at a swap meet.  The bender is a cheapo 20 dollar job.  I use the mini tubing cutter which is fine if it's a good one.

ski
[/quote I absolutely hate those cheap ass benders. Everytime I've tried to used them on steel line, it kinks. As far as I'm concerned Rigid style benders work the best, and the flare tools with rollers in the anvil work best too...or some lube and some patience on the other type

[Cpt Panzer]

I found that with some of the cheaper kits when you leave the end to be flared at the same height as the first step on the die its actualy to much material try to set it slightly lower than the first step. also you can back the tool off and check your progress. with a double flare some times less is more

[Dartsport]

I use a Snap-On flaring kit, made by Blue Point. I have used it for over 20 years in my business. It works good. I taught my 11 year old son how to double flare brake lines this spring. I showed him how to do a double flare twice. Then I let him practice on some extra pieces of brake tubing. His 1st one, was the only one that wasn't good.......

[NYrr496]

I use a Snap-On flaring kit, made by Blue Point. I have used it for over 20 years in my business. It works good. I taught my 11 year old son how to double flare brake lines this spring. I showed him how to do a double flare twice. Then I let him practice on some extra pieces of brake tubing. His 1st one, was the only one that wasn't good.......

Nice. My stepson is 16 and I was just able to teach him how to repair a flat on his BICYCLE. Big dope.

[75Dart440]

I have had good luck flaring mild steel brake line in 3/16 and 1/4 " with the el cheapo double flaring kits out there, but stainless is a whole-nother story.  One thing that helps with both types of metal, is to cut it square on the ends, and cut it using a method that limits the amount of work hardening on the end of the tube.  If you work harden the end, the last stage (double flare) is harder than hell to get straight.

Also be sure that there is no seam or flashing from the welded seam in the inside of the tube.  That will create more resistance on that side of the tube.  Some tubing is just plain inconsistent with it's wall thickness, which also causes this problem.  Stainless tubing is available in hard and soft as well.  The soft is obviously the better choice for double flares.

I ended all of my problems this past Sept while trying to fabricate stainless brake lines for my Dart.......I broke down and bought a MasterCool Hydra flare kit.  I threw my old flariing tool away!!  Never again will I go back to the old way of doing these flares!!!

[fourspeed]

I got a K-D from NAPA. Works good most of the time. Once in while I get a egg-shaped flare.

I get the bulk brake line. Comes in a roll. It's easy to bend by hand without kinks.

[ValiantOne]

Hey, thanks again for all the tips guys. I'll be out there on Saturday again, trying to get this brake system wrapped up.

I'll definitely post on how things went!

[rharveysr]

We will be running brake lines and also solid fuel likes that we want to use AN filtting...I have heard that the AN fittings is 37* and the brake lines are 45*..is this true. If that is the case we will need 2 flairing tools.

Thanks
Rick