LCA rebuilding? what has worked for other?

[Nitrous340dart]

I been kind of himming and hawing about how to rebuild the LCA.  Is it better to run a poly bushing or just get a stocker.  How are you guys getting the outer sleeve of the LCA.  With a poly bushing do you leave the outter sleeve in and cut the inner sleeve off the pivot stud/bolt thing? Do the poly bushing really squeak as bad as some say?
Thanks

[hemi_jay]

Well I got the Energy suspension Total control Poly kit. If you use generous amounts of the (very sticky) grease thats included, you wont have squeeks for some time. I would advise you to rather buy poly-graphite bushings, they are impregnated with graphite powder which means they lubricate themselves. No need for assembly grease even. I used a bench vise and a socket on the one side, then used a big steel dowel to press that sucker out. Its a bit of  a pain without the right tools, which you can get from www.justsuspension.com

[Jim_Lusk]

Most will recommend not using poly on the LCAs because they will have the possibility of movement on the bushing. The poly bushings use BOTH steel sleeves from the original bushings.

As for getting the outer sleeve out. The best thing I have found is to weld a large washer to the inside of the sleeve and press it out. For the inner sleeve I stretch it with a vice and large hammer. Close the jaws of the vice so that the pin and sleeve will sit on top with about 1/3 of the diameter between the jaws. Start hitting and rotating. It won't take long before the sleeve will slide right off.

[b569rr]

Most will recommend not using poly on the LCAs because they will have the possibility of movement on the bushing. The poly bushings use BOTH steel sleeves from the original bushings.

I have heard this also. I run poly bushings everywhere with O.E rubber on the LCA

[Nitrous340dart]

what do you mean movement?  Movement in a rotating way or sliding back/forth effecting alignment?

Thanks

[Jim_Lusk]

Sliding back and forth.

[Two Lane]

We use the Del-A-Lum bushings, available from [b][Global West/b], and also from Year One.

Free and "bindless" movement, zero deflection, and no squeaking.


HTH ------   

[NYrr496]

The ONLY time i've ever had a poly bushing squeak was when I used the factory cupped washers on a Trans Am.  I swapped them to flats and no more noise. Use that silicone grease that comes with them, too. I used polys in my Charger, loved them, Have them in my Yukon, love em, The only place they suck is in the strut rod bushings. I would use Bill's parts, that should eliminate any binding and really make the poly LCA bushings operate properly.

[valiant171]

Getting the "race" out is the hardest part.  I agree with Jim I welded a washer on the exposed lip and welded it good.  The bigger washer the better.
Dont be afraid of splatter on the control arm it will grind out and is not that big of a deal, that was my biggest fear, but the bushing really takes up the slop.  Now you will have to put a socket or whatever in the hole from ripping, burning or gnawing out the old rubber and pin, save the pin.  I pressed out my pin then got the rubber out with a screw driver.  Belive it or not the sleeve "race" did not pusth out that bad. ( a good steady hand and hammer could of gotten mine out, but you will need to press the new one in)

I would go with rubber for the new one for the afforementioned reasons, if you are worried about slop in your ride get good conrol arms and links.  There a lot of write ups on this via any mopar magazine.   They really helped me.   

Not to scare you away but this is one of the hardest  things you can attempt to do on an old dodge or plymouth, but try it and once you get it done you can pretty much fix anything.  

[NYrr496]

It's been a while, but I think I burned the rubber bushings out of my lowers and then glass beaded them. You'd never know they were all blackened.

[fourspeed]

If you try welding a washer, weld it good. Mine tore off, so I took a sawzall to it. http://www.fourbarrel.com/lcabushings.html