torsion bars

[dbcollector]

what is the deal with the torsion bars from a 6 to a v8 car?? not real familer with this

[Jim_Lusk]

Torsion bars came in different sizes and generally speaking the weight over the front end dictated which came on the car. There were four sizes from the factory:
.830 /6 only
.850 two barrel small block
.870 Handling package /6 and small block, stock with 340
.890 383/440

Many people have used the /6 bars in drag applications because of better weight transfer, but I wouldn't drive a /6 car on the street with /6 bars......... I want the car to handle better than that.

[dbcollector]

are they interchangable or do you have to major mod to get the bigger ones to fit and how hard are they to take out

[tony GTS]

I've got /6 bars on my 440 swinger & it handles fine.

[jbarker]

are they interchangable or do you have to major mod to get the bigger ones to fit and how hard are they to take out

All A-body sway bars are interchangable.  They're not tough to take out.  Raise front of car up, let front wheels hang, fully loosen torsion bar adjuster bolts located at front of torsion bar, remove retainer clip at rear of torsion bar, pound torsion bar out towards rear of car.

[Jim_Lusk]

I've got /6 bars on my 440 swinger & it handles fine.

I can guarantee that I wouldn't think it handled fine........... I didn't like my old 67 fastback with no sway bar and .850 torsion bars.

[chryco]

Loosens up the front suspension FOR DRAGRACING ONLY .

[73swinger]

I've got /6 bars on my 440 swinger & it handles fine.

obviously you haven't hit any whoopdeedoos at high speed. I did it with /6 bars and smacked my oilpan off the ground. running .920s now...problem solved

[blasphemous]

It would seem to me that a thicker bar would promote better weight transfer.  The heavier bar keeping more stored energy pressing down on the front end as opposed to a lighter bar.  Or is it because the thicker bars prohibit the front suspension from lifting as high as it would with /6 bars?  I'm trying to understand the Mopar suspension setup.  I'm a n00b here and trying to take in all the knowledge I can.

[Jim_Lusk]

Consider that lift rate has a lot to do with weight transfer. If the front end is off the ground ALL of the weight is on the rear tires. The lighter the bars the quicker the front can lift. I suspect, though, that with all the rear suspension improvements over the last thirty years that it is less of an issue today, but what do I know? I've always built my cars to handle well and for drag racing.

[flyboy01]

Torsion bars came in different sizes and generally speaking the weight over the front end dictated which came on the car. There were four sizes from the factory:
.830 /6 only
.850 two barrel small block
.870 Handling package /6 and small block, stock with 340
.890 383/440

Many people have used the /6 bars in drag applications because of better weight transfer, but I wouldn't drive a /6 car on the street with /6 bars......... I want the car to handle better than that.

I thought the 70+ 318cu A/C cars also came with .890 bars, or was it .870?

[Jim_Lusk]

No, the .890s were big block only. The ac cars got the "340" bars.

[blasphemous]

Consider that lift rate has a lot to do with weight transfer. If the front end is off the ground ALL of the weight is on the rear tires. The lighter the bars the quicker the front can lift. I suspect, though, that with all the rear suspension improvements over the last thirty years that it is less of an issue today, but what do I know? I've always built my cars to handle well and for drag racing.

I understand the REASON for wanting weight transfer.  I just don't fully understand how torsion bars work.  A lighter bar will give less resistance to the upwards travel of the front end?

[7173Duster]

With a heavier torsion bar you twist it less to support the front of the car so there is less "stored energy".  When you launch on the strip the heavier bar quickly unloads.  With a smaller bar it is twisted more to support the front of the car so it releases it's "stored energy" for a longer period of time.  This is how it was explained to me.  My car worked reasonably well, repeated 60 foot times within 3 hundredths, with 890 bars but I am switching to the .810 to try and get a little better transfer and to pull minimal weight off the front end.

[blasphemous]

Now that makes sense to me.  I was thinking of it in reverse, thanks!

[7173Duster]

Your welcome.  Glad I could help.

[62BT409]

Would someone have a picture of the torsion bar, so an idiot like me knows what I am looking at. I would like to lift the front end to get the exhaust further of the ground and some what level the car out. The when I get it to the garage/shop we can make final adjustments and repairs.

[jbarker]

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.arengineering.com/articles/Image17.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.arengineering.com/articles/tbartango.html&h=960&w=1280&sz=363&hl=en&start=107&tbnid=RKC1BNpql6m9ZM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmopar%2Ba%2Bbody%2Bfront%2Bsuspension%26start%3D90%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN
Check out the above link.  There are 3 long black bars in the picture.  Obviously 1 is the steering column.  The other 2 are torsion bars.  They are adjsuted with a bolt at the front end of the torsion bar, which is actually located in the lower control arm.  Turning bolt clockwise will raise the car.  Do adjustments with wheels OFF the ground.
-Jay

[62BT409]

I did a least find out that they .920 torsion bars. Have not had time yet to try any adjusting

[62BT409]

OK, I have here 2 pictures. Tell which one has the arrow pointing to the nut that is turned to raise or lower the torsion bars. Let's see if I can get both up
Thanks
JB

Hey that was very easy

[jbarker]

First picture is the one.

[62BT409]

Thank You

[blasphemous]

A bit off topic, but in response to those pictures...
What kind of car is that?  I have a 73 Scamp and the steering set up doesn't look like that.  I have power steering, is that a manual setup?

[62BT409]

the first picture on top is a 68 Dart
the second picture on the bottom is a 71 Demon

[jackie]

remember,do not swap them  around. put the right on the right,and the left on the left..

[rokketride]

A bit off topic, but in response to those pictures...
What kind of car is that?  I have a 73 Scamp and the steering set up doesn't look like that.  I have power steering, is that a manual setup?

Up to 72 the steering centerlink is "above" the pitman and idler arms and the studs go in from underneath.

73 and on the centerlink is "below" the pitman and idler and their studs drop in from the top.

That might be the appearance difference you are noticing in those pics to your car.

[Michael Deakin]

I did lots of things to improve my 60 ft times, in the end i changed the 340 torsion bars for 6cyl and the car went from 1.75  to 1.62 60 ft but saying that, the car handled very well on the road with the 340 bars.
Mike

[blasphemous]

If it's primarily a drag car, then the gain is worth it IMO.

[7173Duster]

I did lots of things to improve my 60 ft times, in the end i changed the 340 torsion bars for 6cyl and the car went from 1.75  to 1.62 60 ft but saying that, the car handled very well on the road with the 340 bars.
Mike

Did you make any other changes when you got that large of a drop?  I only ask because I am putting in .810 bars in the next couple of weeks, I would love to drop a tenth out of my 60 foot.

[hemi62valiant]

what would 990's or 1040's do in a street car?

[mshred]

I currently have a /6 car and am going to put a 340 in it...it will be primarily a street car but i will definatly want it to have some track time....would the /6 bars because of their weight dynamics with the 340 be unsafe on the street? when you guys talk about the car handling not very well, do you mean that the front lifts alot, or that the car is difficult to steer? this might sound dumb but this thread has now got me thinking about something i never even thought of yet

[fishy68]

I currently have a /6 car and am going to put a 340 in it...it will be primarily a street car but i will definatly want it to have some track time....would the /6 bars because of their weight dynamics with the 340 be unsafe on the street? when you guys talk about the car handling not very well, do you mean that the front lifts alot, or that the car is difficult to steer? this might sound dumb but this thread has now got me thinking about something i never even thought of yet

You'll probably just get allot of body roll when cornering with the /6 bars. With stiffer bars it reduces the body roll.

[Jim_Lusk]

The slant bars will give a lot of roll inthe corners and too much of a soft, bouncy ride. You need bigger bars for a well balanced street car AND, at least, a front sway bar. Then there's tires, etc.

[cu440da]

what would 990's or 1040's do in a street car?

Make your ride stiffer, corner flatter. I have 1.04's in mine, I don't think my shocks even get a chance to do their job. Stiff. Once I get my steering box fixed so I can control it I'll be able to get a better feel for them but I think they'll be okay.

[mshred]

The slant bars will give a lot of roll inthe corners and too much of a soft, bouncy ride. You need bigger bars for a well balanced street car AND, at least, a front sway bar. Then there's tires, etc.

well as long as the ride wont be dangerous for the street then im keeping the /6 bars...if they'll improve my 60 ft times, then thats an extra bonus too

[Jim_Lusk]

Dangerous is in the interpretation. It will not be stable in the corners, but to each his own. In my opinion any car regularly driven on the street needs to have the suspension and brakes for superior handling first. Everything else, including horsepower is secondary.