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Author Topic: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body  (Read 699 times)
yellowsno
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chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« on: December 11, 2007, 09:46:25 PM »

I am narrowing a 9.25 rear axle for my 67 dart. I am currious why the pinion yolk is off center.  And I am wondering how much and if it really matters?
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2007, 10:58:26 PM »

I am narrowing the 9.25 and the 7.25 is offset by what I can tell .5-1.5 inches.  Huh  Im kinda lost.  I know what I have to do to narrow it but the offset is stoping me.
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2007, 11:55:01 PM »

Its offset to match the offset of the engine / trans towards the passenger side.
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yellowsno
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2007, 07:15:40 PM »

so how much is the offset?  is it differrent between the 904 and the 727 trans.?
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2007, 11:35:26 PM »

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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2007, 01:00:16 PM »

i thought the 9 1/4 couldn't be cut down due to the axles being tapored?
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MyCreation68
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2007, 03:34:53 PM »

I know the axle tubes are tapered but I don't know if the axles are.
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yellowsno
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2007, 10:17:39 PM »

I have to get custom ones from moser or make my own
I have the equipment to make some
but the offset is the thing that is stoping me from from getting further
I think it is .75 inch not sure though.
going to check out link....
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yellowsno
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2007, 10:28:43 PM »

Im understanding that it doesnt really matter
Thats why the man made u joints
4x4 trucks have huce angles on their u joints and they work? dont they?
and they say that the needle bearings have to keep moving
so a little off is good than...?
huh...
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2007, 05:18:51 AM »

to much u-joint angle makes  explode  personally measure the housing. I'm still against using the 9.25 rear axle but it's your car and your decision.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway.

-84 Dodge Ramcharger 318 auto 4x4 atc stock beast
-68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2007, 10:33:15 AM »

Please let us know how your install is going, and add some pics. 
I too am debating about using the 9 1/4 and here are my reasons:

     1. They are cheap and very available
     2.  Parts and labor to work on them is cheaper than 8 3/4
     3.  Local shops still no how to set them up (I know nothing)
     4.  They are very strong

I would love to have an 8 3/4 but here in the great northwest they are not very abundant, and when you do find them they cost a fortune.

I know the 9 1/4 is strong from personnel experience.   

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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2007, 05:18:20 PM »

I know the 9 1/4 is strong from personnel experience.   
Not as strong as you may think. When I actually get to putting a diesel in my ramcharger(who knows when) I'll have replaced the rear 9 1/4 with a Dana 70 and the front Dana 44 with a Dana 60.

Actually I almost blew my rearend up in my SS/T(9 1/4) just doing burnouts with a stock motor.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway.

-84 Dodge Ramcharger 318 auto 4x4 atc stock beast
-68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress
-46 Fargo
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #12 on: December 15, 2007, 08:48:46 AM »

how do you "alomst blow your rear up? either it broke or it didnt?  the 9 1/4 is plenty strong, the problem with putting a truck housing in a car is the tapered tubes which is not a big deal when you stick the jig through it, it holds everything in place. if the housing ends fit inside the tubes, there is nothing wrong with that. you want a little more or a little less offset than the transmision, the driveshaft should have a slight offset side to side so the ujoint bearings are always moving in both directions.
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2007, 02:22:42 PM »

Actually I almost blew my rearend up in my SS/T(9 1/4) just doing burnouts with a stock motor.

ditto for my SS/T.  a few hard burnouts and my 9.25 was howling like a wounded coyote.
thank god it was still under warranty.

however, hasnt done it since it was repaired.
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2007, 10:25:00 PM »

I would not use a 9 1/4 rear. Just my 2 cents. I had one in my '86 w100. Bears howed from new, then after they were fixed, then I had the gears changed from 3.23 to 3.91 and a factory limited slip. Then blow the springs out of the carrier.I then went with a dana 60. The truck was just a 318 2bl a/t with 33's. I have heard of quite a few 1500 with the rears going. I bought a 2500 this time. I would not waste my time with a 9 1/4 , I would look for a truck 60 or a bare 8 3/4 and have it shipped. It should not be that much empty.
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #15 on: December 18, 2007, 12:44:51 AM »

8.8 Ford rear out of a mid-late 90's Explorer, Ranger......31 Spline axles, Trac-loc good gears...disk brakes all for under $300
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #16 on: December 18, 2007, 02:55:28 PM »

Well I can't argue how or if Chrysler changed the way they manufactured the 9 1/4 over the years, but I can say without hesitation that the 9 1/4's I have had where much stronger than the above examples.  I bought a new 1978 dodge PW with a 440 from the factory, yah I know very low HP but still with respectable torque.  Just after the 1 year warranty was up, I built a 69 440 with the help of a local racer that had a big shop in our area, Grant Springer.  This thing was better than my 68 roadrunner.  It was fast, and I didn’t fret about pulling the trigger.  I was young but I dove that truck like it belonged to my rich uncle (nope, no respect).  I really abused that thing.  Once during an ice storm I tried to drive my wife’s Volvo up a long ice covered hill.  Well I got about 300 yards up the mile and a quarter hill and it wouldn’t go anymore.  It was too icy to back down and we needed the car.  Brilliant idea I’ll just pull it up the rest of the hill with my dodge right?  Well I did, but it was a process of spin the tires on the ice until the tire got traction all the way up the hill.  This took about a hour but we made it. The next day I had $900 bill to replace my front end.  This is only a sample of the torture that I put this 9 ¼ through.  I kept that truck for thirteen years and about 200,000 miles I never touched the rearend, except to put a lifting block and longer u-bolts under it.  My brother has a 77 same as mine except with a littler hotter cam and lower gears 3.92’s.  He still owns that truck today, and he was and is harder on it than I was on mine.

I have had other 9 ¼’s since then and I have done many burn-outs and I have not had one problem with this rearend.

Sorry for the long post, I just want to set the record straight.
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Tacfire11
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2007, 09:33:40 PM »

8.8 Ford rear out of a mid-late 90's Explorer, Ranger......31 Spline axles, Trac-loc good gears...disk brakes all for under $300

Ditto - Even cutting down the Axle tubes, new Axles, disc brakes, and new lines still came in under $300, plus you get them for a song at the local salvage yard.  Posi-Trac sections aren't bad either, about $300 from Summit of mancini if you want a new one. 
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #18 on: December 19, 2007, 06:55:41 AM »

Well I can't argue how or if Chrysler changed the way they manufactured the 9 1/4 over the years, but I can say without hesitation that the 9 1/4's I have had where much stronger than the above examples.  I bought a new 1978 dodge PW with a 440 from the factory, yah I know very low HP but still with respectable torque.  Just after the 1 year warranty was up, I built a 69 440 with the help of a local racer that had a big shop in our area, Grant Springer.  This thing was better than my 68 roadrunner.  It was fast, and I didn’t fret about pulling the trigger.  I was young but I dove that truck like it belonged to my rich uncle (nope, no respect).  I really abused that thing.  Once during an ice storm I tried to drive my wife’s Volvo up a long ice covered hill.  Well I got about 300 yards up the mile and a quarter hill and it wouldn’t go anymore.  It was too icy to back down and we needed the car.  Brilliant idea I’ll just pull it up the rest of the hill with my dodge right?  Well I did, but it was a process of spin the tires on the ice until the tire got traction all the way up the hill.  This took about a hour but we made it. The next day I had $900 bill to replace my front end.  This is only a sample of the torture that I put this 9 ¼ through.  I kept that truck for thirteen years and about 200,000 miles I never touched the rearend, except to put a lifting block and longer u-bolts under it.  My brother has a 77 same as mine except with a littler hotter cam and lower gears 3.92’s.  He still owns that truck today, and he was and is harder on it than I was on mine.

I have had other 9 ¼’s since then and I have done many burn-outs and I have not had one problem with this rearend.

Sorry for the long post, I just want to set the record straight.

Sorry but I've driven my truck hard but not as hard as a 600 hp engine would. My truck has a 98 5.9 with 245 hp stock and once I start putting money into more hp the rearends getting replace by a Dana 60 because I don't feel like getting the rear fixed.

I mean who knows maybe it's whoever does the buildup of that rearend but I've got a 9 1/4 in my 84 ramcharger(engine has 147 hp and I am already developing a howl) and the one in my SST and I'd never build one up so who knows if you want my old one in spring sometime come get it because when I get my 8 lug dana 60 the 9 1/4 will be unceremoniously tossed into the backyard.
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Teach a child to be polite and courteous and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to merge his car onto the freeway.

-84 Dodge Ramcharger 318 auto 4x4 atc stock beast
-68 Dodge Dart GT 6cyl auto buckets console work in progress
-46 Fargo
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Re: chrysler 9 1/4 in an A-Body
« Reply #19 on: December 19, 2007, 07:53:57 AM »

 motorinstall  - Man, didn't realize you were putting that much power to the wheels Smiley  Obvisously not going to be daily driver Smiley.  Good Luck, not sure what rear the Durango has in it, but they are about the same width as an A body, you may just have to cut off the shock mounts, and of course have new axles cut.   Best of luck, please post some pictures when you get her finished.  Hope you have a Happy Holiday...

Pat
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