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Topic: Help building subframe connectors (Read 1566 times)
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MoPar_or _NoCar
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63' Dart GT 225/904/7.25 but totaly original =Black w/Red int. 68' Dart Soon to be 383! 70' Challenger 440 / 727 / 8.75w3.23 suregrip 80% complete 93' Shadow ES Daily Driver 97' 1500 318 4X4 Chipped and breathes good 08' Avenger R/T Family Sedan
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smallbigblock
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SMALLBIGBLOCK, Did you do your subframes yet? with the car torn apart? Did you weld in a twisted body ![\/][](http://www.bigblockdart.com/Smileys/classic/finger020.gif) No I haven't built them yet. I'm still thinking about it.
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I should have left it alone
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BIG DOG
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I ran a piece of tubing across the front just in front of the torsion bar crossmember.And the same at the back just in front of where the front spring hangers would be .But my car is totaly bare so I don't think it would be the same as a car with all it's components on.I would it up at a couple of place s and see how the doors work in that position .If i was happy with it that's where I would weld the connectors in at.With my car loaded and the jacks where I said above the doors worked perfect.I read on here somewhere that someone had their car on a rotisserie and flipped it with a laser on it and it never changed .Probably due to the fact that the car has quite a bit of stuctural strength and with out all the components to weigh it down it would say pretty much in line.They really don't weigh that much I have moved mine down on my rotisserie by myself one pin hole .I wouldn't do it again and I don't recomend it ......FU%$kin heavy but not much for the structure of the car I don't believe.
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Who talked me into this Big Block Dart thing any way  I know who you are ! Some of the dumbest people I know.......know everything .........Funny about that!
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krabysniper
Full Member
 
Offline
Posts: 135
BigBlockDart.Com
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Ok on that subject... where should you support the car while you are welding them? If you put the jackstands under the subframe channel then weld, the doors may or may not open/close, but if you leave the weight is on the tires, then you may be welding in a permenant sag in the middle... I sure am glad this thread came up before i started welding mine.  I did mine in a 2 post hoist bay, I used the hoist to first hold the bars up in place and tacked front, then to apply ever so SLIGHT pressure to the under side of bars to push them up as far as I could without actually lifting on the car (ok, so I let it lift it EVER so slightly, but that was because I was trying to get rid of about 35 years of sag in the chasis), I also did not cut into the floor pans for mine, I let them hang low in back just a touch so I wouldnt have to, but it will most certainly improve overall strength and rigidity if you do. I would most certainly look at getting an alilgnment after installation, just as a good tire protection policy.
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abqdart
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I installed mine with tha car resting on its own weight. It was on cement bolcks so I could get under it easily. With that said I TRIPLE checked the car for straightness. From what I have been told and from what I have seen it doesnt matter if your car is standing on its nose AS LONG as what your car is straight BEFORE you start welding in the subframe connectors and you dont induce anything to make it NOT straight.. I did mine ONE SIDE at a time and its just as straight and even as it was before I did it. In my opinion, if you know your car is straight then it does not matter what position your car is in when you weld them in.
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Rio Rancho N.M 87144
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magart
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Beer in one hand, wrenches in the other.
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ab7fh
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Paulaner Salvator  Weak! Stone Brewery's Arrogant Bastard is the only way to go. And Double Bastard will put you away:D
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