A-body Heddman headers install w/ B engine.

[68_Val_Sedan]

Those pictures sealed the deal for me ... Mr Reilly will be getting a call from me once I start on my 68, the alterkation is the only way to go.  Those headers have almost as many clearance issues on that low deck as the 2" TTI's  that I swore I could make fit.  Only I spent the better part of 2 days beating and dinging with the car on a lift ... the TTI's won that battle ... just ask B569RR he has what is left of the headers ... 

[flyboy01]

With the alterkation, it would be an easy fit. I was actually thinking that even with the stock k-frame a coilover conversion would make this an easy fit.

[bigtimeauto]

With the alterkation you can even use a reg deck block and indy 440-1 heads with the TTI's and have tons of room.

[nightrider]

we all must be getting older and lazier, its not that much work... i'd rather ding headers than scrape undercoat!

[68snewpy]

Any more progress?     

[flyboy01]

there will be tomorrow, but I have to wait until I get my manual steereing box.

[RM440]

Eric, if you decide not to use the propart headers give me a shout and I will take them of your hands.

[mark8denny]

I just finished my install of a b engine and B body headers in a 69 Barracuda , here's a pic of the clearance needed to clear the driver t-bar. 

[mark8denny]

They were tight around the steering box and I even got them to fit with a mini starter but I used a paint pen and the torch and hammer alot , took em in and out like 30 times , !!! thank God for the lift !!

[mark8denny]

tube size leaves alot to be desired and now with the clearancing it's worse , but I have to keep into perspective that it'll be running soon ! A 400 low deck mounted on a DC K-member with factory spool mounts and manual steering + 74 Duster brakes and steering ,  Rock and Roll !

[flyboy01]

Still getting mine fitted, I can't do a lot without the steering box, I never thought it would be this hard to find a 73+ box. I bought a temporary early box, just so I can get the headers fit in. THe drivers side torsion bar needed a lot of clearancing like in your picture, I think I am going to order a few j bends and re-route a few inches of that tube. Another issue is the idler arm on the pass side, I made a dent, but it still does not clear, I might re-route that one too. Until I get a manual gox in there, I can't really tell.

[tony GTS]

will re-routing the header hurt its performance because I'm thinking about doing that to my swinger but i'm afraid to re-rout them because hooker said they were tuned?

[nightrider]

Still getting mine fitted, I can't do a lot without the steering box, I never thought it would be this hard to find a 73+ box. I bought a temporary early box, just so I can get the headers fit in. THe drivers side torsion bar needed a lot of clearancing like in your picture, I think I am going to order a few j bends and re-route a few inches of that tube. Another issue is the idler arm on the pass side, I made a dent, but it still does not clear, I might re-route that one too. Until I get a manual gox in there, I can't really tell.

Mine looks the same at the T-bar as well, gotta do what ya gotta do! If at first ya don't succeed, try a bigger hammer! 

[qkcuda]

I had to clearance mine the same way at the torsion bar, but it looks worse in the picture than it actually  is.  I figure the dent is about 1/3 of the diameter of the pipe and I have 1/4 inch clearance on the torsion bar.  The other dings are only about 1/2 inch each.   

[rharveysr]

You folks are doing a lot of work...Spend the money and time and still have to flatten spots in the tubes to get them to work....We are getting ready to start our header build!..yea thats right we are going to build ours. Done the calcs and the table tells us that we need 31.5" long tubes....Looking forward to starting it

Rick

[mark8denny]

"You folks are doing a lot of work...Spend the money and time and still have to flatten spots in the tubes to get them to work....We are getting ready to start our header build!..yea thats right we are going to build ours. Done the calcs and the table tells us that we need 31.5" long tubes....Looking forward to starting it"



Well we are talking about $100 bucks not $500 so that's why there is  interest in these cheap headers fitting our cars , Enjoy building your headers Rick , you'll probably have as much money in time invested as if you just bought a set of race headers,   Yeah , IMHO , it wasn't worth the time and effort for street headers , I'll buy the pro parts next time and be done ,or even the hookers, But being on a budget and in a hurry to get it on the road these headers'll do fine unless... , anyone want these hedmans ?  I'll sell em...work already done to them

Bottom line is they'll fit but there are better choices , but for 100$ they will work better than exhaust manifolds.

[warthog]

Here guys,  I bought two sets of swap meet headers. The ones I used are in the pictures attached.  The others I cut up and used for bends.  For $100 total investement in the headers and my time I made them fit in my 67 Dart 383 auto, manual steering, mini starter.  I do not know what make these are, the ones I cut up were cheap hooker headers.   The passenger side fit with no dings.  The drivers side, the only ding it has was it was closer to the torsion bar then I cared but it didn't warrant cutting out and putting a bent tube in there so I flattened that area out a little.   The rest of the interference areas on the drivers side I cut out and used bends from the hooker set.  I am pleased with them, and it beats paying $600 for a set of the TTI's

[flyboy01]

Update:

Here is my nemisis. The damn tie rod knuckle. Everything fit pretty well with these headers, but the pass side tie rod knuckle has me pulling the header out numerous times to clearance it. After the last clearancing, the idler arm clears fine, but the tie rod does not, I am going to try and clearance it one more time, but if this dont work and the pipe is too pinched, I am going to cut and reweld that tube.



What do you guys think of flipping the tie rod ends? The joint is on top, but it would clear better if it was below and the nut was on top. Any ideas if this is safe?




I also fitted the V/C and intake to the engine. Its clear that the air cleaner will not clear the opening in the hood as everything is just too tall, I am going to have to sell it and go with a K&N 11" filter top. I have a hole cut in the hood for the scoop, but this air cleaner is just too wide. The valve covers do clear the power brake booster (good because I wanted to keep the power brakes), and the blower moter for the ac box probably will not fit, but I am going to cover it up anyway, later I am going to add a Hotrod Air A/C and heater unit that will fit entireley under dash. Dont mind the colors of the block and heads, they are just for mock up, my other engine will be 68 Mopar turquoise.

[mopar_eric]

for your air cleaner you could probably go with a drop down base and smaller element and clear just fine. Mine is tight but with a solid mount on the driver side the motor doesn't move a bit.



Good luck, looking good man. My heddman's are beat up in all the same places. I'm leaving HP on the table but what the heck they fit.... ^_^

[tony GTS]

Whats the size and part # for those headmans?

[moparhunter]

This may be stupid question,I am in the same boat here i don't want to spend stupid amount of money on good headers so I was planning on going with the Headmans also,BUT with all the denting these take to fit  how much better are they then the Schumacher Tri-Y s I know these are Ok street headers(under 500 horse) but after all the denting are the Headmans not just as restictive? 

[Dartman1]

One thing you might want to try is modifying the frame plate for the gear box to hug all the way to the inner fender well. I did it to mine and with that my hedman headers should clear and not touch the gear box at all. I will try and get some photos.

[mark8denny]

I would change your steering setup for sure !!  My centerlink is made for the the tie rods to go in from the front of the car facing back to the rear (not up and down)and it gives much more clearance , and the pitman and idler arm both go into the centerlink from the bottom facing upward toward the roof of the car, more clearance.  I didn't have any steering issues at all.  Check the steering/suspension reference pages here and try a different centerlink and idler/pitman arm.