HOW TO GET RID OF E-BRAKE

[abqdart]

Ok, I have the C body rear drums. How d I get rid of the ebrake? Can I just lose the cable that runs in to the backing plate? I thought it was needed to keep pressure on that arm so they stayed adjusted. I will be going disk brake EVENTUALLY but not anytime too soon.

[west]

why not wai untill you get the discs to remove it?
remember saftey first

[bigtimeauto]

pull the drum, remove the e clip from the actuater lever, then remove the bar and rattle spring in between the 2 brakes shoes. after that you can slide a box end wrench down over the cable to compress the ears of the cable and it will pull right out of the backing plate.

[abqdart]

I have no problem taking the cable out of the back of the backing plate. It comes apart rather easy. I just thought it needed to be in place. My springs are relocated AND I have Homemade Cal-Tracs that will be going in. With a 10.5 inch back tire relocated springs AND cal-tracs LOTS of interference. The stuff comes apart easy, I just need to know whether or not the ebrake cable has any significance on my brakes working when I step on the pedal....Thanks guys

[bigtimeauto]

It will not affect the regualr brakes the e brake is a add on to a regualr drum system.

[abqdart]

So basicaly just remove it from the arm and slide the cable out of the backing plate and all will be fine.....OK I will do it. Thanks guys!

[abqdart]

Nice car by the way Tony! What front rims are you running with those headers? Are those Hooker Super comps in 2"?

[mopowers]

Just curious, why don't you want the e-brake?

[abqdart]

Just curious, why don't you want the e-brake?

I do want the E-Brakes....Right now the cable rubs on the inside of the back tire. I am having a bitch of a time coming up with a mounting point for the cable due to the springs being moved inboard AND having the Cal-Trac bars. I had it pretty much figured out UNTILL I decided to run the Cal-Tracs......It seems that NOBODY has springs relocated with Cal-Tracs AND still has E-Brakes......

[west]

can you show us a pic of how the cal tracs are in the way?
I may want them someday and Im courious how they look installed

[A13Dart]

So basicaly just remove it from the arm and slide the cable out of the backing plate and all will be fine.....OK I will do it. Thanks guys!

Wouldn't you have to remove the arm too?  Trying to remember how that goes together. 

[bigtimeauto]

pull the drum, remove the e clip from the actuater lever, then remove the bar and rattle spring in between the 2 brakes shoes. after that you can slide a box end wrench down over the cable to compress the ears of the cable and it will pull right out of the backing plate.

11 posts up.....

[A13Dart]

Ah, missed it.  Thanks bigtime.

[MyCreation68]

  sounds like you need a e brake system like my old machining teachers that he had on his anglia. he took an old snowmobile brake and made himself a disc brake out of a 1/8" thick piece of stainless steel and made it so it would mount onto the yoke of his 9 inch rear and not interfere with the u-joint and made a bracket to mount the brake on the axle housing. pretty slick e brake setup all cable mounted and it works great to. you should look into it a used snowmobile brake can be found for cheap and you might even find a wilwood caliper(they were used on a select few-which ones I have no idea)

[bigtimeauto]

sounds like you need a e brake system like my old machining teachers that he had on his anglia. he took an old snowmobile brake and made himself a disc brake out of a 1/8" thick piece of stainless steel and made it so it would mount onto the yoke of his 9 inch rear and not interfere with the u-joint and made a bracket to mount the brake on the axle housing. pretty slick e brake setup all cable mounted and it works great to. you should look into it a used snowmobile brake can be found for cheap and you might even find a wilwood caliper(they were used on a select few-which ones I have no idea)

You can buy this setup from most street rod places. We have even mounted alternators on there.

[MyCreation68]

sounds like you need a e brake system like my old machining teachers that he had on his anglia. he took an old snowmobile brake and made himself a disc brake out of a 1/8" thick piece of stainless steel and made it so it would mount onto the yoke of his 9 inch rear and not interfere with the u-joint and made a bracket to mount the brake on the axle housing. pretty slick e brake setup all cable mounted and it works great to. you should look into it a used snowmobile brake can be found for cheap and you might even find a wilwood caliper(they were used on a select few-which ones I have no idea)

You can buy this setup from most street rod places. We have even mounted alternators on there.

yep you can but my machining teacher made his for less then 50 bucks can one be bought for less then 50?

[bigtimeauto]

I doubt it since a rotor and caliper cost twice that. Not all people have the capability to fab up something up from scratch so we need to inform people of their options.

[MyCreation68]

I doubt it since a rotor and caliper cost twice that. Not all people have the capability to fab up something up from scratch so we need to inform people of their options.

Ican understand that but I'm not sure why it'd be all that hard to fab all my teacher did was use a die grinder to cut an opening so it didn't interfer with the u-joint and drilled 4 holes in the center of a round piece of stainless steel and welded a couple pieces of steel together to make a mount. I'm sure most drag racers fab stuff thats harder then that?

[smitty72]

not sure if this will help but here is a pic of mine moved in w/c- body brakes. I dont see how my cale could hit the tires

[abqdart]

Thanks dude. Yeah, I tried something like that already. Its because of my offset. I have 6 1/2" of it! I think I am going to have to go with a slightly longer ebrabe cable out of the back of the plate and then fab up some sort of "chingas" off the axle tube to keep it out of harms way........Thanks for all the responses guys.