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Topic: What the heck anti freeze leak? Help (Read 364 times)
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warthog
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O.k. Guys you all are probably sick of seeing all my post since my  was started that weekend. But I went out to the garage tonight and noticed two small puddles of antifreeze under the car at the back of the motor. I looked for a while and from what I can tell it was seeping out of each rear cylinder on both sides under the headers. I can only assume that antifreeze is seeping thru the header bolts? I thought the header bolts were pretty tight but I did get them to turn some. Is this something that you guys have experienced? I need some input here. I am kind of freeking out that it something serious but since I have never had a car with headers I figure this might be the problem.  ?? |
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Plymouthfan
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 35
BigBlockDart.Com
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Did you put a sealant on the bolts first?
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MVRCorp
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What's the engine?  |
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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cu440da
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Header bolts will tend to loosen as they go through a few heat cycles. Sealant is always good insurance to make sure they don't leak.
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'67 Notchback- 12.85 @ 109mph
440, M1, modified 750 Holley, .509 cam, template ported 906's, ProParts, 3" x-piped mandrel bent exhaust, Spintech's, 4.10 Sure Grip, 3200 stall, CalTracs and mono's, RR hood bulge fresh air system
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harryhood
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 89
72scamp.com
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I've had the same thing happen a couple of times as well. A little sealant and elbow grease and the leak goes away.
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warthog
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Sorry its a 383, No I didn't know you had to but sealant on those bolts (INSERT warthog is a DUMB ASS). Just some RTV sealant? Thanks for the quick replys.
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JohnnyfromChicago
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I used anti-seize on mine and it worked, but I think everyone else uses rtv. The first time mine leaked, I got lucky and just enough rust formed to stop the leaks without having to take them out.
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chryco
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I used teflon tape , not messy to work with and will take the thermal cycling better. Not just for pipe threads ! Chryco  |
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Hemi Darts Rule !!!!!
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blown71duster
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You could always try a bottle of bars leak first, It will seal that type of leak if it isnt real bad
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1971 Duster 440 Single turbo
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acpat
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bars leak plugs up leaks and the radiator. Leave the can of rat turds alone
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67Dart383
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If you don't know, which might be the case since you didn't use a sealant on your bolts! When you pull a header bolt out, your antifreeze is going to come out behine it' So you might want to drain the block before removing header bolts! Good Luck!
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67 Dart 383 MP590, Crane 1.6 R/R, headers, 906, 850 MIghty Demon, Performer RPM, 3inch exhausts, 727 R/M, 9.5 PTC 4500 flash stall w/ 2800 brake stall, 8 3/4 rear with P/T 4.30, on MT ET St Rad 11.77@112.97mph  |
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dodgeboy
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 93
BigBlockDart.Com
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The problem you have is nothing serious. I had the same problem with mine. Stopped the leak with a product I believe (not sure) was called alumaseal. Experienced parts people will know it when you describe it to them, it is an aluminum based powder that comes in a clear plastic cylinder with a pop off cap. I have used this product before and never experienced it causing any cooling system problems.
Roger
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blown71duster
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bars leak plugs up leaks and the radiator. Leave the can of rat turds alone
No, bars is safe to use and will not plug radiator or heater cores , we have used it in our shop for years and have used it for header bolt coolant leaks,perfect for that kind of leak It is factory installed, including chrysler.. http://www.barsleaks.net/barsstory.html |
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1971 Duster 440 Single turbo
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doug 371
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its just a header bolt leak...no need to pour smag in there...  |
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CudaSRT8
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Both end bolt holes on big block heads go into the water jackets. No need to put additives into your nice, new cooling system. Replace the end bolts with studs and nuts. Use a thread sealant and they won't leak. The studs also help when you're putting the headers and gaskets on...
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My Mopars:
'69 Cuda SRT8 6.1 Hemi
'78 Lil Red Express (5.7 Hemi crate waitng to go in it)
'05 Ram "GoManGo" 5.7 Hemi Daytona
'05 Jeep Grand Chickeree 4.7
"3 Hemis, no waiting!"
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Dart Guy UK
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 25
BigBlockDart.Com
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Both end bolt holes on big block heads go into the water jackets. No need to put additives into your nice, new cooling system. Replace the end bolts with studs with nuts. Use a sealant and they won't leak. The studs also help when you're going putting the headers and gaskets on...
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Under constuction
1968 Dart Pro street 2dr sedan
440 11.5-, iron koffel max ported heads, crower hyd 530 cam, fenderwells, JW 4200 converter,4 link 8 3/4 4.56 gear with spool & 31x 18.5-15 out back
It will be street leagal and gas is over $10 a gallon
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NYrr496
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Both end bolt holes on big block heads go into the water jackets. No need to put additives into your nice, new cooling system. Replace the end bolts with studs with nuts. Use a sealant and they won't leak. The studs also help when you're going putting the headers and gaskets on...
I'm pretty sure that's what I used to do. |
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It takes a Mopar to catch a Mopar.
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kudah440
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using the studs for the 4 corners is good if you have room in your eng bay, but with a bick block sealant has turned out to be better for me in the past. Nothing like trying to pull the headers off around those studs and not having enough room to get them out...  do watch out for the shooting of water if you pull the bolts though. |
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Jeremy
69 BCuda 383
71 Duster 440
74 Scamp 340
All in differing states relative to my state of mind
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abqdart
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Hey WARTHOG....Stop being a DumbAss!!! JUST KIDDING! No really!! Im just messing with ya! Sorta.......  |
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Rio Rancho N.M 87144
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