Best way to roll / trim fender lip

[440+6Scamp]

Unfortunately, the car has been painted already.  I also want to reuse the fender well trim (which as you know screws into the lip).  So, what's the best method to gain as much tire clearance as possible, still be able to mount the trim, and not hurt the fresh paint? 

[512Stroker]

I think it is going to be really hard to do enough trimming/stretching/whatever.  I would be afraid of somehow cracking the paint and then there is also the problem with leaving enough lip to use the stock trim.  Best of luck though.  Maybe someone here has accomplished this and it turned out well.

[rjsjea]

Dont think it can be done without hurting the paint.....after all you got to cut the metal under the paint. 

Put the trim on, mark the excess metal to be cut (edge of trim) with  a sharpie, remove trim and cut off what you can with a cut off wheel........go slow, to not heat it up too much.

[71 demon child]

An air hacksaw works ok.Just take it slow and follow the line that's marked.

[flyboy01]

I use the 2" E-Z Lock metal cutoff discs by Dremel, they cut well and don't generate a ton of heat, it might take about 15 discs to cut both sides though. Probably about $20-30 for the spindle and that many discs. I used them to cuth the hole in my hood and bracing. I used tinsnips on my fenders, but it was long before paint and bodywork.

[damopars]

I use the 2" E-Z Lock metal cutoff discs by Dremel, they cut well and don't generate a ton of heat, it might take about 15 discs to cut both sides though. Probably about $20-30 for the spindle and that many discs. I used them to cuth the hole in my hood and bracing. I used tinsnips on my fenders, but it was long before paint and bodywork.

That's the way I just did it with the car in paint.
If you plan on cutting off about 1/2 inch you will not have enough metal to use trim molding.I used tape as a line and cut notches then cut to long ways. 10 disc do get it done.  Go slow.

[Bakaruda]

Not sure what that would be.

[jbarker]

Hey guys- this can definitely be done without hurrting the paint.  I trimmed both my wheel well lips in about 90 minutes (taking my time).  I gained a full half inch of clearance each side.  I was able to maintain my stock wheel well trim.  I used a 3" pneumatic cut off tool (whiz-wheel), and after close inspection, I could see absolutely no evidence of heat related damage to my paint afterwards.  I really have no skill when it comes to bodywork, but this job was easy, went smooth, and I feel turned out quite well.
Here's how I did it:
I trimed the lips even with the inside of the
wheelwell after marking with a permanent marker.  Which means I DID trim off the screws holding the trim on.  BUT, VERY IMPORTANT:  I didn't trim off the lip along the entire length, because, like you, I wanted to be able to retain my wheel well trim.  So I left 2 small tabs which I then folded up to help support the trim.  Folding only 2 small tabs was MUCH easier then folding an entire length of wheel well lip, and I feel that it provides adequate support for the trim.  To fold the tabs, I first bent the tabs upwards slightly, and then completed the fold by squeezing the tab and outside of fender together with channel locks.  I used an old bicycle innertube folded into several (at least eight) layers as a pad to protect the outside of the fender from the channel lock jaws.  There was absolutely NO damage to the paint from the channel locks.   Using channel locks is a good way to provide a slow, controlled force to create a fold without hammering away and messing up the paint job. I'll post some links to pics below.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj251/jbarker496/010.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj251/jbarker496/012.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj251/jbarker496/011.jpg
The first pic is looking up at the fender lip from the ground.  The second two are a shot of the newly created fender lip tabs (looking from the inside of the wheel well).  IMO, the 2" dremel cut off tool is GREAT, but it is a bit small for this job.  It would definitley work, but it would take a while.  Hope this helps guys.  Let me know if anything doesn't make sense.
-Jay

[jbarker]

By the way, when I was done I gave the trim a good pull, and it really is still on there rock solid.

[dangerdawg]

   that looks pretty good.

[flyboy01]

One thing you have to look out for is cutting the spot welds. I ended up cutting mine out and the inner and outer seperated a bit, I had to clamp them back together and re-weld them. SO, don't cut past the spot welds if its already painted.

Before:


After:

[440+6Scamp]

Good info guys.  Thanks for the help.

[NYrr496]

There's some tool that bolts to the wheel studs and has wheels like a skateboard that roll the lip back supposedly without hurting the paint. I can't remember where I saw it.

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

By the way, when I was done I gave the trim a good pull, and it really is still on there rock solid.

Looks good.Mine are rolled up too by previous owner.If I install trim I will need to fix mine also.From the pictures it looks like you are outside laying in the snow.

[jbarker]

By the way, when I was done I gave the trim a good pull, and it really is still on there rock solid.

Looks good.Mine are rolled up too by previous owner.If I install trim I will need to fix mine also.From the pictures it looks like you are outside laying in the snow.

Il.dart-  yeah, I am laying in the snow taking these pics.  I live in Buffalo.  I hope that keeping my car outside in the snow doesn't get me in trouble with the fellas hea **(*)r on !  No place to store it.  I need a bigger garage.

[Tacfire11]

I use the 2" E-Z Lock metal cutoff discs by Dremel, they cut well and don't generate a ton of heat, it might take about 15 discs to cut both sides though. Probably about $20-30 for the spindle and that many discs. I used them to cuth the hole in my hood and bracing. I used tinsnips on my fenders, but it was long before paint and bodywork.

I'm planning on running 15x8 Tires, but shortened the rear to 50.25".  If I need to, I'm gonna keep this keep in my box of tricks just in case.  BTW, the 68' looks fantastic.  Hopefully mine will look as good when she hits the road in the spring.  Midnight Blue, Bumble Bee strips, and a 440 if all goes according to plan.

[NWPC73]

I like the Ideas I need to that to my son's 73 swinger not to point of paint but it is something I am gonna do before paint time just leaving a little lip to beable to put a body srew in thanx.

[flyboy01]

There's some tool that bolts to the wheel studs and has wheels like a skateboard that roll the lip back supposedly without hurting the paint. I can't remember where I saw it.

Eastwood sells it, its expensive for a single use tool, about $200.

[440+6Scamp]

Yeah, a buddy of mine has it.  He seemed to struggle w/ it... too ackward.  I could borrow it from him but I'm afraid that rolling the lip would be harder on the paint then trimming it (thoughts?).  I think I'll try Jay's method and leave 2 small tabs bent up to attach the trim.

[496dart]

dont know if this helps ,

i just made relief cuts on the lip about every inch .  Then i just beat it flat with a hammer and dolly , got it as nice as i could , then used a little filler before primer/paint.  It actually turned out pretty good---not perfect ,  but , hey , this aint no show car........

['73Dusta]

I was thinking along the same lines as 496Dart. I was wondering about the sharp edge cutting into the side wall. On a strip car you shouldn't have much side roll but on the street cornering would be my concern. I was thinking of triming then with a flat hammer or maybe like 496 says cut notches and bend up and flatten with a hammer to soften the edge. Now on a painted vehicle this is a lot harder and patients would be in order. Just my thoughts on the matter and direction I'm looking for my car

[440swinger-kid]

The eastwood one does work if your car is painted you need the heat up the metal with a heatgun or hair blower. This allows the paint to flex without chipping. My buddy has done it to his road runner and it worked you got to make a few passes adjusting it as you go to roll it up.

[guzzimike]

dont know if this helps ,

i just made relief cuts on the lip about every inch .  Then i just beat it flat with a hammer and dolly , got it as nice as i could , then used a little filler before primer/paint.  It actually turned out pretty good---not perfect ,  but , hey , this aint no show car........


 

 

That's exactly what I did to my 68.