Brakebleeding?

[topchopvalle]

My -65 Valiant has been sitting for a while.
So I blow the old brakefluid out of the whole system. Filled the MC whith fresh fluid and tried to bleed . But iI cant get the MC to start pummping! How do I do?

[jbarker]

You need to benchbleed the MC.  Contradictory to the name, this can actually be done more easily with the mc in the car.  You basically need to disconnect the lines from the mc and fashion some new ones that go directly from the side ports of mc into the top of it.  They sell little plastic fittings and rubber hose at the parts store to accomplish this.  It's called a bench bleeding kit.  The ends of your new, tempory lines need to be completely submerged in the fluid in the mc reservoir.  Slowly pump the brake pedal several times until no more bubbles come out.  Then you can hook up the original lines like it was before and bleed the lines one at a time.  Hope this makes sense.  Good luck.
-Jay

[68_Val_Sedan]

make sure the pedal comes ALL the way back up each time.  the pedal has to come all the way back up for the fluid to get past the piston and pump it down the line ...

[IL.DART340- 4SP]

You need to benchbleed the MC.  Contradictory to the name, this can actually be done more easily with the mc in the car.  You basically need to disconnect the lines from the mc and fashion some new ones that go directly from the side ports of mc into the top of it.  They sell little plastic fittings and rubber hose at the parts store to accomplish this.  It's called a bench bleeding kit.  The ends of your new, tempory lines need to be completely submerged in the fluid in the mc reservoir.  Slowly pump the brake pedal several times until no more bubbles come out.  Then you can hook up the original lines like it was before and bleed the lines one at a time.  Hope this makes sense.  Good luck.
-Jay

Bleed one line at a time. Start at Pass. side rear then dr. side rear then pass. side front and last dr. side front. Gravity bleed will show that air is all out.

[4spdfury]

where do you get brake oil

[MoPar_or _NoCar]

It's next to the muffler bearings.

[harryhood]

I thought it was next to the headlight fluid

[68 HEMI GTS]

thats blinker fluid! geeezz don't you guys know anything!! 

[67 dartgts]

Hello:
  Be surre you get Blinker fluid for your temerature zone.   Mine froze up and broke the rear main outside mirror seal.
 
                Maynard

[Mopar Tom]

Is that on the left side or right side after you turn up the 1st aisle ? ----------------Mopar Tom

[PureGTS]

With a little enginuity you can make a bleeder bottle out of any 20 oz or larger bottle and some washer hose. 2-3 ft of washer hose, that just fits over the bleeder valve, goes into the bottle (through its cap not just into the open hole) all the way to the bottom. As long as the Master cylinder's cap/lid is loose and the recovery bottle's hose is below the fluid level, you can bleed your own brakes without having two poeple doing the "open-close" dance. Just don't mash the pedal and blow the hose off, go slowly and methodically and check your master's fluid level once in a while and you'll do fine. If you can remove the hose and nothing dribbles out of the bleeder there is still air in the system. Done right the system will gravity bleed showing you there is no air in that line. Go to the next and repeat.

[Winter]

     I found that clear tubing in a 16oz. capped bottle lets you see the air and color of the fluid, also you can route the hose over and down to keep air out

[thecarfarmer]

I have a vacuum bleeder, but I really found it more useful for doing 'maintenance' flushes, where I wasn't trying to get air out of the system, but just replacing old fluid.  It does work for pulling fluid thru an empty system (and I often start with pulling thru w/ my vac bleeder), but I prefer the manual method because I can see that there are no bubbles when I'm done.

I'll jump on the 'bench bleed' bandwagon.  It'll make your life a lot easier.  You can tell when the bench bleed is done by having someone step on the brakes and cracking the fittings at the M/C a tiny bit.  Do it with a rag over the wrench, so fluid doesn't fly all over and destroy paint.  Or do it yourself by wedging a big prybar or stick between the front of the lower seat cushion and the pedal.

What I do after that is to use a clear hose (so I can see what's going on) into a container on the floor attached to one of the front brakes' bleeders.  I open the bleeder, and stroke the pedal slowly.  When bubbles quit coming out, it's bled.  One wheel down; three to go.

Yes, the fluid will go back up the hose a ways when you let up on the brake pedal, but nowhere near as quick as it comes out.  Works real well; doesn't take a second person.  I kneel on the ground next to the open driver's door and stroke the pedal by hand while looking under the car at the hose.  Just don't let the reservoir on the M/C run dry (don't ask how I know).

-bill

[NYrr496]

I have these tools that work fantastic for "reverse filling" brake systems. They're these big syringes that you fill with brake fluid. I remove the bleeder screw completely and force the rubber cone against the caliper or wheel cylinder. I empty the contents into the caliper and it backfeeds all the way to the master cylinder. Huge time saver. Only problem is I bought them from the Snap On man many years ago and I've never seen them again. I would love to get a new set.