New 12pt Chromoly Cage (update pics)

[Dartdragracer]

Hey guys, I just got my car back from the chassis builder. What do you think of the cage?
I had planned on fixing the 8pt mild steel cage that was scabbed into the car when i purchased it, but....
After looking at what it would take to fix what I had and make it a 12 pt, I decided to cut it out and go with a brand new one.
I had to fix the floors anyway, and this allowed me to have it tied directly to the frame and connectors. It'll defintly stiffen the car up some.
Now I get to look foward to painting the cage and re-wiring my whole car over the winter.
Plans are for new upper A-arms and new Wilwood disc all around.
Should be a fun winter........

[Dartsport]

Looks good!!     

[jamesdart]

nice fit. it almost looks like you migged it, i guess the pics are decieving.

[75Dart440]

Good Job on the cage!!

How did you stress relieve the weld joints?

When I worked at Hobart Brothers welding division, I used to run 4130 flux cored MIG wire on my production machine.  Never got a hold of any of it to try it out.

[mopowers]

How did you stress relieve the weld joints?

What does this mean?

[wickedfirefighter]

How did you stress relieve the weld joints?

What does this mean?

                    

THE NEW CAGE LOOKS SWEET..LOOKS  ALOT BETTER THAN MINE DOES 

[Think3205]

sweet looks good! i'm getting a 12pt cage in mine now too! i'm having it done though...

[75Dart440]

Typically, Chrome-Moly requires stress relieving after being welded.  Usually the entire part is heated and cooled at a certain rate to relieve the stress on the welded joints.  On a cage installed in a race car, you would have to heat and slowly cool the areas using localized heat at the weld joint.

From Lincoln Welding site:

Q. Do I need to heat treat (stress relieve) 4130 after welding?
A. Thin wall tubing normally does not require stress relief. For parts thicker than .120", stress-relieving is recommended and 1,100ºF is the optimum temperature for tubing applications. An Oxy/Acetylene torch with neutral flame can be used. It should be oscillated to avoid hot spots.

[dartracer]

Did they MIG chromoly? The cage does look good. Is this a srteet car or a full tilt race car?

[mopowers]

The cage looks awesome.  One thing I noticed is the plates that the rear struts go to don't appear to be 6" x 6".  I thought this was a rule?

[Dartdragracer]

All of the tubing is TIG welded, the plates and mounts to the sheet metal and frame are MIG welded.
With the 1 5/8" x .083 Moly tubing, stress relieving is not required, although a skilled welder is.
I did not do this work myself, I took it to a qualified chassis builder. I'd rather pay alittle extra (and his price was very reasonable) and have something like this done correctly
than to mess it up on my own.
He guaranteed me it will cert. with no problems and being that he was in the process of building a 7 sec. Pro-Mod 41 Willy's
and I have seen many 7-8 second tube chassis cars he has built, I have no doubt he is correct.

This car will primarily be a drag car (98%), although I plan on retaining "most" everything I need for the street. Brake lights, Head lights, turn signals (I have to make a new switch), etc.
To put it on the street, I only have to bolt on the mufflers, and switch the 10.5W slicks to a radial tire. I've been written tickets before for not have functional windshield wipers....I'll take my chances again.
I am not going to put any decals or big lettering on the car to keep it very street appearing other than the Lexan side windows.....
I've been drag racing it for 3 years now and was consistantly running high 11's with a non ported Iron head 440, 509 292 cam, 825 demon, and TTI headers. The 4:30 gear ratio isn't great on the street, but it pulled 1.58-1.62 60' times all day at the strip.  I pulled the motor right out of my street driven 69 Charger swapped intakes and carbs and put it in this car to go racing. The original 383 is going back in the Charger.

For now, I'm just going to freshen up the 440 with new highr comp. forged pistons, a larger cam, and do some mild porting on the heads. Maybe a 150 shot of NOS, not sure yet on that.
After I get the chassis built correctly and lightened up, I will build nice 500" stroker for it with Alum Heads.

[68_Val_Sedan]

that is some very nice work ... sounds like you havea good plan for the rest of it as well ... keep us up to date with more pics !!!

[TrxR]

Nice cage. I am still trying to decide whether to go with a chromoly or mild steel for my street/strip Dakota . It will be about 75%/25% street/strip.

[Bugsy]

What size tubing did you use to triangulate the roof? Would you mind passing along the name of the chassis builder who did it? It looks VERY nice.

[Dartdragracer]

Chassis builer was EC1 Racecars in Davison Mi.
I would have to check the diameter or the cross tube for the roof.
I will measure it tonight and post a reply later.

[Bakaruda]

Cool, what class are you going to run?

[Dartdragracer]

I run Pro (no-box) bracket at Mid Michigan Motorplex.

[Dartdragracer]

I've finally finished painting......

[That One Guy]

looks good, can't wait til mine's in, it'll be a couple months yet though

[440valiant]

hah is that tin foil over the steering column??

[Bakaruda]

Man it looks good.

['73Dusta]

That is one fine looking piece of work.  Keep the pictures coming.

[Dartdragracer]

hah is that tin foil over the steering column??

 

Yes, thats tin foil, it makes a great masking material,no tape required.