Is flipping Tie-rod ends safe?

[flyboy01]

I am fitting my headers and I had an idea. What do you guys think of flipping the tie rod ends? On the 73+ K frame, the joint is on top of the drag link, but it would clear the headers better if it was below and the nut was on top. Any ideas if this is safe?

[Cpt Panzer]

no it cant be . the stud is tapered and fits in a tapered hole. I don't think you would get it far enough thru the hole to get a nut on it.

[flyboy01]

OK, I did not realize that. WHat about flipping the whole drag link over?

[Bill_Reilly]

Even if you made a drag link with opposite holes, the pivot point is in the joint - moving the joint 2" down would cause giant amounts of bumpsteer - it'd be impossible to drive.

[flyboy01]

Does everyone always have to spoil my ideas with facts?   

[Bill_Reilly]

Happens to me every day

[nothingbutdarts]

                

[b569rr]

One more piece of bad news. When I installed my 2" primary TTI's, they cleared everything, no denting required. 

[gt]

 

gt

[jamesdart]

i once thought about converting to the newer steering setup and when i looked at it, i had my doubts it would help at all with header clearance.

[redfastback]

i believe the 72-earlier draglinks have them in from the bottom.  you just get the appropriate center lnk, pitman idler, and tie rods.  that could add up real fast though.

[Bill_Reilly]

The pivots are in from the bottom on the older steering, but the pivot point is still in the same place, putting the rest of the parts higher in the car, so that wouldn't help any.
..He's basically forced the cut the headers...

[68_Val_Sedan]

One more piece of bad news. When I installed my 2" primary TTI's, they cleared everything, no denting required. 

That's because some one else already put a whooping    on them for you ...

[dangerdawg]

Does everyone always have to spoil my ideas with facts?

                                                                                                                                         

Happens to me every day

                                                                                                                                                    i belong to the southwest chapter of that school.

[flyboy01]

I have an early model steering box coming my way, and I just put a bid on a set of tie rods and an early dropped drag link on ebay, so I might just need the idler arm now. I have to see how it all fits when I get it all.

[mopowers]

I have an early model steering box coming my way, and I just put a bid on a set of tie rods and an early dropped drag link on ebay, so I might just need the idler arm now. I have to see how it all fits when I get it all.

Don't you just love the snowball effect?

[nightrider]

What K frame/mounts are you using? you could shim the motor up to clear without dinging, mind you you may have hood clearance issues after that...

[flyboy01]

I have a 73+ V8 k-frame with schumaker mounts, even if I got it higher, it causes other problems on the drivers side. But the real issue is that I was not able to find a 73+ large sector steering box, so I bought an earlier box, now I have to change the links and idler.  I was F**'d either way.

[flyboy01]

I have an early model steering box coming my way, and I just put a bid on a set of tie rods and an early dropped drag link on ebay, so I might just need the idler arm now. I have to see how it all fits when I get it all.

Don't you just love the snowball effect?

Back about a year ago, I named my car SNOWBALL!    

[thecarfarmer]

no it cant be . the stud is tapered and fits in a tapered hole. I don't think you would get it far enough thru the hole to get a nut on it.

What about tapering the holes halfway in from each side?  I've seen it on aftermarket street rod stuff.  Speedway sells reamers...

-bill

[Cpt Panzer]

no it cant be . the stud is tapered and fits in a tapered hole. I don't think you would get it far enough thru the hole to get a nut on it.

What about tapering the holes halfway in from each side? I've seen it on aftermarket street rod stuff. Speedway sells reamers...

-bill

I would never trust it. you are going to remove a lot of material from a nearly 40 year old part . also the side you would then put the nut on would have a hollow space under it, and around the stud. you would need to use a heavy washer to keep the nut from eventually working its way down inside the hollow spot . just does not seem like a safe proposition . imo  if you can't trust it at the track at over 100mph under controled conditions ,,,, you can't trust it on the road  under any condition.  I would look at another set up before I would try to modify original hardware..  what about a rack and pinion or try to set up somthing with heim joints ?

[flyboy01]

I already have the box, got an early drag link coming, now I just need the idler.

[sst3193]

A friend broke out the welder and got to work putting a Mustang steering rack on his '70 Cuda dragcar K-member. Found that after he was finished the car had about a 100 ft turning circle. He had tons of clearence in the engine compartment but, nearly wore out the transbrake to get the car around the end of the staging lanes. There may be longer throw racks out there now but, I'm sure they are mostly power setups.
I was just on TTi's website and they suggest slotting the motor mount holes 1/2 inch to the rear.

[flyboy01]

no it cant be . the stud is tapered and fits in a tapered hole. I don't think you would get it far enough thru the hole to get a nut on it.

What about tapering the holes halfway in from each side?  I've seen it on aftermarket street rod stuff.  Speedway sells reamers...

-bill

I just saw those last night. Might think about it if the current plan does not work out.