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Topic: YAC (Yet another combo) question (Read 1116 times)
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dusterdarryl
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fastcars is right, your going to have trouble keeping out of the nines, should be good fun, whats the pistons part # you have? sounds like a weapon
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Logged
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Shift as hard as you like, just dont break your arm... (George Hurst)
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ab7fh
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440Source part # 7000 "Platinum Series Pistons 4.375 +14 Domed"
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ab7fh
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A couple more questions... What would you recommend for a cam gear drive, and a harmonic balancer?? There's so many choices  |
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fasttcars
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that crane cam would still be a good choice...milodon gear drives are very nice...ati dampners are the best
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ab7fh
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When I ordered my pan and oil system I told them was going to be running a girdle. They told me I don't need a windage tray with a deep pan and girdle. What are your thoughts on this?
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ab7fh
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From Crane's website:
"MODERATE COMPETITION ONLY, GOOD UPPER RPM TORQUE AND HP, BRACKET RACING, AUTO TRANS W/RACE CONVERTER, 12.0 MINIMUM COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 4400-7400"
I imagine the cam will have a lower bottom end range do to the big cubic inch motor? What kind of a stall speed would I be looking for for this cam? I had previously heard I wanted something about 3800 with gears in the 3.90 - 4.10 range using 29" tires.
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fasttcars
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ya the rpm range will be lower with more cid..it should make it's peak power at about 6300 rpm. ..a 3800 stall would work great to...the engine should make a bunch over 600ftlbs of torque so your also gona have to make sure the chassis is finely tuned
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ab7fh
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I've already got Caltrac bars and springs. I've widened the wheel wells and have a spring relocation kit just waiting installation. I'll be using the stock K member with engine mounts cut out and a motor plate. Stock lower control arms, tubular uppers... Even though I'm shooting for 10s, I'm going to have a full cage which will help keep the chassis under control and consistent.
I just scored a D-60 housing on Monday. It came from a van and it has extra gussets on the pumpkin. That will be narrowed as needed.
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ab7fh
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Another twist... I priced out all of the machine operations I want done to a my stock low deck block. It came out to about $2000. I looked at Indy's low deck block which they want $3500 for. Add $800 to the stock block for a girdle and billet mains and we're getting really close to the cost of a new aluminum block with cross bolted billet mains "stock", sleeved cylinders etc...
Am I missing anything? Has anyone heard good or bad about the Indy blocks?
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ksdartguy
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There was a post back a ways on Indy and KB blocks.
Id lean toward the KB. They make it in a low deck height and
I think you get a better finished product.
Ask speedy. Hes got an RB version of the KB.
Rick
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Logged
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69 Swinger,3.54 Dana, 400/499, Stealth heads, Crower 262/266d, .686/.696L roller,11 to 1, 950 Bigs, E85 carb.
Best so far, 10.82 @ 124mph through the mufflers.
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illfish
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I'd go with either KB or one of the new World/Dart?/Barton blocks. I've got INDY and my buddy has KB. The INDY block was a mess. Had to rehone, redeck, clearance everywhere, etc.
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ab7fh
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I just called KB and they don't make a low deck with 400 main bearing size:( Since I've already got my crank I'm screwed on that one... Indy advertises that they offer both 400 and 440 sized mains in their block.
I'll have to take a look at the others to see if they have a low deck with 400 mains.
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ab7fh
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Ray Barton and World show only RBs on their websites:( Dart's site says they only make Chevy, Ford and Honda stuff...
This isn't looking too good...
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ab7fh
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Ok. I purchased the Crane 688811 roller cam with it's recommended springs and retainers, valve locks and Teflon seals.
Next up is a set of rocker arms. I am leaning towards Harland Sharp. Any others in the same price range that are worth considering??
What do you think of the Milodon cam gear drive? Any others I should be looking at instead?
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ab7fh
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Well, I decided on Hugh's rocker arms.
Still looking for info about the Milodon or other cam gear drives.
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pwmax
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If you don;t have the Stealths already, then I would recomend using Indy EZ's, you will be MUCH happier in the long run. The Ez's will make more power with mild work, then a fully hogged on Stealth, and you don;t have to worry about a crappy heat treat.
Frank
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ab7fh
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I've already got the Stealth heads. I'm also not interested in over shooting my goal of a 10 sec car. Not interested in certifications, licensing and all that's needed to run a sub 10sec car.
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