spring relocation confusion

[kenny b]

I finished my spring relocation a couple of weeks ago on my 1971 Demon and am now confused. I have seen where some people on this sight have notched the inside of the frame rails and others have notched the outside of the frame. The latest is where both sides of the frame have been removed and the new boxes been installed in the middle of where the frame used to be. I removed the inside of my rails  and am now wondering if I did it right. My kit came from Mancini's and I followed the instructions. How important is it and do different kits have different installation instructions.

[Think3205]

 

[jet-taz]

some say the extra material on one side is stronger. but's limit how much to move the springs. i got both on mine.

[Ace]

I left the outside part of the stock "rail" in place so I had a stock location of the spring mount bolt.  I moved mine back 1" from there though.  Not sure if there is a "right" or "wrong" way to do it, that's just the way I did it.

[fourspeed]

I centered mine because it just seemed right, but I can see the benefit of leaving the outer rail intact. It would be a little stronger, and it will also give you a little more tire clearance.

[Mopartist]

I cut both sides and mounted the outside plumb with the frame rail. I'm not sure if it is right or not; but I didn't want to leave one side un-welded. The inside already is difficult to weld along the top of the box because of the floor (which I cut out an access patch). I didn't want both sides to not be totally accessable.

[Crazy68Dart]

To get the most tire clearance, leave the outside of the rail, and mount to the inside.  There is really no wrong way, but if you do it, you might as well do it to gain the most clearance, since that is the overall goal to begin with.

[bOb shingler]

To get the most tire clearance, leave the outside of the rail, and mount to the inside.  There is really no wrong way, but if you do it, you might as well do it to gain the most clearance, since that is the overall goal to begin with.

   

[375InStroke]

E-bodies have angled leaf springs, so I don't think keeping the leafs parallel is that important, but since the purpose is to gain clearance, I'll agree to keep the outside rail and move inward.

[Mopartist]

If you leave the outside rail; I'm just wondering what you do with the overlapped surface that you can't get to (esapecially along the top)

[sycboi]

If you leave the outside rail; I'm just wondering what you do with the overlapped surface that you can't get to (esapecially along the top)

Drill holes and plug weld is how we did mine.  At the front of the box we used some angle on the front of the box against the framerail to further strengthen...

-Michael

[ksdartguy]

If you leave the outside rail; I'm just wondering what you do with the overlapped surface that you can't get to (esapecially along the top)

Drill holes and plug weld is how we did mine. At the front of the box we used some angle on the front of the box against the framerail to further strengthen...

-Michael

Im just getting started on mine, but I was going to leave the outer, and move the mount hole back 1 inch.
A few plug welds would give it more support.   
Rick
 

[ep87]

I'm getting ready to do this and plan leaving the outside of the frame rail and doing the plug weld thing, but my real concern is the back mount tube, even if I mount the tube as far to the inside as possible the spring won't be even or parallel with the frame rail by the width of the outside frame rail and the box. Any ideas how to deal with this? or am I missing something.

Richard

[CudaSRT8]

Yeah, what ep87 said.  The front and rear would not line up that well.  Are offset shackles made to compensate for this?
O.J.

[sycboi]

Yeah, what ep87 said.  The front and rear would not line up that well.  Are offset shackles made to compensate for this?
O.J.

Yes, you can use offset shakles or use sliders offset on the rails to keep the springs inline...

-Michael

[ep87]

Yeah, what ep87 said.  The front and rear would not line up that well.  Are offset shackles made to compensate for this?
O.J.

Yes, you can use offset shakles or use sliders offset on the rails to keep the springs inline...

-Michael

Thats a great idea .I checked cambell enterprises and they list there offset shackles as .80 offset which would be plenty to adjust for the boxes not being centered. I think what I'll do is mount the front box's as planned and then slide the rear mounting tube in the frame, install the offset
hanger and the spring minus the rear end and slide the tube in or out till the spring measures parralel front and rear tack it in then, thenpull it apart
and weld it in.
Richard

[Mopartist]

I went with the slider method. After mounting the front of the leafs in the new boxes; I attached the sliders to the leaf springs; and pivoted the rear leaf up to the frame rail. Since the slider is way wider than the rail; you just mark it where it naturally sits. Then  weld some angle iron to the slider to be able to box it to the frame rail. So far; mine are just tacked on until I get some weight on the rear end to make sure it is in alignment.

[thecarfarmer]

If you leave one wall remaining of the original frame rail, it should be slightly stronger - more material.  That's the way I did mine.

I didn't worry about the slight difference in distance between the front and rear spring eyes; as was mentioned earlier on this thread, it's WAY less than Ma MoPar engineered into her E-body cars.

I just centered the spring on the rail at the rear, and didn't have any problems with the bushings binding; and that's even using nylatron (graphite-impregnated hard nylon) bushings in the front spring eyes.

By the way (cheesy product plug), the Advantage piece I sell doesn't force you to cut away the original rail all the way up to the floor pan where you weld it to the rail.  I'll attach a picture of a customer's Demon that will show what I'm talking about.

As you can see, there's tons of room with the wheel tubs out...

-Bill

[ab7fh]

Does the spring relocation kit come with a template for cutting the frame?

[68_Val_Sedan]

no but you could easily make one with cardboard by tracing the front hanger box that comes with the kit ....

[DartCustom496]

I moved mine inside, only left enough to get a nice bead of weld , it all comes down to have much tire clearance you are looking for.

[abqdart]

What shocks are you guys running AFTER the spring relocation?

[bOb shingler]

QA1

[smallbigblock]

This question's for those people that kept thier outside frame rail intact...how did you weldup the inside top of the new spring box.  That's pretty tight quaters, I read one post that cut an access hole in the floor.  Is that what everyone did?

Just want to make sure I know what I'm getting my self in to.

[hemi62valiant]

When you relocate the springs, do you have to put in a fuel cell? I was wanting to make mine look as stock as possible and still have a fatter tire and dual exhaust.

[440Demon]

No you don't need a fuel cell, but you probably
won't get an exhaust system to fit through there anymore.
Also you can see what happens when you offset the box,
my rear spring hanger is not in the center.

[hemi62valiant]

Thanks 440 Demon. What was the width of your rear end flange to flange and what size tire could you fit between the rails.How much backspacing? I plan to use 15X7 cop wheels and would like 265X15 (26 in tall) tires.

[73swinger]

No you don't need a fuel cell, but you probably
won't get an exhaust system to fit through there anymore.
Also you can see what happens when you offset the box,
my rear spring hanger is not in the center.

Oh Damn, I'm planning to do this work over the winter and really want to keep my full exhaust. Can anyone show pics of what they did?

[smallbigblock]

That's a great picture 440 Demon.  Did you keep the outside framerail when you installed the spring relo kit. 

[elliskev2]

   Do you have to center your fuel tank?