Engine bay prep

[MVRCorp]

Better go back to harbor freight and buy one of these too 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search

[Ace]

Thanks for all the responses guys. 

Blasting is out of the question.  I had one, it sucked, I spend too much money on it to make it right, and it was never right.  I won't buy another one and I'm still cleaning media out of my garage.

I don't intend on taking it down to bare metal, as the surface has all the filler and what not from the factory, why remove it!?!?!?  All I want is something to clean the surface with so I can scuff and prep the engine bay to lay the new color down.

You guys rock, love all the responses.

Thanks,
Dustin

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

Better go back to harbor freight and buy one of these too 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search

Sorry, the item # is not a valid item? 

[MVRCorp]

Try this. Go to harbor freight web site and on the left under search item number type this "1118-6VGA".

[Ace]

FWIW I had two air driers on my blasting pot and one on the compressor, still didn't work out for me.

[75Dart440]

FWIW I had two air driers on my blasting pot and one on the compressor, still didn't work out for me.

To maximize the efficiency of moisture removal from the air lines you need to get the air cooled down quickly ahead of the drier/filter.  Grab an old AC condenser and plumb some air line fittings on to it and put at least 50 feet of air hose between it and the compressor.  Place the condenser somewhere where it can get cool air flowing over it or put a 20" fan in front of it.  This should cool the air enough to condense most of the water out of the air ahead of the filter.

A typical car or truck AC condenser should be good for about 150 psi of air pressure without blowing apart since most R134a systems see pressures as high as 180 at times.

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

Try this. Go to harbor freight web site and on the left under search item number type this "1118-6VGA".

Opened up box and it came with one. I see in your pictures you have the same red filter on yours. Did you buy the other one too (1118-6VGA) ? I already have a regulator at the compressor. Just got it all put together. I bought a sandblaster gun item # 92189  to save on blasting material it automatically shuts off when you release the handle.

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

Thanks for all the responses guys. 

Blasting is out of the question.  I had one, it sucked, I spend too much money on it to make it right, and it was never right.  I won't buy another one and I'm still cleaning media out of my garage.

I don't intend on taking it down to bare metal, as the surface has all the filler and what not from the factory, why remove it!?!?!?  All I want is something to clean the surface with so I can scuff and prep the engine bay to lay the new color down.

You guys rock, love all the responses.

Thanks,
Dustin

on the part about taking yours to bare metal. It is good shape plus that old paint is the best base you can start with. It has been there all these years so it will not go any where now. My engine bay is a lot different then yours. Someone cut out the inner fenders for headers. So I have to drill out all the spot welds to get old out. Then reweld new ones in . So I figure I will need all of the paint off these areas to have a good clean welding surface. So I will go ahead and to the entire engine bay including k-frame, rad. core support, firewall and frame rails. The new inner fenders I bought are already down to bare metal and ready to go.

[MVRCorp]

Opened up box and it came with one. I see in your pictures you have the same red filter on yours. Did you buy the other one too (1118-6VGA) ? Yes, I have PVC run all around the garage with about 8 disconnects.
I already have a regulator at the compressor. No regulator on my compressor and the blasting cabinet is right next to it. I guess we're lucky in Co. as the humidity is so low. I've never had a moisture problem. The blast cabinet I run full pressure on and then use the 1118-06VGA downstream.
Just got it all put together. I bought a sandblaster gun item # 92189  to save on blasting material it automatically shuts off when you release the handle. That's a good idea.

A couple of pics..........2nd one you can see the exhaust fan between the compressor and cabinet. We use these radon fans here to exhaust radon gas from the basements. I have it hooked up from the cabinet and dumps outside via a dryer vent. It does a good job creating negitive air and keeps the garage clear of glass dust.

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

Hell yes thats a nice setup. You have a real compressor and a blasting cabinet also. I like the use of PVC thats what my buddy did in his garage he has a big compressor in the basement of the house. Then in the garage he has the blasting cabinet and paint booth. His neighbors were calling the police on him all of the time saying he was running a business out of his garage.So thats why he put the compressor in the house. So when he was blasting or painting they could not hear the compressor running. Now your making me jealous. I will buy one of those 1118-06VGA For downstream also and take the reg. off of my compressor. Yeah we have high humidty here so I will have to choose the best times to use it. It was cheap so what the hell. It would of cost me 26 dollars a day to rent one again. So I have around 80 bucks in this one. If it does the whole engine bay for that 80 bucks I will be happy. Thank You for all the help and suggestions.

[Ace]

FWIW I had two air driers on my blasting pot and one on the compressor, still didn't work out for me.

To maximize the efficiency of moisture removal from the air lines you need to get the air cooled down quickly ahead of the drier/filter.  Grab an old AC condenser and plumb some air line fittings on to it and put at least 50 feet of air hose between it and the compressor.  Place the condenser somewhere where it can get cool air flowing over it or put a 20" fan in front of it.  This should cool the air enough to condense most of the water out of the air ahead of the filter.

A typical car or truck AC condenser should be good for about 150 psi of air pressure without blowing apart since most R134a systems see pressures as high as 180 at times.

Thanks for the tip, I'm not running out trying this and possibly wasting money again to sand blast stuff here again.  Too sour a taste in my mouth, and I have hook ups for blasting if needed.  My engine bay doesn't need it IMO.